Hello

Sleeper 362

Member
:
2000 Mustang GT
Not new to the sight but I finally bought a MS but instead of finding a MS6 I ended up buying an MS3. I absolutely love it. Dont plan on modding much since I already own one money pit, thus my purchase of this car. Looking forward to wringing it out.

Oh and about the break in thing I seen in another thread, you should pressurize your cylinders, every once in a while, during break in. Helps push the rings into the walls to create a better fit, cleaner tolerances. Just don't constantly slay it. Not fact, just what I have seen works best in person. :D
 
Can't see how manually pressurizing your cylinders would do anything as they are under pressure with with every rotation of the engine when its running.

Additionally from every thing I have read over the past 20 years and from talking to more than a few engine builders the initial seating of the rings happens within the first 15 minutes of running in the engine. Sounds like BS to me. What data have you seen to prove this theory.
 
Pressurize your cylinders by stepping on the loud pedal once in a while. ANy time you push a car up in the RPMs your cylinder pressures will rise, when you add forced induction to the mix the effect is even greater. The downward force of the air and fuel and everything else being compressed within the cylinder will actually push your piston rings (especially the top one) outward away from the piston and into the cylinder wall. This will create a better tighter tolerance between the rings and the walls and the added friction is negligable when compared to the consistency you gain in cylinder pressure. Some people even say that the added outward force of the rings actually cleans up the cylinder walls a little better and you actually will get less friction with a better seal. All this is just heresay, but I never had a problem with it, and every motor I have broken in like this have maintained compression better than a lot of people who have babied their stuff.

My other car is a blown 550rwhp 2000 Mustang GT that runs on 93 and used to be driven everyday until I bought this car. :D
 
Oh and E racer your engine builder is a fool for thinking that it is all seated within 15 minutes. When you change your oil after an engine build after 500 miles you still have metal in the oil, just look at your magnetic oil plug if you have one. Then look at your plug after the motor has gone 1000 miles, guess what you'll see, that is right, more metal on your magnetic drain plug. Drive it another 500 miles, change the oil, guess what is still there. It doesn't all come from the bearings, in fact most comes from the cylinder walls. Why are you still getting metal? cause the rings are still making their impression on the cylinder walls. It usually stops after about 2000 miles (at leats in my experience) That is why most engine builders that know a lot tell you to take it easy but don't baby it for 1500 miles after a motor build. But hey what works for some doesn't work for all. Just thought I would shed some light on an argument that I used to have about ten years ago.
 
You seem to be a good fit. welcome. Good luck with the no mod angle. You already have the disease. So imo pressurizing the piston rings and piston during break in are essential. As is the oil maintenance
 
You seem to be a good fit. welcome. Good luck with the no mod angle. You already have the disease. So imo pressurizing the piston rings and piston during break in are essential. As is the oil maintenance

Yeah I know. I was already looking at a K&N drop in. I have had it for about 3 days now and this is the longest I have gone without doing that at least that to a new vehicle. Even my wifes Escape has a couple gas mileage mods. The only problem I have with modding this thing is I haven't seen too much by way of custom tuning for these. Seems like the computer is pretty finicky. I have learned from past mistakes on the stang, any detonation under boost, no matter how forged and strong your internals are, will cause damage. All forged internals do is help them withstand it better. So even with the K&N drop in, I am kind of scared to mess with it too much. But seeing 25 at the wheels from a CAI is rather aluring. How much are yall picking up with just a drop in? But no I am praying that my stang will take all my mod money away from this, but it won't.
 
I suggest you sit and wait on the motor. The K/N is always a good choice. You might pick up some mpg and a little intake growl. The car is pretty nice stock. Your safe bets at this point are some suspension mods, if you are inclined. A stickier tire, if you can wait for the stockers to wear out. Personally I hurried mine along. Again welcome sir.
 
I suggest you sit and wait on the motor. The K/N is always a good choice. You might pick up some mpg and a little intake growl. The car is pretty nice stock. Your safe bets at this point are some suspension mods, if you are inclined. A stickier tire, if you can wait for the stockers to wear out. Personally I hurried mine along. Again welcome sir.
Yeah my current direction is Auto X and open track events so only mods are turn oriented. My stang is powerful enough for me. Only reason why I want a K&N is to get better mpg in all honesty. I appreciate the welcome and hopefully I can help others as well as learn a lot of things myself. Never opposed to any opinion.
 
Back