Getting ready to install Pioneer D3

coltrane

Member
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2007 Copper Red Mica CX-7 Grand Touring
I've now got all the parts in hand to install the AVIC-D3 along with bluetooth & XM add-on's, and back up camera. I'm laying it all out and making my plan and I had a few questions:
1. Where did you all mount your navigation antenna? Did you actually run it outside, or above the dash, or somewhere else inside? I'm going to have an XM antenna also so I'm debating where to try them on the dash, or possible on the small sill in the rear side windows. Not really wanting to run wires outside, and I had an XM antenna in the 3rd brake light of my old GP and it worked perfectly.
2. Do we need an antenna adapter for the factory antenna? I didn't get one with the "installation accessories" and don't see one listed on Crutchfield so does our antenna plug right in?
3. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know which wire is the speed sensor to tap into?
4. Back-up light-anyone have the wire? I know I can pull the harness from the taillight and figure it out but if anyone whose done it has the wire it might save some time.
5. If anyone has this with the Bluetooth add-on, did you have to use the mute wire? The bluetooth manual does not mention it, and the D3 manual just says "if you use equipment with mute function, connect that equipment to the audio mute" otherwise keep free of connections. Is this needed for bluetooth to mute the radio when the phone rings? Or is it just saying that if you mute the radio (with the mute button) it won't mute voice navigation or the phone ringing? The only reason I really care is that the instructions I got to overide the safety feature includes pulling that mute wire and using it elsewhere. ;)

Any other tips from those who've done the install? I had previously purchased the Scocsche kit and had it dipped piano black so I'll definitely post up pics when its done. I'm hoping to get around to this by early to mid February.
 
I know this, you should not need an antenna adapter.

You will need a PAC adapter to use anything on the steering wheel

And if you don't mind, you could easily mount the antennas upfront on the shelf, or sitting right on top of the center stack, running the wire out of the top.
 
Thanks for the info on the antenna, at least I know I don't need that. Also verified the mute wire isn't used so that's off the list. I've had no luck finding the speed sensor wire, though, Crutchfield doesn't have it in their database, and my dealer says to stop in sometime and maybe a service guy can look it up, but didn't give me a great feeling that they'd want to do it. I've seen lots of D3 install threads on here, did everyone have them installed, or not connect that wire? I figure I'll look for a Haynes manual or something at AZ next.

I'll have to play around with the antenna's, I'm thinking maybe in the far front corners of the windshield, or possibly in the 3rd windows on the side, just don't want to run them outside as it looks too good with the sharkfin, don't want to mess it up with more black boxes. ;)
 
what do you need the speed sensor for? most gps systems determine speed by the ping relay off the different gps satelite all hand held gps tell you how fast you are going that way...
 
No the safety lockout uses the parking brake, and I've got that covered, as to how to get past that. ;) The speed sensor they say is for calculating estimated travel time, which makes sense to me, but I hadn't heard about pinging satellites. I would guess since the wire is there on the harness, its necessary for that feature, though.
 
Ok did the install today and I've got a big problem-no sound from the speakers. I've got a signal both before & after the factory harness on the remote turn on wire to the Bose amp. I verified my speaker connections are correct according to what Crutchfield can give me (several wires are marked ??? on their chart). It appears the Bose amp just takes a left & right input and I've got the front l&r connected to the factory harness using an adapter. Just to make sure I unplugged the D3 and plugged the factory radio back in and the speakers work, so its got to be something in my wiring. Any ideas from those with Bose who've done installs?
 
Don't think it will work with the BOSE

I had a Z2 professionally installed, see here also CXRabbit's thread about her Z2 experience. I ended up with a new amp, she ended up with a rewire. I don't think you can run the BOSE amp. I searched long and hard for a solution but didn't come up with one. I can say though that my JBL amp crushes the BOSE.
 
