Going Forged?

[mzspeed14.0]

jwehrheim, let me know if you find a decent shop. i dont want anyone learning on my baby... if your build goes well would you be interested in working on mine?(wink)

I also live in Atlanta, just bought a MSP with a thrown rod. I am pulling the motor probably this weekend. Just need to take out the drive axles. I will be tearing down the motor to check the crank, head, cams, etc. Replace parts and machine what is necessary. I still need to find a quality machine shop, which shouldn't be too hard.

As to rebuilding a motor. Yes you can do it yourself, but I would recommend having the right tools to verify your bore roundness, clearance, crank roundness etc. Many years ago, a friend taught me how to build motors properly and have since built 2 motors. I invested in a dial bore gauge, mic's, cc, etc. to verify that the machine shop and my work is done properly.

 

[withcheese]

I plan on doing a forged build up when I need to right now the car is running great, except for the fuel problem. Anyway when I do go forged I have my dad who used to work on exotics like lambos and jags and stuff so I have all the help I need. I'm not totally useless but there are a lot of things I don't know.

What about the forged blocks that already have the pistons and stuff installed? Are they any good?

 

[JDM Sam]

It's cheaper to build your own and you will get the specs for it from your machinist.

 

[i like speed]

I'm not totally useless but there are a lot of things I don't know.

How do you know that there is a lot of things you don't know? There might only be a few things you don't know but you don't know it because you have no way of knowing the things you don't know unless you know them in which case you don't not know them.

 

[neox.286]

^^^
having worked on motors myself I can also attest that there are many things I dont know, just cause you can do the work doesn't mean that you know everything about...ya know? (thumb)

It's cheaper to build your own and you will get the specs for it from your machinist.

^^^
mark of a truely awesome salesman here

 

[BlueWolfCry]

How much is it generally for a hone and bore? So if I ever get forged internals and plan to do labor myself, I need to pull the engine, drag it to a shop to get honed, then bring it back to install the internals? Damn that will suck...lol

 

[i like speed]

^^^
having worked on motors myself I can also attest that there are many things I dont know, just cause you can do the work doesn't mean that you know everything about...ya know? (thumb)

Ok you got me.

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

why would you go .040 over? the only reason you are overboring is for safety, not for power...why run a riskier setup?

Why would you go over .020?
Safety? The only safety would be to ensure the cylinder wall is true. If its not its mostly because of high mileage or cylinder damage causing them to be uneven. Other than that (dunno).
Here you have a vehicle that for most part wont see 250 hp with people running stock to 10 psi. Unless they damage the engine cylinders or want to increase displacement because they're serious about a horsepower... whats the point?

 

[JDM Sam]

How much is it generally for a hone and bore? So if I ever get forged internals and plan to do labor myself, I need to pull the engine, drag it to a shop to get honed, then bring it back to install the internals? Damn that will suck...lol

$100-200 for cleaning, hone, magniflux, new freeze plugs, and repaint the block. Also, Micro-polishing the crank journals is usually a good idea.

You'll have to align hone the mains if you get ARP main studs. If you don't, you'll be crying if and when your motor throws a main bearing.

Also, do an engine balance on the crank, rods, and pistons. Forge rods and pistons are heavier than stock pieces. You'll want to make the tolerances between the cylinders are within 1 gram or less for a performance build. Why? You'll have a smoother running motor that'll have less vibrations and lasts longer. Don't be cheap and skimp on this service. You'll gain power and reliability by doing this.

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

Standard bore is fine. You don't overbore unless necessary. If you are pulling a perfectly running motor the cylinder walls will be in good shape.

Agreed

 

[2.0t03speed]

orly sam i did not know this about the arp main studs

 

[JDM Sam]

 

[2.0t03speed]

el oh el looks like ill get that done too with everything else i had planned to get done with the machine shop

 

[DiscreetSpeed]

"All go with a touch of show.
(first) MSP with Haltech E8 and GT3071R on stock T25 mani."

(blah) Pic of entire setup...or BAN! (rockon)

 

[JDM Sam]

haha you'll get to see it if you go to tx meet 3.

 

[2.0t03speed]

you finally get it coated?

 

[neox.286]

Why would you go over .020?
Safety? The only safety would be to ensure the cylinder wall is true. If its not its mostly because of high mileage or cylinder damage causing them to be uneven. Other than that (dunno).
Here you have a vehicle that for most part wont see 250 hp with people running stock to 10 psi. Unless they damage the engine cylinders or want to increase displacement because they're serious about a horsepower... whats the point?

as I and a few others said in here before
its only needed if your walls are not true, you might be able to get away with resleeving it but in a few cases (more often than youd think actually) you will need to overbore it

I personally run stock, because my walls were fine, I said it is used for safety in that if your walls aren't true and you dont feel comfortable resleeving it then you have the option of going overbore slightly....its really up to the person who is having the work done