Help Please!!!!

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03.5 MSProtege
(drunk)I'm getting so frustrated and damn tired of trying to find the part thats bad on my car that makes it idle low and frequently die at high rpm... Story goes... thought it was the idle air control valve... replaced it, nothing! Then took egr valve apart checked and cleaned it... while in that process i took the trottle body off took check it and the throttle position sensor. The TPS is good, egr is good... and clean now, and the throotle body looked good. Cold crank and until it warms up it's fine but when it warms up it starts it again. Idles low and at higher rpms mash the clutch to stop or whatever it'll die. What else could it be????(chair)

Could it be the wastegate acc that's bad? If so i got one on the way to my house?

Also shifting from first to second it backfires. Due to catless mid? I don't know but annoying.

It's got a catless mid pipe, new ngk iridium plugs, SMIC, Injen CAI, and now a clean throttle body, TPS, EGR, and new IAC valve.
 
Backfire is from the catless mid pipe and running rich. The MSP runs very rich with the stock ECU and you will back fire. I even had a few back fires with my AFC and Vibrant exhaust.

The car dying is most likely a vacuum leak. Check all your van lines and if you really get frustrated take it to a shop and have them do a vacuum check and find the problem.
 
The times I have had this happen it was easy to find, twice at the throtle body, once at the turbo outlet and a few times at the FMIC under the bumper. At first it didn't seem like anything other than maybe running little rough when stopping or slowing but later it would be real bad. The car would stall or pop from the exhaust and feel heavym oh and the turbo would spool loud.
 
hey guys,
this seems like the proper place for this question since i am having the same problem. I rebuilt my 02 mp5 motor for the third time with ALL the goodies (removed vics and vtcs, ported, by passed throttle body coolant line, etc.) I start my car and it idles soooo sweet until it warms up and then dies. While the car is warming up, if I just barely touch the gas, it dies. There was one time that I was able to get it to rev up to about 3,000, but as soon as it came down, yup! IT DIED. When its warmed up and I can get it to start, it wants to idle very low and just quit. Now, all the sensors have 93K miles on them. I understand that open/ closed loop has to be playing a role in this and it has sensor written all over it, but the big question is which one? Could it be my MAF is dirty? I have a universal O2 sensor, could it be hooked up wrong? Is my crank or cam sensor bad? When I blew the last motor I threw a rod and it blasted the knock sensor out of the block, could this sensor be bad and cause this problem since it controls timing too? I have done so much to find a vac leak and prevent them with clamps and ties, is there any possible way to say "YUP FOR SURE ITS ________ SENSOR!"????

The first person to remedy my problem gets a case of beer on me. If you dont drink, well then start!!! j/k

THANKS A BUNCH IN ADVANCE! I know theres a hundred more just like me out there looking for the same answers. Btw, heres the bay now. The golf cart is where the motor will end up if I dont figure this thing out soon!!!
 

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Do you have a check engine light? It could be a lot of things, vac leaks are notorious and it could be a sensor. Idle control? Hard to say...
 
alright well i am having the same deal happen! today it just shut off on me twice while driving and i know it has a boost or vacuum leak but cant find it. this is also causeing me to run 17 POUNDS OF BOOST! not good! but its fast as hell. i just want it back to normal.

oh and my only upgrade is turboback exhaust!
 
17PSI? That sounds like the Waste Gate Actuator. It seems to be a common problem with the MSP. Search for WGA see what you find. ATP makes a good, decent priced replacement, you get an extra PSI out of it too.
 
another sure sign of boost leak

I had a boost leak last summer. Another big indicator is the massive drop in fuel mileage. The turbo kicks when needing boost and the fuel ratio responds which in turn basically floods your engine. Reason being that the engine thinks the fuel/air ratio is there but with the leak of air it is all offset causing stall. Check your gas milege see what u get.
 
I had a boost leak last summer. Another big indicator is the massive drop in fuel mileage. The turbo kicks when needing boost and the fuel ratio responds which in turn basically floods your engine. Reason being that the engine thinks the fuel/air ratio is there but with the leak of air it is all offset causing stall. Check your gas milege see what u get.

i wish i was getting bad milage! at least the car would be running!! lol the engine flooding sounds right tho. it smells rich, but thought it was normal for idle on our pro's.

alright well i am having the same deal happen! today it just shut off on me twice while driving and i know it has a boost or vacuum leak but cant find it. this is also causeing me to run 17 POUNDS OF BOOST! not good! but its fast as hell. i just want it back to normal.

change yur oil much??? i had this problem on my first set up before i put rods in. thats how i blew my motor! i was luvin the power way too much. my waste gate was sticking from the mani getting way hot, plus i never let it idle before shut off and hardly changed my oil.

Do you have a check engine light? It could be a lot of things, vac leaks are notorious and it could be a sensor. Idle control? Hard to say...

yea i do have a check engine light, but no scanner. i am using the haltech e6x with boost and ignition control knobs. i need to pull my idle control apart, it a;ways started and dies right away even before i rebuilt the motor. at least before it would run good except the idling was always low.egr looked good so i dont think its that....
 
yeah i change my oil every 3000. someone told me my wastegate might be sticking though.

by the way to our cars have boost silenoids cause i heard that could be it!
 
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