Headlight Restoration Recommendations

:
2008 Mazda5 GT
My '08 headlight covers are pretty oxidized. Seeing some of you folks buffing them to sparking is making me want to tackle it. I've never buffer headlights before but wanted to see what kits you folks are using and how long/well (time duration, not mileage) the rework is holding up on this or any previous car. Was it worth the effort?

I understand the process is simply multi-stage wet sanding and buffing (polishing compound). Finish off with clear coat (again multi stage wet sanding) and the key is the clear must have UV protectant else it'll re-oxidize more quickly than not (this is the expensive ingredient). A buffing disc via drill will give better results. Does this sum it correctly?

OPTIONS:
1)I'm leaning towards this kit for DIY but would still need to buy a buffing disc, approaching $30.

2)Buy new headlight covers for $75 shipped. I've taken headlight covers apart (when Altezza was a thing) so this is not too challenging. But I rather not have to take apart a stuff... and old car.
Scroll down pics, can see Stanley and Mazda logo and made of polycarbonate. Unless these are counterfeit (not sure why they'd do this for such a low volume/profit part), I think these are directly from or leftovers from the outsourced MFG .

3)Sam's club provides a headlight restore service for $40 and comes with 5? yr warranty. You'll need to be near a location that offers it...



I think I'm leaning towards Sam's club option and let the pros (ha) do it for a one-and-done deal and save myself a few hrs work. Anyone with experience with Sam's or thoughts on the other two options?
 
Last edited:
I used a CERAKOTE Ceramic Headlight Restoration Kit off Amazon. It lasted a year and has started to cloud a little bit on the top surface. They are sending me a free redo kit. So didn't last as long as I would like but good customer service.
 
@pkthomas - any thoughts on what you might do differently with the redo kit? Would you consider finishing with your own 3000 grit and polish before applying more layers of top coat/uv coat and again 3000 grit it, or perhaps using a different UV coat?


@Yo'sDad - can I assume "them" refer to just the covers? What restore kit have you used?


I'm aware of it not lasting, which is holding me from 'redoing' them. But my light output is noticeable reduced. At the same time, I'm still on the original D2S bulbs so that may be a (bigger?) factor too.
Seems the Sylvania kit is also sold with Activator and UV Block for $10 and can do ~3 pairs! Tempting. The $20 'kit' only includes instructions and 3 application towels for the extra $10!? Reviews seem to vary this kit lasting between 11 months to 2 yrs (different environmental exposure and different prep/application detail). Product has lifetime warranty and reviewers comment they'll send you another kit. Alternatively, I'm also looking around for a quality UV top coat. LMK if anyone knows of a quality product. If the car was younger (Iol, I wouldn't be having this discussion) I would opt for new covers but it is too old to warrant the effort.
 
Last edited:
In the past I never used a kit. I wet sanded with 1000, then 2000, then 3000, then with all the areas around the light masked off I took paper towel and dipped it into Minwax Helmsman Spar Urothane clear high gloss, then quickly made a single wipe sideways across the entire face of the lens. If I did it correctly I did not miss any areas and hopefully did not get it on areas of the car. It dries in about 30 min enough to remove the masking. This worked for me very well for my cars and my friends. I finally got tired of doing this and just replaced the entire light assembly... I also experiment with different LED replacement bulbs but that is a different topic.
 
In the past I never used a kit. I wet sanded with 1000, then 2000, then 3000, then with all the areas around the light masked off I took paper towel and dipped it into Minwax Helmsman Spar Urothane clear high gloss, then quickly made a single wipe sideways across the entire face of the lens. If I did it correctly I did not miss any areas and hopefully did not get it on areas of the car. It dries in about 30 min enough to remove the masking. This worked for me very well for my cars and my friends. I finally got tired of doing this and just replaced the entire light assembly... I also experiment with different LED replacement bulbs but that is a different topic.
Never though of using a urethane being an option! This also goes on crystal clear? And 30 mins cure time seems a bit (too?) long. Will have to look into alternatives. New headlights is not an option for me. GT come with HID headlights (manual leveling servos) and cost a pretty penny to replace.

"Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane is specially formulated as a protective varnish for wood for interior and exterior projects. It contains special UV blockers that reduce the sun's graying and fading effects"
 
@Yo'sDad Thanks to you input, this help opened up my search.

Real coatings like the UV cured spray products are much better than spar varnish. Spar is soft even when cured and it degrades within a year in real world conditions, from my experience. Of course, that varies based on how much exposure it gets, etc. Spar looks good when applied right, but it's not a "pro" product and I was embarrassed I had used it once I found it failing so easily. Sorry, that's just my take.

The spray coatings are not perfect either, but I've found they hold up very well. Only failure I've seen is from abuse by a pressure washer. Getting a smooth finish is a challenge, but the coating is 100x better than spar.

Optilens is what I'm using now. I got some early samples last summer/fall and have been using it since then, about 9 months. My guys and I have done a ton of cars with it (hundreds). It's generally more work than using uv cure spray coating (or spar), because the lens needs to be fully refinished and polished prior to coating. But so far, optilens is great. It leaves the most "natural" looking finish... as if nothing was ever done to the lights. With other heavy coatings you can more easily see what's been done, both with spray or wipe on. Optilens just disappears into the lens leaving a nice smooth finish that is not super shiny, but enough gloss to look good. And there are no wipe marks or streaks. But the lens must be polished out. Optilens will not look as good if the lens is dull or still shows some sand marks or damage. A second coat, or a heavy coat... will help however, if you need to cover up something. I try to avoid that, because the stuff is expensive and results are best if you don't rely on the coating to "fix it". Done correctly, the results are awesome, and it's more predictable than the other coatings.

Even if you slop it on or add a second coat, you can expect at least 3-4 cars from 10cc. Used carefully, you could do much better though. Average cars, single coat... could yield twice that, conservatively.

Time will tell how this coating holds up, but so far it's looking very promising. Most of my work is dealers, but I have done a few retail jobs and have some friends cars that need done, so those I will be able to see long term results.



This is what I've been looking for! But damn it is expensive (as expected) and doesn't help me decide what to do... Considering the time and cost and the fact it is unknown how long I'll be keeping her running, I am leaning towards the Sylvania $10 Activator and Clear Coat/UV kit. BUT if someone can confirm Sam's uses Optilens (or some other commercial grade stuff, NOT consumer stuff), then I'd be glad to let them do the dirty work for $40.
 
I literally just did the Chris Fix version of this...and it's been 3 years now and the lenses are still clear. There have been some bug strikes so they are not super perfect but for a cheap fix, I'd do it again. You have to sand down to the point you don't have any more yellow and then increase up to 2k grit. I didn't find that 3k grit was needed at all.

It was just the cost of the clear spray paint (I got the exact stuff in his vid) and the sand paper as I had everything else lying around.

 
Back