Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling

[CasopoliS]

Did you put the stock BPV in the right direction? There is an arrow on it showing direction of airflow. Still shouldn't stall completely out though with a tight BOV. I do not know much about the RS. Good luck.

Damn this thread is getting long.

 

[spacemonkey]

well hadnt had the time to tapinto the break booster so i just tighten uped the spring to about 5-7 threads and it runs perfectly...not as loud but absolutely no stalling or RPM dips. tighten it up and you will have no problems.

Took some time but im happy for now. Next will try break booster line.

If I had a camera maybe I can shoot some video to show that it is possible...and possible on the type RS as ********** (Cullen) is running type RS.

 

[Rich24km]

I was reading on the EVO forum about the 2nd vac attachment on the bottom portion it is needed to open up the BOV properly and they get the same stalling issues. It also tells you how to take out 1 of the springs in the BOV so you don't have to connect the bottom vaccum source. here is the Link, i am gonna try this http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=1&tech_id=7

 

[JDM Sam]

Did you guys ever think the RS is a little too big for a T25 and very little boost?

 

[spacemonkey]

yeah the whole point of the RS is a better comprimise between the Type S (street use aka soft spring) and Typr R (race use aka stifff spring)...combine the 2 and you get Type RS.

So the spring has to be tighter and the diapragm is bigger for better capablity to blow off a larger volume of air. But it does work on the MSP as I know 3 speeds in Orlando including Cullen (**********) that is using Greddy Type RS.

Considering I knwo some pretty high hp SR20s that still use the Type S....so I dont really know whay greddy designed a new BOV...suposidly it has better reaction and response with its new spring design....im still not convinced other then its louder and may hold more boost.

 

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I got the type RS and thanks to all the guys on here for helping me set it up right I just need new vac lines and a stronger vac source and it will be sweet once again thanks for the advise fellas!

 

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

I have another problem guys.......sorry for being such trouble, I replaced some of the vac lines with silicone hoses, and when I took it for a little test drive and when i start to build boost it will get to about 4.5 to 5 psi it starts to cut out bad?? what could it, to me I think the vac hoses are collapsing when I try to build boost. could it be anything else??

 

[Rich24km]

Just a warning when you get a stronger vac source, even though i've read it helps some people out. The valve opens up from like 17-21hg. That being said its going to cause the valve to open slightly which can make you stall more. I played around with the theory this weekend. After reading exactly how that valve works it makes it understandable. The reason the car stalls is because air is being let out that is calculated for which everyone knows. But as soon as you push the clutch in your Hg or vac will hit around 22. Which will make that valve open up unless you've got the thing set so tight you're gonna have turkey either way. So giving it strong vac can make it open quicker which will cause the stall. Now if you tap the gas right when the RPMs get low it won't stall out the reason being that it will jump the Vac up to like 5 or so to close the valve. The stock BPV also opens at 17 but its being recycled back into the system. I believe its set up this way to keep so much air from going to the throttle body while its not all the way open. I dunno i've been messing around with different things for BOV setups without running dual. So far taking the small spring out of the Greddy type-s seems to be working alot better, which doesn't make much sense.

 

[LAZERBLU2003.5]

yeah I tried to hook up the bov to the BB line and and it kept opening up the bov and letting the pressure out even though I tightened the BOV all the way so I hooked it back to where it was before now it runs fine.....

 

[spacemonkey]

im just wondering the A/f Ratios between circulating and venting

mine currently dips down to 10 a/f when giving it gas...im wondering if this is normal or is it becasue im venting?

Other then that I have no problems fromt he regular vacum line

 

[Zoom-Zoom03]

I think I fixed my stalling issue with the hardpipes, new SMIC, and greddy type-RS. I took off the type-RS, and my car still stalled, so I know this was not the issue any longer, so I looked around on the forum, and found that other people were having my same problem, EVEN PEOPLE WITH STOCK SET UPS, some of the members suggested that the issue may be related to the MSP's idle speed, I just turned my idle up about 500 rpms or so, and I took the car out and tired everything that made the car stall before, AND GUESS WHAT.....NO STALLING!!!!! I talked this over with an Cullen's (**********.com) Mazda tech and he said that what I did was adjusted the cars PCM, I turned the idle screw in the throttle body to the left, and I physicaly heared the engine idle RPMs increase, and I check my tach and the rpms certaily increased. The Mazda tech said that the rpms may decrease again, and he said if this happens that I need to ground something under the driverside dash board. I will keep you alll posted on this issue, and let you know what happens, but for now it looks like I may have fixed the car, I drive alot so if something happens it will happen soon, like I said I will keep you posted. I still don't have my type-RS back on, I am going to get a type-s and recirculate it like I should.

