gt25r @ 4psi?

Lil Freek

Member
:
'01 pro lx-t
are there any gt25r's that come with a 4lbs spring for the wastegate?
I keep topping out at 4psi when the spring is supposed to be @ 7psi. :(
 
u dont need a ebc or a mbc, what are u using exturnal or internal wastegate
well i think ur using an external gate so pull the spring out and find out what color it is and what psi that is
 
Is the actuator rod adjusted correctly? You can play with the length of it. Be careful, though.
 
Lil Freek said:
hmm... goddamn.
i don't really want to take it apart as i JUST got it in the car (boom05)

try a MBC if you see that the turbo does not spoolup faster it could be the wastegate. if you hear it spooling and screaming and you only see a few psi it could be a boost leak.
 
i hear the turbo just fine, now... but i think it might just be a 4lbs spring.

i was really asking if Garrett MADE gt25r's with a 4lbs spring. if they didn't even MAKE them, then i'd be in shitsville
 
if its not using an external wastegate then there is no spring, its done by the actuator rod as spool said
 
hmm... ok, i thought the actuator rod was connected to some form of spring :|

yah. i was expecting six.. but it stops on 4psi like clockwork
 
I dont think there is a spring, and if there is its not something you would swap out to change the boost
 
yeah. i know you can't swap out the spring if there is one.
I gave everything a once over while my interior was getting shampoo'd today.. and everything's tight.. none of the pipes are leaking, that's for sure.
the actuator looks fine.. no physical damage to it

i dunno what else it could be, not without taking the turbo off and checking it all out - which i really don't want to do. MBC to increase the boost is in order
 
1. Your have an internal wastegate, no spring...just an actuator rod attached to an actuator.
2. An MBC or EBC will fix this...but if you want to check into it..it's really easy to adjust the rod... on the backside of the turbo/manifold, u'll see a rod going from the actuator(round thing w/ a vaccum line running to it) to a little "arm" this arm is what opens and closes the gate inside the manifold allowing exhaust to surpass the turbine... the rod itself is threaded and the "nut" on the arm side is held in place on the arm by a cotter pin ...just slip the cotter pin off and tighten the rod...go 1/2 turns at a time as it depends on the rod/actuator/turbo setup as to how much boost u'll get out a turn. The basics are..longer arm = less boost; shorter arm = more boost. It should have been set from the manufacturer at 4-6psi... this is a quick fix to see if it is a boost leak, etc...but u should get an MBC or EBC to adjust later on. Boost curve and spool time is almost important(if not more) then the actual peak PSI.

I've got some pics if you need 'em.
 
naw.. i understand what you mean.
i want to get the coolant lines to the turbo first, and figure out the fuel a little more. I might end up just getting the MPI Tuner before I boost any higher.
 
What kind of boost gauge do you have, and are you 100% positive that it's reading correctly?
 

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