Great MPG so far on 2023 CX-5 Turbo

My computer MPG has stayed right around 23.6MPG combined since I got my GTR in 21. 30k miles so far. Most of my trips are not highway. On Highway trips when I reset one of the trip ODO's I get 26-27 max running 80MPH or so most of the time.
I’m at 35k miles and have a lifetime of 25.6. Most of my driving is not highway, so I am good with that. 400 mile to range seems to be about the best I’ve seen with most. I use that as my benchmark.
 
My computer MPG has stayed right around 23.6MPG combined since I got my GTR in 21. 30k miles so far. Most of my trips are not highway. On Highway trips when I reset one of the trip ODO's I get 26-27 max running 80MPH or so most of the time.
I find this car has a sweet spot at a pretty low mph. Max economy is between 35-55 mph.
 
My computer MPG has stayed right around 23.6MPG combined since I got my GTR in 21. 30k miles so far. Most of my trips are not highway. On Highway trips when I reset one of the trip ODO's I get 26-27 max running 80MPH or so most of the time.
do you reset it at every fill-up?
 
Resetting trip odometer after each refueling give an indication of our driving habits and if something is amidst.

I hand calculate FE. But have found the Mazda calculated FE is 0.5 less than hand calculated. It works very well!

Watching mpg changes on our vehicles gives us an idication of system health. As the sensors got age our FE declined.

As an example, our 09 Accord FE declined a few mpg near 100k mi. I started replacing easy sensors like map and iat sensors. Then moved on to O2 sensors, replaced the spark plugs and adjusted the valve lash. We saw a 2 mpg increase. Then treated the engine oil with Hot Shot Secret Stiction Elimination. When we sold the car we hit a new highway personal best, 33 mpg. It was fun to drive again.

If we didn't check FE often, we may have missed the subtle decline in FE.
 
Resetting trip odometer after each refueling give an indication of our driving habits and if something is amidst.

I hand calculate FE. But have found the Mazda calculated FE is 0.5 less than hand calculated. It works very well!

Watching mpg changes on our vehicles gives us an idication of system health. As the sensors got age our FE declined.

As an example, our 09 Accord FE declined a few mpg near 100k mi. I started replacing easy sensors like map and iat sensors. Then moved on to O2 sensors, replaced the spark plugs and adjusted the valve lash. We saw a 2 mpg increase. Then treated the engine oil with Hot Shot Secret Stiction Elimination. When we sold the car we hit a new highway personal best, 33 mpg. It was fun to drive again.

If we didn't check FE often, we may have missed the subtle decline in FE.
That only works if your driving habits and conditions are very similar. Too many factors affect fuel efficiency.
 
That only works if your driving habits and conditions are very similar. Too many factors affect fuel efficiency.
Well, I can see a trend and start paying attention on the next couple of tanks of fuel.

A lifetime FE is interesting but sure doesnt help pinpoint any issues or trends.

On my diesel I make trip notes, mpg, load in truck or towing, noticie how many times I have a slow down, temp, wind, rain, tire pressure and so on. After doing this for a few years, I have a good idea if FE drops its time to look at things. I got a log sheet from a long haul trucker. He gets bonuses based on FE.

We do similar logs drag racing. Tire pressure, shock settings, temp, humidity, bar pressure, wind direction and speed, mph and ET on each race. We adjust power, tire pressures based on the above and more. We race to 100th of a second so all the above count.

I make a mental note of the above when making trips in the CX 5. I'm still impressed that hand calculated is with in 0.5 mpg of the computer calc.
 
Yikes, it seems like our 24, CX 5, turbo likes warmer conditions. Today the high was 48 and it's steadily dripping as we head west.

We are getting 31 mpg. Light wind, partly sunny, light traffic, on CC around 67 mph.

It took the car about 50 miles to get fully warmed up. Stuff like the diffs, tires, wheel bearings amd trans...

My travel partner is driving and our mpg is dropping, oh well...

In theory, we should get better FE in colder temps with more available oxygen to burn. The other news, the car accelerated really well and is fun to drive...

Drag racers often use density altitude calculators to predict elaspe time/mph.

Right now thd DA is -870 which is very good. In the summer it's often +2500 and up. At the track we would run at least two tenths of a second faster, -870 vs. +2500. Or the engine is making an extra 80 HP. Back in carburetor days we had to reject the carbs so we didn't melt the pistons and or heads.

Here is a screen shot of our DA a few miles back...

I wonder if FE would improve if we had a winter cover of the front coolers like we put on our diesels....??