I have the Z2 done by a budy of mine, he had to move the wiring around on the harness so thats why you have no sound
 
YOu can run the bose amp, i have the bose amp runing my speakers and 2 900Watt amps runing my two mtx subs. Didnt need a 3rd amp for the speakers
 
I'd be curious what wires he "moved around" to make it work. I wonder if he moved the wires out of the Bose amp direct to the speakers, because I found no way that an aftermarket HU can power the Bose amp. The stock Bose HU only sends a left & right signal, no front/rear/center, that is all done at the Bose amp level. I tried everything I could think of and got tips to try and nothing would make the Bose amp send a signal to the speakers with an aftermarket HU. Even if you could it would have no front/back fade as the Bose amp can't accept those inputs. I ended up tapping into the wires at the Bose amp and going directly to the speakers and it still sounds pretty good. I'm betting that's what your friend did as well.
 
Oh and if anyone else finds this thread the answers to my questions were that you don't need an antenna adapater, the factory plugs right in; the reverse light wire is orange & green in the big bundle going to the BCM just above the e-brake/dead pedal area; never found the VSS wire so I just left my extension wire run to tap into later hopefully; and I mounted my XM and Nav antenna's at the top of the center stack under the dash, and no problems picking up a signal:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa255/jazztrane/Mazda/AVICD3001.jpg
 
hi
I have a question, if you have audio controls at the wheel? And the LCD of the van retains the normal functions, clock, radio frequency indicator, etc.)
 
Steering wheel audio controls are retained with the PAC SWI-PS interface (at least for me, this one's for Pioneer and Sony HU's). For this Pioneer installation you connect the white wire of the PAC to pin 9 of the factory harness and ground the wire in Pin 10. The PAC unit has its own power & ground wires to run, then just program and that's it, all controls still work fine.

The radio still displays but I'm unable to change it via the HU anymore, so once daylight savings changes it will be off. Some have said the dealer may be able to program via the OBDII port but I haven't heard that for sure works yet. The radio display portion such as cd track & radio station is lost, but the HVAC controls still show up there.
 
Steering wheel audio controls are retained with the PAC SWI-PS interface (at least for me, this one's for Pioneer and Sony HU's). For this Pioneer installation you connect the white wire of the PAC to pin 9 of the factory harness and ground the wire in Pin 10. The PAC unit has its own power & ground wires to run, then just program and that's it, all controls still work fine.

The radio still displays but I'm unable to change it via the HU anymore, so once daylight savings changes it will be off. Some have said the dealer may be able to program via the OBDII port but I haven't heard that for sure works yet. The radio display portion such as cd track & radio station is lost, but the HVAC controls still show up there.


You can just take the proper FUSE in/out exactly at 12:00 and it will reset the clock, I haven't done it on mine yet but it should work.

Also for the PAC interface, you only use 2 wires? I ordered mine on crutchfield today for my D3. Any tips on how to program it?
 
Well actually just one, the white wire of the PAC bundle taps into the Pin 9 of the factory harness, then ground the wire going into pin 10 of the factory harness. Then on the PAC you'll have power, ground, and the 9mm plug into the back of the HU.

Once you're actually programming, the only tip is get an extra set of hands, cause you'll have to hold the program button in while turning the ignition, then watching the flashes on the PAC while pushing the steering wheel buttons, so its definitely easier with 2 people.
 
Well actually just one, the white wire of the PAC bundle taps into the Pin 9 of the factory harness, then ground the wire going into pin 10 of the factory harness. Then on the PAC you'll have power, ground, and the 9mm plug into the back of the HU.

Once you're actually programming, the only tip is get an extra set of hands, cause you'll have to hold the program button in while turning the ignition, then watching the flashes on the PAC while pushing the steering wheel buttons, so its definitely easier with 2 people.

Thanks, all the buttons work? do you have delay ?
 
Yep, all the buttons work. There might be a very slight delay but I felt like there was stock, at least more of a delay that we have in our other cars, so it wasn't a big deal. For some reason the Mazda buttons just seem to want to be pushed and held a split second longer to activate, but you can quickly adjust to it and it'll be fine. There is a feedback beep that lets you know when the push is accepted but its pretty loud and annoying so we turned it off (in the navi menu area).
 

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