Hard to get into gear after sitting

Alright so I FINALLY figured out what was wrong with my blue P5 (to all those who helped, thanks! But I’m a big dummy and had the timing just barely off lol).

Anyway I haven’t drove it yet, just backed it out of the garage and pulled it up next to it. Whenever I did the shifter seemed like it didn’t want to move? Before it sat for 10 months it felt like it was fine, could my linkage possibly be seizing up somewhere or would it be internal? I’ve tried working it out with the car off for a few days and no progress. If the tranny is messed up, I’m selling it or parting it out lol. I’ve never had a vehicle give me this many issues before going back on the road.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I forget whether you've got a standard or an automatic, but if it were me, I'd try to lube the linkage.

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My parking brake cable seized up, so I put oil in the boot to help.

Oil can creep up the wire and do a better job of lubricating.
Spray grease may not work its way up the cable as far.

Use synthetic grease/oil or rubber grease/oil.

Regular oil/grease can dissolve the rubber boot and turn it to mush.

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Don't give up now.
You've come too far to give up now, and all of your previous issues were because of your timing being off, so that doesn't count. Lol
I’m only gonna get rid of it if it ends up needing a trans lol even then, I’d just put the P5 body on a 4x4 ranger frame lol
 
Went to move the car earlier,took it down the road and it coughed twice,then shut off. Took it home and did a compression test. Somehow each cylinder is at 60psi fml..I’m really beginning to think the car is haunted..on a positive note though,it shifted fine lmao
 
:
2003 protege 5
How did that tensioner spring look after you adjusted the timing? My 1st timing belt job was done by a shop and they had stretched that spring to the point it wasnt providing much tension at all and caused the belt to slip a tooth. So needless to say i got to do the belt again not 3000k after it was replaced.
Is it possible you are having the same issue?
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
^^^ What he said...
If your timing is off, you'll lose compression.

They say the tensioner spring is the most important $2 part on the car.
 
^^^ What he said...
If your timing is off, you'll lose compression.

They say the tensioner spring is the most important $2 part on the car.
Tensioner spring was brand new and still has plenty of spring in it. The old one was stretched. The car is still in time as well,I think it was all the mystery oil saving it from the previous owner cuz it was fine until I changed the oil. Not too sure,don’t really care anymore lol. I’m getting my old P5 back from my buddy so I can just use the bottom end from it since I for sure know it’s good. The good thing is,I’m definitely getting good at doing timing belts lmao went from a 6hr job to about 2hrs now
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
That sucks!

I have no idea why your compression would be at 60 psi then? Bent valves maybe?

The minimum compression is 119 psi. Your car shouldn't run at all with only 60 psi?

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I can't see an oil change making a difference. Maybe tranny oil, but not the engine oil.
 
That sucks!

I have no idea why your compression would be at 60 psi then? Bent valves maybe?

The minimum compression is 119 psi. Your car shouldn't run at all with only 60 psi?

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I can't see an oil change making a difference. Maybe tranny oil, but not the engine oil.
I’m not sure either. It ran fine for two days then when it coughed it shut off and refused to fire again. Compression was fine while it was running. Like I said,I have no idea how it happened. This car never fails to amaze me in the worst possible ways lol.
 

jeffmsp

Member
Contributor
:
2003 MazdaSpeed Protege
When you compression test are you removing the spark plugs from the other cylinders kot being tested? You should be.

The car needs air fuel and spark to start.
Verify if you have compression and spark. If you do then:

Don't do this or any work on fuel system anywhere you cannot afford to have the car catch on fire and burn down. If it's in a garage roll it to near the curb before you screw with anything fuel system related.


With the plugs all pulled out.. if you try to start the car with fuel hooked up you should see and smell fuel mist coming out of the cylinders. Do you? 5-10 cranks and it should be very apparent.


If you do not see or smell fuel then maybe your fuel filter is clogged or even a couple of injectors could be clogged.

Do you get any "chuga chuga" sounds like it is trying to start or just cranking sound from starter?

Make sure you have e a strong battery for all this. Having charger handy between tests to make sure it is topped off is handy.

Good luck.

Cheers