Help!!!!!

RED-ONE

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Red 2003 Mazda Pro5
OK here it is, just got done hooking up my rca splitter to the back of my stock headunit, and ran all the wires according to the diagram and got a problem.
Everytime I turn the volume up the amp kicks off and I have no bass.
If I turn the volume back down again the bass comes back, I tried turning the amp down and adjusting the rca converter to lowest settings but it still does the same thing. Anbody else run into this problem. Somebody please help.
 
help

It is a 4 channel amp I got off a friend a JVC 600W amp and a 12" Rockford Fosgate H2 I know it aint much but it should still be no probs there, also when I took it to the stereo shop today they said the amp was fine. I am lost
 
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I think what shutting the amp off is that "auto-protection" thing....check if the ohms of the speaker are right by using
a DMM. Could be a weak ground to the chassis maybe?

What gauge are you using to power it?

A stinger could help but its weird that it shuts off when you
turn it up and it goes back on when you turn it down :wtf:

Lotsa possibilities....:confused:
 
Can you tell me what an RCA splitter is?
Do you mean LOC?
 
amp

Hey guys, sorry bout the post was tired.... yes it is a LOC. Well.. any ideas, oh yeah it doesnt completly go off, just the sound goes out from it, there is still power, just no sound for a few then all the sudden BOOM< BOOM .... :) dunno..
 
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So when there is no output but the amp is definitly on?

What diagram did you fallow to hook up the speaker wires?

Do you know this is definitly a good condition amp?

What is the subwoofers impedance?

How is it hooked to the amp?
 
I used the diagram on here located in th sticky, and the amp was tested yesterday and was ok, and the impedence....hold on a minute it's a RF HX2 12 one sec.
 
amp

Ok here are the specs on the sub if ya gotta minute..

Key Features:
FIBERlock treated paper cone with Santoprene rubber surround
frequency response 26-400 Hz
power range 150-1,000 watts RMS (500 watts per coil)
peak power 2,000 watts
sensitivity 85 dB
dual voice coil design (two 2-ohm voice coils)
top mount depth 6-7/8"
sealed box volume 1.00 cubic feet
ported box volume 1.75-4.0 cubic feet

PS this was at the end of the listing..

Note: If you are wiring this DVC sub for lower impedance, make sure that your amp is compatible. Most car amplifiers are stable down to 2 ohms in standard mode, or 4 ohms in bridged operation.
 
How is the sub wired to the amp?
How are the coils wired, daigrams may be best incase of a terminology misunderstanding.
 
amp

yeah thats what i am a little shaky about, my bud helped me out yesterday for a minute and said that it needed to be hooked to itself, there are 2 set of outputs on the speaker and there was a piece of speaker wire running from 1 side to the other, and was acting like that, so currently it is hooked up to the amp in the rears output section with it using both the left rear (+) and the right rear (-).
 
OK here we go!

This is how it should be hooked up. This is showing a sub with 2 voice coils that are wired in series.
If its not wired like this, then your amp is going into protect from to low of an impedance.

red%20one,%20sub%20hook%20up.jpg
 
You had both positives to the amps positive and both negatives to the amps negative, didn't you?

That would be a 1 ohm load and I hope JVC has a really good protection circuit otherwise that amps is DONE!
 
ok went out there and f*ck*d with it for awhile and got it I hope it is at is full capacity to, I went and hooked each coil to a channel on the amp, and it is working great now sounds good and well the volume isnt a prob anymore let me know what you think, does this sound more like how it should be hooked up or what.. :)
 
Basicly thats just as good. a 2 ohm load per channel will extrac the same power form the amp as a single bridged 4 ohm load.

I'd still wire it like I posted though. Not a big deal if you decide not to.
 
i was feeding the speaker a 1 ohm input if im not mistaking and it was overloading the amp.. yes/no
 

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