Goodbye old friend, hello new buddy!

The 1.8L or 1.6L can hold way more boost than the 2.0 without having to get new internals, I have no idea how difficult a swap like that would be though.

Why would you move from an RX8 to a P5?!!
 
NatesNewToy said:
I live down in Dothan, but get up to Birmingham 2 or 3 times a month. I've still got a house there and all that. Does this Matty fella work at one of the local performance shops?

The P5 has 32K on the clock. Not too bad.

ok so if it's an '02 that means you're close to end of warranty, right?

Matty is his own performance shop haha.

Anarchistchicken is another dude to get to know. The supercharger is going into his car soon...
 
peepsalot said:
The 1.8L or 1.6L can hold way more boost than the 2.0 without having to get new internals, I have no idea how difficult a swap like that would be though.

Why would you move from an RX8 to a P5?!!

See below for the reason for the switch.

Changing out engine internals isn't that bad, as long as you don't have to do anything retarded like resleeve the block, or any of that madness.
 
Lord_Zath said:
ok so if it's an '02 that means you're close to end of warranty, right?

Matty is his own performance shop haha.

Anarchistchicken is another dude to get to know. The supercharger is going into his car soon...

Nowhere near the end of the warranty. I bought a certified pre-owned. 100k/7yr warranty extension. I know I won't be able to wait that long to get crazy with the car though.

Only reason I ask about the shop, Speedsouth in Pelham (just south of b'ham) has built some pretty sick Mazdas, including a beastly turbo Miata. The owner of that place used to help run our autocross events.
 
(shameless plug)
you should drop TurfBurn (Steve) of NSN Motorsports a line if you are interested in engine management. He sells Microtech, he's got his MP3 running one right now.
(/shameless plug)
 
So anyway info you want:

Motor is FS-DE, bore 83mm, stroke 92mm
Issues with internals: Rod fatigue if boosting basically above 10 psi, Motors MIGHT be rpm sensitive as well. I believe there was one failure from 7200+ rpm's with stock rods on the dyno.
Nothing fancy to put in internals, we have a closed deck block, so very strong from that standpoint, and the head gasket is very strong and can hold into the 20's for psi, and detonation too.
Engine management options: DSM Convert has an airflow Logisitcs thing that works good I guess, but I know nothing about... MP Nick sell the MPI Tuner which is around 6-800 I believe and works well as a piggyback. I sell the Microtech standalones which are about 1150 shipped and work well, the Haltech EMS is being used by some and I believe runs around 1500, then there is the AEM which is all out and runs around 2200 and is sold by Mental Addiction. There is also uni-chip and a few others available there.

NA power I think people have been able to net 150+ at the wheels... but not sure... FI we are pushing to the 400 mark here.. but found out that at about 300 whp you will blow 3rd gear in the tranny... solutions are being worked on. Otherwise transmission is good but people early on broke shift forks from shifting abuse, but haven't had that in a while.

LSD's are available... the Mazdaspeed LSD works very well and is super cheap (450 bucks) but should be welded for increased strength if you are going to go high horsepower or like to beat on the car and aren't good about stopping wheel hop. The Quaife LSD can go in our transmission as well but runs around 900 to 1100.

Motor mounts are a big improvement. AWR offers solid front and rear mounts. I offer casting of the motor mounts to get them to kill wheel hop as well..

Any questions you have just shoot me a pm or post here and I'm happy to help!

Later,

Steve
NSN Motorsports, LLC
 
Thanks!

That's exactly what I was looking for. Do you know what the engine's numeric designation is, as well as the ECU?
 
eibach prokits are nice as well as espelier springs, tokico is out only real option for struts, and the rear sway bar(racing beat or awr) does an amazing job of tightening up the rear and well... im sure you know what tires are good. theres a fitment guide in the wheel/tire section. after all that, it'll be quite fun to drive and great as a daily driver.

you dont need to boost a daily driver if you have a modded prelude
 
Roywhitep5 said:
eibach prokits are nice as well as espelier springs, tokico is out only real option for struts, and the rear sway bar(racing beat or awr) does an amazing job of tightening up the rear and well... im sure you know what tires are good. theres a fitment guide in the wheel/tire section. after all that, it'll be quite fun to drive and great as a daily driver.

you dont need to boost a daily driver if you have a modded prelude

tokicko is ONE option.. Illumina's work well, and there are Koni's as well.. all adjustable... there are also JIC and Ksport coilovers... lots of other options too.
 
NatesNewToy said:
That's exactly what I was looking for. Do you know what the engine's numeric designation is, as well as the ECU?
There is no numeric code for our engines... they are FS-DE motors... if you had a mazdaspeed you'd have an FS-DET motor... the computer is a Ford EECV... I can't remember the dash version.. so I won't post it... (it's like a 4 or a 5 or something)

Later.

Steve
 
Not to mention Tein, they make a coilover setup for it as well.

TurfBurn - I totally missed the FS-DE reference in your first post. heh, oops. Anyhow, so nobody you know of has hacked the ECU in this car and developed any freeware/open source tuning software? If not, I may just take a crack at it.
 
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The ECU on the P5 sucks. There isn't anything out yet that's as successful as say...a chipped P28 with Hondata. Having had a boosted civic and worked on alot of hondas and owned my 02 5spd P5 for a year and a half, if i were you I'd stick it out with just basic mods.

True the H22 ringlands are weak, but at least you have a bone stock motor that can rev to 7600 everyday and makes a good 60whp more than a P5 stock. Stock, the P5 handles a bit better but with a bigger rear sway to get that big Prelude ass to stick, itll be at least competitive with a P5.

The only mods that turned out worth doing on the P5 was just lowering it with eibach pro's and a short shifter. I have intake, header and exhaust and the gains really aren't noticeable. It just seems like the ECU doesn't know what to do with the extra airflow which is odd because it's MAF.

Just some random facts on my car...

With just an intake I dynoed at 101whp/111trq.

With intake, header, exhaust I dynoed at 103whp/113trq.

Both were on a dyno jet. Only positive thing I can say is peak torque was at 3600 rpm.

Also at the track it weighed 2680 with full interior and a bunch of s*** in the hatch. I trapped at a death-defying 81mph, the 1/4 isn't worth mentioning because my 60 foots were bad. Anyway, good luck, im looking for a 5th gen Prelude as I type this...
 
Replica said:
I have intake, header and exhaust and the gains really aren't noticeable. It just seems like the ECU doesn't know what to do with the extra airflow which is odd because it's MAF.

Exactly why I want to crack that ECU. I've done some ROM editing on the Honda P12/13/14 family, and on P28 and P72 ECUs. There's bound to be some power to be had there. Did you get any tuning done on the car while you were at the dyno?
 
Replica was having problems with his car that aren't commonplace, so don't take his experience as a representative sample. Most of us get a good power gain with our headers, and people are getting 10-15 whp usually from a header and exhaust.
 
That's not a bad gain for just the header and exhaust.

One more total newb question: Where exactly is the ECU located? I haven't had a chance to go look for it yet.
 
ECU is located under the front passenger foot well I believe. I might be wrong, but I think that's where it is. And Replica, the ECU is fine, it's Mazda's tuning of it that sucks. Nate, if you are interested, we are having a couple meets in central Alabama/western Georgia in the next few months. Check out the Georgia section for the threads or PM me if you can't find them. Welcome to the board, btw.
 
Replica said:
With just an intake I dynoed at 101whp/111trq.

With intake, header, exhaust I dynoed at 103whp/113trq.

Thats really wierd...with the same combo (keeping the stock midpipe) I dynoed 118whp
 

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