Screenshot_20241129-101236.webp
 
Yikes, it seems like our 24, CX 5, turbo likes warmer conditions. Today the high was 48 and it's steadily dripping as we head west.

We are getting 31 mpg. Light wind, partly sunny, light traffic, on CC around 67 mph.

It took the car about 50 miles to get fully warmed up. Stuff like the diffs, tires, wheel bearings amd trans...

My travel partner is driving and our mpg is dropping, oh well...

In theory, we should get better FE in colder temps with more available oxygen to burn. The other news, the car accelerated really well and is fun to drive...

Drag racers often use density altitude calculators to predict elaspe time/mph.

Right now thd DA is -870 which is very good. In the summer it's often +2500 and up. At the track we would run at least two tenths of a second faster, -870 vs. +2500. Or the engine is making an extra 80 HP. Back in carburetor days we had to reject the carbs so we didn't melt the pistons and or heads.

Here is a screen shot of our DA a few miles back...

I wonder if FE would improve if we had a winter cover of the front coolers like we put on our diesels....??

View attachment 332895
Living in Montana I get all temp extremes from minus 25 or even colder to 100+ and mine has stayed pretty consistent. At Christmas we are taking a road trip back to Minnesota so probably have pretty consistently cold driving temps...so far temps really have not adversely affected my mpg.
 

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WELL the FE MPG on the Odometer was OFF. I'm somewhat disappointed but not entirely surprised.

The LOM, Lie O Meter, has to calculate mileage across a wide variety of variables. Also my ECU has been tuned. On our diesels we see our LOMs read different when we load different tunes. Even with a Stock tune on the ECU it's off 2 to 3 MPG.

The Mazda's LOM said 30.8 MPG, HAND calculated was 32.2 MPG or 5%. I do not fill after the pump cuts off. This may or may not be the same every time but the best I can do. Each pump may sense "full tank" different and the car may or may not be sitting level. When possible, I fill up at the same pump, in the same direction. It was not possible on this trip.

I may have gotten a tank of WINTER BLEND fuel in SC! If so, that would explain the drop in FE.

I'm burning 93 octane with ethanol. I often wonder how old is the 93 Oct at the stations. Where I buy at home is next to Barbers International Speedway. They sell a lot of 93 Oct to race cars owners This station also sells ethanol FREE 93 Oct. I'll try that in the future...

So the hand calculated average over 416 miles was 33.60 MPG. That is STILL better than we have EVER gotten.

Like mentioned, I have two friends trying Sta Bill in their non Mazda's. We will compare data soon. After I use up the Marine Sta Bil that treats 80 gallons, I'm going to try Hot Shot Secret Gasoline Extreme and compare to Sta Bil. It has to be WAY better. It requires 12 oz per 20 gallons and cost to treat is $0.88 per gallon! I'm testing HSS FE with a friend and we will compare notes. Anyone try this gas treatment?
 
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I'm not surprised at the push back. The Cummins guys have been pushing back on how aft in the fuel is harmful and does not help for over 10 years. Mean while the ATF burners fuel injectors going to 400k mi vs their 150K mi. A set of 6 injectors is over $3,000.00 PLUS 8 hour labor.

I'm suggesting others try this and report back. I have a friend who is trying this in his has gas burner truck. If its a bust, okay. I'm willing to experiment at the risk of being wrong. Taking risk is how we advance.

My last 2 tanks, +26 mpg intown and 34 mpg highway indicate this is worth $0.010 per gallon. Sta Bil says this will increase FE up to 1 MPG as well as stabilize the fuel.

The bolt on mods I've added don't have rigorous scientific verification but my FE and WOT logs confirm they work. Items like grounding, turning vane, variable flow CAI have shown a small bump FE and power per mod. I've reported for others to follow if they are looking for better FE and performance. I'm not promoting or selling anything. I've mistakenly assumed turbo owners are interested in optimizing their engines performance.

I'll drive anther 400 mi trip in a few days. If its a clean trip, no major slow downs, we will see how it works. I'll report back.

If there is no interest, so be it. I'll keep doing what works for me whether this community agrees or not. :geek:

Living in Montana I get all temp extremes from minus 25 or even colder to 100+ and mine has stayed pretty consistent. At Christmas we are taking a road trip back to Minnesota so probably have pretty consistently cold driving temps...so far temps really have not adversely affected my mpg.
Very interesting and extreme temps! Would you be willing to run a few tanks of Sta Bil, hand calculate MPG, for the good of the community?

Have you compared hand calculated MPG to the LOM, Lie O Meter?