 

[otmsp]

you`re so right, my car does the same it stalls all over the place.thanx good info.

 

[HeHateMe]

Where is the adjust screw? I want to turn my idle up a litte as well. Please let me know.

 

[CasopoliS]

Where is the adjust screw? I want to turn my idle up a litte as well. Please let me know.

it is on the back of the TB where the throttle wire is. There is an allen screw with a stop nut. It is hard to get to, I used a ratcheting closed-end wrench. Losten the stop nut all the way with that wrench, then tighten the allen with the car idling. It should only raise it to about 900. Now tighten the stop nut.

 

[VA03Speed]

I have the Greddy type s and i have tried to run open atmosphere and it works for a while then i need to re-adjust the valve every so often to get it to work and still i have to fix the problem everytime and i have hard pipes but i think its because they are custom piping b/c the recirculating part on the stock piping for the bpv was made just like it so do you think that buy getting a new intake to get rid of the hole? and when it blows off either open atmosphere or recirculating it still kinda makes a flutter before the type s sound?

 

[MADSPEEDER]

This Is My First Import Car And I Have No Idea About ( Bov, Bpv, Ect. ) But I Wana Know What The First Thing To Do?

 

[TX Speed Demon]

I have the Greddy type s and i have tried to run open atmosphere and it works for a while then i need to re-adjust the valve every so often to get it to work

As the temperatures change you'll have to make small adjustments. Same if you change you boost levels.

...i think its because they are custom piping b/c the recirculating part on the stock piping for the bpv was made just like it so do you think that buy getting a new intake to get rid of the hole

If that hole on the stock intake where the stock BPV used to be is open, then you need to plug that. You're pulling in extra air after the MAF. It's leaning out your air/fuel mixture and could be causing the rough idle. Go to home depot and get 3/4" vacume caps or something to plug that hole and see if that helps.

...and when it blows off either open atmosphere or recirculating it still kinda makes a flutter before the type s sound?

When you are venting you will probably get a tiny bit of flutter. you can loosen your valve spring untill the flutter goes away, but make sure it's not so loose you then stall out. I have mine where it doesn't flutter when under boost, but it does flutter if I bring it up close to boost then let off.

When you are recirculating you need to REALLY loosen the spring tension. You should get it loose enough so when you rev up it doesn't make any fluttering noise at all. The stock spring tension should be good enough for over 8 psi. I've run recirculating at 8psi with the type s at it's loosest setting without any noticable leaks.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

This Is My First Import Car And I Have No Idea About ( Bov, Bpv, Ect. ) But I Wana Know What The First Thing To Do?

Research. Read through most of the threads in the MSP section and you'll learn more than you want to know. Welcome to the site

 

[Italstal6699]

Greddy BOV W/stalling (03.5 Msp)

Hi guys, sorry to jump in here, but I am about to lose my mind....

I have a 03.5, and put in both an CAI, and the Greddy BOV (purple one as in the thread). It was a custome install, with hard piping etc., and looks very good.

Problem is for 3 months, I have had the idle dip and stall dance 3-5 times a day. Basically anytime I lay off the revs, and brake coming to a stop. Or rev up in reverse, and then brake (ie: coming out of a steep driveway). It drives me nuts, and is the only thing that I do not like about the car. It's rather funny, because every tuner article I read about the stock MSP said to put in the CAI, and a bigger BOV....failed to mention the stalling issues though.

Have yet to tinker with the BOV for adjustment, but from the sounds of the thread, this may be the solution to my pain? By the way, does anyone have the CAI and Greddy BOV? Or, is it the stock Airbox with the Greddy BOV?

Thanks guys.

 

[TX Speed Demon]

^^ I have both, along with an FMIC and exhaust. Yes, adjusting the BOV spring tension will eliminate the stalling. You may get a tiny bit of turkey, but with adjustment you'll be able to fine tune it to your liking.