Haltech and Closed Loop Control

Did you happen to get a chance to take picturs of how you wired it up?
 
I Guess if I have time tomorrow, I will hook up the 2nd O2 sensor to the O2 Closed Loop output to the Haltech. (Pin 2 on the Haltech E6X harness).
 
I hooked it up today and here are the results of using the stock O2 sensor(s) for closed loop. I used the 2ndary O2 sensor for my purposes:

What I found out was that at idle, it was doing closed loop no problem, but cruising, there was an issue. I couldn't figure out what it was. So I used the html help pages that came with the install of the Halwin software (pretty damn good BTW). I found my answer there. One of the correction factors that I had on was the Throttle Pumps. Like stated by ELEmental59437, there are correction factors that have to be turned off for Closed Loop Operation to work. I turned them off, and reset my Haltech E6X (I found that the settings did NOT take effect until you power-reset the E6X), and closed loop kicked in no problem! So it works great off the stock O2 sensor. What I noticed was that I had more torque, and better throttle response down low. No more rich bogs at times!!! This feature fuggin OWNZ!! (eekdance)

Here are my settings for the STOCK O2 Sensor:
E6X_Closed_Loop_Settings.jpg
 
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I have sinced changed my settings for closed loop control after noticing some ping during highway "cruising." When I romped on it on the highway, I had a tendency to get ping at very slight throttle in boost. I kept reducing the timing like :wtf: I had an epiphany, and noticed that the pinging mostly happened when I was going fast, and at partial throttle. So I revisited my O2 Closed Loop settings. I had the setting for maximum throttle set to 25%. What this means is that at 26% of throttle, it would fall out of closed loop control. So I did some runs, and noticed that at slight throttle, the throttle reading bounced around considerably, and stayed well below the 25%. (nervous) As a result, I changed the maximum throttle setting to 15%, and it rocks. You will have to tune out any richness you have as a result in the area of the fuel map below boost that your are above 15% throttle. I also changed my cycle between correction from 8 to 7, as I found it to work better.


To recap:
  • 15% should be yoru setting for maximum throttle position of closed loop operation.
  • Engine cycles between correction has been changed to 7.
 
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FINALLY, getting ready to give this a shot with my car.

Has anybody tried both a wideband and the stock O2 sensor? Which is better to use?

Where are you tapping the wire for the stock O2 sensor and which wire do you tap?
 
Forgive my ignorance... But what wire going into the ECU is the secondary O2 sensor?

And any reason to prefer the secondary sensor over the first or vice-versa?

And folks seem to have it working with the AEM and stock sensors. IS there any advantage to using one over the other?
 
I'd help you, but my wiring is slightly different. You should be able to buy a wiring diagram from the dealership, which I strongly recommend. I know it's not very helpful right at this minute.
 
jrodhotrod said:
Forgive my ignorance... But what wire going into the ECU is the secondary O2 sensor?

And any reason to prefer the secondary sensor over the first or vice-versa?

And folks seem to have it working with the AEM and stock sensors. IS there any advantage to using one over the other?

No advantage really.. I just didn't want to hack up the wire to my 1st O2 anymore. You need to hook the wire from pin 2 of the Haltech E6X harness to pin 60 (pink and Blue) of the stock ECU harness.
 
Sooo...

I got out to hook this up tonight thinking, this shouldn't be too hard. Juan sent me a shielded wire a long time ago, and I could not for the life of me find it. I think to myself, shielded wire, no biggie, I'll just go pick some up.

I get some, open up the harness on my haltech only to find out there is no wire in pin #2. DOH!!!

So I am going to guess that the wire Juan sent me has the appropriate end on it to slide into pin #2 on the E6X harness.

Anybody have any leads on how I could re-create that wire myself?

I'll also be sending a PM to Juan to see about getting another one. But was hoping someone here could point me in the right direction to make my own.
 
I have not heard back from Juan and have still been unable to find the wire that Juan sent me (Although I am nearly 100% positive that it didn't have the terminal on the end that it needed to be included in the haltech socket)

The good news, after writing Haltech support they gave me the Delphi Part number for the terminals so now I can make my own wires for sockets missing pins.

If anyone else needs this information here is what I got from haltech:

Hello Jared,
The pins are a delphi pin, part number 12084912 (that is
the delphi part number) this pin also also used by a number of other ECU
manufacturers including MoTec and EMS.

I was able to order the terminals from my local Chevy dealer and should be able to pick up some shielded cable someplace locally. Then I'll be on my way to closed loop operation.
 
if you need the wire Ken should have one sitting around his apartment somewhere if he has not tossed it out yet.
 
In terms of wire I'll see what I can come up with locally, but if not I may hit you up for that wire Ken.

Any ideas on gauge?

From what I can recall it was a twisted copper wire with shielding wrapped around it.
 
jrodhotrod said:
In terms of wire I'll see what I can come up with locally, but if not I may hit you up for that wire Ken.

Any ideas on gauge?

From what I can recall it was a twisted copper wire with shielding wrapped around it.

i used an 18 gauge wire and a PC terminal pin from radio shack
 
Woot, I found the wire from Juan. Unburied inside the house and it was complete with terminal.

So my last question before I plug that bad boy in, does the shielding need to be hooked up to anything as grounding or is just plugging the wire in good enough?
 
If the wire has a terminal, you should just slide the terminal into the connector. There should be no grounding involved, as there should be a ground on the connector already. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Anyone have any corrected maps after they tuned for closed loop control.
I'll hopefully be doing this soon on the Mazda3. And would just like to see how the fuel maps look after you have tuned it perfect. I know they wont work, just curious to what the maps look like.

From reading this it seems it is well worth it. I cant wait to get started on this.

Thanks
 
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