See my post where I found the MPG calculator off almost 2 MPG.

At this point, until proven different, hand calculated tells the actual FE and the LOM is an estimate.
 
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Very interesting and extreme temps! Would you be willing to run a few tanks of Sta Bil, hand calculate MPG, for the good of the community?

Have you compared hand calculated MPG to the LOM, Lie O Meter?

See my post where I found the MPG calculator off almost 2 MPG.

At this point, until proven different, hand calculated tells the actual FE and the LOM is an estimate.
I hand figure every tank full and my lie o meter always reads less than my actual hand figured mpg by a little and it has every single tank full.. I have posted it here often. probably even did in this thread. I am not really interested in trying stabil for mpg increase. I have done similar tests in my Harley and never had any difference at all so I really doubt the cx5 will see any increase. I consistently get better than rated mpg. I have seen no difference in mpg whether using 87, 89 or 91 and recently I posted about a long road trip only using non ethanol and there was no difference in mpg. I do the TF method of filling up so I pretty sure I get it filled to the same level each time ie fill until pump shuts off wait 30 seconds and fill again until pump clicks off.
 
For me this is the downfall of the car for me so far with 18500 miles. I've previously stated either a 8 spd. or different gearing is needed to get better mpg. Until then it is subpar for me. If I keep it 3 years I'll be surprised. My daily commute and gas cost just kill me.
 
Yikes, it seems like our 24, CX 5, turbo likes warmer conditions. Today the high was 48 and it's steadily dripping as we head west.

We are getting 31 mpg. Light wind, partly sunny, light traffic, on CC around 67 mph.

It took the car about 50 miles to get fully warmed up. Stuff like the diffs, tires, wheel bearings amd trans...

My travel partner is driving and our mpg is dropping, oh well...

In theory, we should get better FE in colder temps with more available oxygen to burn. The other news, the car accelerated really well and is fun to drive...

Drag racers often use density altitude calculators to predict elaspe time/mph.

Right now thd DA is -870 which is very good. In the summer it's often +2500 and up. At the track we would run at least two tenths of a second faster, -870 vs. +2500. Or the engine is making an extra 80 HP. Back in carburetor days we had to reject the carbs so we didn't melt the pistons and or heads.

Here is a screen shot of our DA a few miles back...

I wonder if FE would improve if we had a winter cover of the front coolers like we put on our diesels....??

View attachment 332895
check the tire pressure. the cold probably dropped the psi a few lbs
 
For me this is the downfall of the car for me so far with 18500 miles. I've previously stated either a 8 spd. or different gearing is needed to get better mpg. Until then it is subpar for me. If I keep it 3 years I'll be surprised. My daily commute and gas cost just kill me.
What hand calculated FE are you getting? Do you have a turbo? How fast do drive? Did you review the EPA FE estimate before buying?

I'm sitting over here thinking our CX 5 is doing pretty dare good compared to our previous 09 Honda Accord that got 22/30 MPG. We get 26/34 MPG with a few mods and conscious driving habits. An Accura 10 spd RDX AWD 21/EPA FE is 27 with a 10 speed trans. This just goes to show that more gears doesn't automatically mean better FE...

Long haul truck drives see a 30% difference in FE based on driving habits. So much difference, they pay bonuses to drives based on FE. One of these drivers coaches us how to drive our 2500/3500 Ram Cummins. It's about deliberate and conscious driving habits. I use his trip log sheet to monitor and improve my driving habits. He plans his stops for fuel before leaving so that he gets in and out with the least amount of resistance and so forth. He drives under the speed limit and does his best to stay away from other cars and trucks. His picks tires based on rolling resistance and keeps proper inflation. He goes over 100K mi on tires and breaks on his Ram Cummins.

My point, FE is not just the hardware but deliberate driving.

Are you willing to modify your car and driving techniques to improve FE?
 
The air is more dense therefore more fuel has to be added to maintain AFR.
I'm not on board with this statement.

The air contains more oxygen therefore the engine makes more power per stroke. So the engine doesn't need as much boost and so forth to move the car. That is the beauty of EFI. The computer optimizes fuel/timing/boost for the conditions. Back in carb days one had to re-jet the carb but always errored on running rich.

The T stat holds the proper engine temp. The inner cooler cools the air better thus less boost is required and the engine exhaust has less resistance. Less boost means less volume of air or pounds of air has to be mixed with fuel and exhausted.

