That was not the case here.
Both shops recommended against EVER flushing it (not even at 30K miles).
Help - dealer finally gave me their recommended maintenance schedule....
- Thread starter bmninada
- Start date
That was not the case here.
Both shops recommended against EVER flushing it (not even at 30K miles).
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
I used to claim bs...I used to think this was old wives tail junk...then I got real world experience.
Infiniti g20 was fine. 110k miles. Had Infiniti dealer drop the pan and drain and fill trans. 114k miles and the torque converter and clutch bands were all slipping. New trans.
Trans am had 75k on the Oem manual 6 speed fluid. Changed it. It never shifted the same or as slick again. Ever.
Jeep grand cherokee, changed fluid at 68k miles. No flush. It developed a shudder on shifts that took about 10k miles to go away.
Needless to say...I'm not into changing transmission fluid. Ever. Ever ever ever!!!
I think the moral of the story here is - if anyone is inclined to do it, do it BEFORE the main 3-yr/36k warranty gets over or at least the 5-yr warranty gets over. Don't do flush, do drain and fill.
Maybe, someone can write to Mazda Corp. asking them clarifications regarding why some dealers are offering drain & fill and also what, as per them is LIFETIME?
Maybe, someone can write to Mazda Corp. asking them clarifications regarding why some dealers are offering drain & fill and also what, as per them is LIFETIME?
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123373
+1 Got 235k on my y2k maxima without changing the transmission fluid and got rid of it with it still shifting normal. Just donated a y2k pathfinder with 173k, engine and transmission was fine, but body was falling apart!
I'm at 50k on my stock pads and they still are in the "green" per my inspection reports I get a copy of.
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
They should be. I've only had to do brakes on 3 vehicles due to wear. My Infiniti G20 at 100+K miles, my WS.6 Trans Am at 85K miles (I believe we did them just because we did the front rotors, plenty of pad left IIRC), and my LT1 Trans Am at 140+K miles. I replaced rotors on my Grand Jeep Cherokee at around 90K miles, and the brake pads were still plenty good. I just left them on.
If you're doing brakes at 20-30K miles, it's either a bad run of pads, a race-vehicle, or it's a POS.
I believe a lot depends on manner of driving. In other words, in reference to your other posts, you usually drive in highways at +75 mph. Whereas, I am seeing here folks changing their pads, specifically the rear ones at around 30k. Mike, in this forum explained CX-5 uses rear brakes more when soft braking. As such, if there's considerable soft braking, which usually happens in stop and go traffic/urban areas 30k rear pads change seems expected.
As for 20-30K mile brake jobs...
I've personally dealt with issues on Nissan vehicles including undersized rotors which couldn't adequately disperse heat which also caused brake pad materially to adhere to rotor and cause warping sensations. ,
Also insufficiently lubricated caliper slide pins that caused heat buildup and warping.
I've personally dealt with issues on Nissan vehicles including undersized rotors which couldn't adequately disperse heat which also caused brake pad materially to adhere to rotor and cause warping sensations. ,
Also insufficiently lubricated caliper slide pins that caused heat buildup and warping.
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
My 370Z warped the rotors every few thousand miles. Nissan traced it back to not using a torque wrench to hand-tighten lug-nuts. All service performed at the local Nissan dealer. Nissan, and they, lost my business forever over that crap. That, and the 370Z was a pitiful handling car.
Looking at it from a former BMW owner perspective there's been debates upon that time when warranty is about to expire. To change the tranny fluid or not? BMW has lifetime fluid on its literature and promotes lifetime fluid from its HQs which is communicated down to dealerships. Hence why I could not find one single BMW dealership that would take my money and do a tranny fluid change. The opposite end of the spectrum are a host of knowledgeable BMW gear heads, actual BMW techs, and a few reputable independent shops suggesting to change/flush the tranny fluid. In between both sides is the question- What does "lifetime" mean to BMW?. Could it mean after the warranty period expires at which BMW is no longer subject to assuming mechanical coverage yet while also looking good by advertising lifetime no frill maintenance? (I recall they also heavily promoted 12k mile oil changes too).
VW's DSG tranny.....35-40k miles. Recommended by the both VW in terms of warranty and recommended by independent German shops as well. Case closed there.
VW= yes and here's the literature to explain why. BMW = no, its lifetime although we won't divulge into what lifetime means and don't even bother to ask after your warranty expires.
Now this really contrasts to my experience with Mazda. I've read Mazda's emailed/mailed responses to folks whom asked about the tranny fluid intervals and about "lifetime" at which Mazda admits it's not documented in the manual however it directs the owner to follow a local dealer's recommendation whether to do so or not. My 1 trusted dealer near me (2 others sucked) has never even pushed the service to me. So to my surprise I asked about it during a visit and sure enough its on their service menu on the wall.
VW's DSG is a very special case. Ours had horrible shifting from about 25k mi on, which was almost totally cured with the DSG service performed by a trusted independent guru. It felt like a different car. Now, as we approach 60k it's getting notchy again. I may do the 80k DSG service early.
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Chris_Top_Her
Contributor
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
When I was a CX-5 n00b, I went to the dealer for trans flush. They told me they could only do a drain and fill as it wasn't designed to have all fluid removed under normal circumstances. They also did my front/rear diff. That was on my first CX-5. More recently I went to have the transfer case/rear diff changed and they were acting like they didn't want to do it, So I ended up doing it myself. Yes I can agree it just depends on the dealer as the service manual has procedures for this and intervals are specified I the owners manual.
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123373
Pat Goss from motor week did a segment on dealers over torquing lug nuts causing the front rotors to warp. They got me and I no longer allow them to rotate my tires. Of course the dealer claims they never heard such a thing. My brother has a 2015 CX5 and rotates his own tires hand snugging them with no issues. Mine were warped by the 3rd dealer tire rotation at around 23k.
80 ft/lbs is max I torque mine at.
The dealer claims they never heard of what - torquing the lug nuts to factory-spec settings???? I would talk to the service manager and ask him his opinion. If he doesn't say "Of course we follow factory settings!" I'd ditch them in a heartbeat. Every tire shop and dealer I've talked to about this (i.e. every one that's laid a hand on my wheels) has replied that of course they torque to factory specs. I tested them with my torque wrench at first, but found they were all torquing to factory specs on my last 3 vehicles, which stretches back 20 years. I would be surprised if a reputable dealer missed this.
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
Nissan finally admitted it and refunded me part of what I spent replacing them. Props to them for that, at least.
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123373
Unfortunately there are only 2 dealers in my area owned by the same people and they both suck! They have kids putting on wheels with impact guns and have damaged the rims. I complained about them in the past and all they did was send me an 80 dollar gift card whoo hoo.
IMO... if starting with a new vehicle a 20-30K drain/refill shouldn't hurt anything. A used vehicle that has never had a fluid change.... that one is a toss up... a vehicle approaching 100K miles with no known AT service... definitely leave it alone. You will probably guarantee a failure at that point.
