Got me a FC

dude I'm in WI. starting with a rusted shell is NOT a good plan. plus, finding an FC with a blown engine should be THAT hard. needs monay!
 
9 bucks for every 100 pounds

thats what it is at the place i go to after i finish gutting f bodies.

plus my chassis is a base s4, no one really wants that body and package.
 
im going to be swapping over to the TII intake mani for now, a lil better then the NA S4 intake mani.

but my roommate def. knows what he is talking about.

I also picked up his old chassis today too.

91 rolling chassis.

TII Brakes
TII Hood
Tien Springs
Walboro 255lph

And NO RUST

My chassis is just too far gone and so rusted out, plus its a base 4 lug model so this will be a big upgrade for me.
Will the TII intake manifold work with the 6-ports on the N/A motor, or are you just talking about swapping the UIM? Also did that car not already have the 4-piston front brakes and vented rear disks? From the rear wiper it looks to be at least a GXL...
 
the brakes are stock on the chassis i bought, but my fc is the base 4 lug model.

I was just listing what ill be gaining by going to that chassis

as far as the intake mani im pretty sure it still will work, im still a nub to the rotary world so i could easily be wrong.
 
the brakes are stock on the chassis i bought, but my fc is the base 4 lug model.

I was just listing what ill be gaining by going to that chassis

as far as the intake mani im pretty sure it still will work, im still a nub to the rotary world so i could easily be wrong.
Gotcha, I think the GXL and TurboII brakes are the same (4-pot fronts and rear vented disks) so it may be a misnomer to say "TurboII brakes". Regarding the intake manifold, the N/A motors have 2 auxilliary ports (called 6-ports) the turbo motors do not (called 4-ports). If you switch completely to a TurboII manifold, both upper (UIM) and lower (LIM) you may end up blocking off the auxilliaries on your 6-port N/A motor. The TurboII UIM may have the TB flange on the opposite side as well. You'll be better off modifying a N/A S5 intake manifold to fit as that is fairly common.
 
the main reason y i want the turbo intake mani setup is for the throttle body to be switched to the other side.

also from what i hear it flows better too.

but im getting the car towed from my work to my house so ill be able to flush the system and hopefully solve the overheating problem

but brakes are brakes regardless of what you want to call them there an upgrade to the ones i have
 
the main reason y i want the turbo intake mani setup is for the throttle body to be switched to the other side.

also from what i hear it flows better too.
I'm not sure about the flowing better part, but why do you want the TB on the driver's side? Unless you're ditching the P/S and A/C and relocating the battery there is more space on the passenger's side.
 
I'm not sure about the flowing better part, but why do you want the TB on the driver's side? Unless you're ditching the P/S and A/C and relocating the battery there is more space on the passenger's side.

Who needs all that stuff? lol and the battery is in the back already

but once what i have up my sleeve done im pretty sure you will like it.



Nice find on the S5 shell!

-Derrick

Thanks, cant wait to start cleaning up the wires and making my aluminum dash and door cards.
 
Gotcha, I think the GXL and TurboII brakes are the same (4-pot fronts and rear vented disks) so it may be a misnomer to say "TurboII brakes". Regarding the intake manifold, the N/A motors have 2 auxilliary ports (called 6-ports) the turbo motors do not (called 4-ports). If you switch completely to a TurboII manifold, both upper (UIM) and lower (LIM) you may end up blocking off the auxilliaries on your 6-port N/A motor. The TurboII UIM may have the TB flange on the opposite side as well. You'll be better off modifying a N/A S5 intake manifold to fit as that is fairly common.

as for the ports.... there stacked on top of each other.

all you have to do is port the opening bigger and your good.
 
Who needs all that stuff? lol and the battery is in the back already

but once what i have up my sleeve done im pretty sure you will like it.
I'm listening :)
as for the ports.... there stacked on top of each other.

all you have to do is port the opening bigger and your good.
Hold on - are you talking about merging the two ports together (on the irons)? If so, that is widely considered a very bad idea (Mazdatrix has a write-up on it). If you're going to go that route I'd suggest filling the auxilliary ports then start from there (essentially making a 4-port motor out of a 6-port). Just trying to help out.
 
on the intake mani side

as of now i have a 4 port NA motor

Im taking the 6 port Tubro mani and you port it out so its no longer 6 port.
 
Last edited:
on the intake mani side

as of now i have a 4 port NA motor

Im taking the 6 port Tubro mani and you port it out so its no longer 6 port.
N/A motors are 6-port unless very early 13B. Turbo motors and early 13B/12A were 4-port. Your engine likely has 6 ports, the intake manifold you want to use has 4. Are you just going to hog out the manifold until it opens up over both the main and auxilliary ports?
 
ya i failed bad lol

i do have a 6 port

but you just fill in the ports and port match to run the turbo mani's

but flushed my coolant today and i think my motor is bad.

There is alot of pressure in my cooling system... enough to blow off the hose that goes from my goose neck to my overflow tank
 
ya i failed bad lol

i do have a 6 port

but you just fill in the ports and port match to run the turbo mani's

but flushed my coolant today and i think my motor is bad.

There is alot of pressure in my cooling system... enough to blow off the hose that goes from my goose neck to my overflow tank
Gotcha. Yeah, that's what a lot of people are doing nowadays with turbo motors being harder to come by (and more expensive). Still slightly different timing but I've seen it work. Good luck!
 
worked on the car today and finally fixed the overheating problem.

the clutch in the fan was shot, i was able to grab the fan and hold with no effort.

So i took it off and ran some self tapping screws threw it and tightened up the water pump/alternator belt and it ran perfect.

I know the fan fix is a lil ghetto lol, but for now it works. Ill be switching to an electric one soon. Just need to get my ass to a junk yard.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back