I asked AI to give some reasons for worse FE in the winter. AI suggested: longer to warm up, under inflated tires, winter fuel and viscous oil. I did NOT check our tire inflation this morning. They may have been under inflated. They were 35 PSI on the first half of the trip. Also, I might have gotten a tank of winter gas. This trip was long enough for all of the parts of the car to warm up.

I noticed the Lie O Meter started indicating better FE after driving 45 to 50 miles today and the car systems were warming up. I have full syn oil in the car.

We may of had a tail wind driving east to west. I couldn't help noticing the breeze "picnicking" in 45F temps today. The wind was predominately out of the west/north west, combo head/cross wind.

These cars are BRICKS compared to sedans. Coefficient of friction of a 24 CX 5 0.33 vs. 0.26 on a 24 Honda Accord. Or a 1969 Dodge Dart is 0.33. Honda CRV is 0.33. Another BRICK. We lowered our CX 5, this had to help some but still it's a brick. Mazda doesn't publish the coefficient of lift. It must be BAD!

On this 800 mi trip first half was 75F, return 45F. FE down 2.8 MPG (32.2 vs 35.0). I did my best to set up the car under the constraints of traveling with my wife. If I was doing a dedicated test, I would have double checked tire pressure and wind speed/direction, etc..

It was not a perfect test but I'm still going to keep using Sta Bil and watch FE. I like getting 1 MPG increase and the bump in performance.
 
You may be right. I don't see mention of air density and AFR here. According to energy.gov:

Cold weather and winter driving conditions can significantly reduce fuel economy. Fuel economy tests show that, in city driving, a conventional gasoline car's gas mileage is roughly 15% lower at 20°F than it would be at 77°F. It can drop as much as 24% for short (3- to 4-mile) trips.

Why Winter Fuel Economy is Lower​

  • Engine and transmission friction increases in cold temperatures due to cold engine oil and other drive-line fluids.
  • It takes longer for an engine to reach its most fuel-efficient temperature. This affects shorter trips more, since a vehicle spends more of a short trip at less-than-optimal temperatures.
  • Warming up a vehicle before starting a trip lowers fuel economy—idling gets 0 miles per gallon.
  • Colder air is denser, increasing aerodynamic drag on a vehicle, especially at highway speeds.
  • Tire pressure decreases in colder temperatures, increasing rolling resistance.
  • Winter grades of gasoline can have slightly less energy per gallon than summer blends.
  • Battery performance decreases in cold weather, making it harder for the alternator to keep the battery charged. This also affects the performance of the regenerative braking system on hybrids, plug-in hybrids, and electric vehicles.

With that said, it has been my experience that driving at altitude in CO sees a loss of power and a gain in economy. I always attributed this to air density and AFR. I remember researching this at the time.

Also, I might have gotten a tank of winter gas.
This makes a difference, in my experience.
 
These cars are BRICKS compared to sedans. Coefficient of friction of a 24 CX 5 0.33 vs. 0.26 on a 24 Honda Accord. Or a 1969 Dodge Dart is 0.33. Honda CRV is 0.33. Another BRICK. We lowered our CX 5, this had to help some but still it's a brick. Mazda doesn't publish the coefficient of lift. It must be BAD!
I'd hardly call them bricks. Worse than many modern sedans, true, but not bad actually. 0.33 is the same as the Mazda RX-9 and BETTER than an MX-5/Miata (0.36). Oh, and there's NO WAY that a stock 60s Dart was 0.30. 0.40 maybe, but even that's a stretch. You may be referring to the highly aerodynamically modified Daytona, but that's a bit unfair, don't you think?
 
I'd hardly call them bricks. Worse than many modern sedans, true, but not bad actually. 0.33 is the same as the Mazda RX-9 and BETTER than an MX-5/Miata (0.36). Oh, and there's NO WAY that a stock 60s Dart was 0.30. 0.40 maybe, but even that's a stretch. You may be referring to the highly aerodynamically modified Daytona, but that's a bit unfair, don't you think?
Okay, half a brick. I'd love to know the CI. I like the belly pan on the 2024, until I work on it. Mazda did a fine job.

I use .33 on my 69 Dart. It's lowered to min allowed, 3" and has a belly pan. It might still be .35 an econo box brick. The wing hurts CF but we need it at the top end, nearing 180 mph on slicks....


Here is what AI said about Mopar 60s boxes...

Daytona .28 wow...

AI Overview

A 1969 Dodge car, depending on the model, would typically have a coefficient of friction (often referred to as a "drag coefficient" in automotive terms) ranging from around 0.35 to 0.45; however, the high-performance "Daytona" model with its aerodynamic design could achieve a significantly lower coefficient of friction, around 0.28.
 

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