Game On Again

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laloosh

Banned
Well i was demodded for a lil while cause of the whole cpe thing. Got rid of the standback and cai and pretty much went back to stock besides the TBE and Fuel pump. Then my car developed an oil leak, ended up being the oil pan leaking....dealer replaced it under warranty with zero questions.

As of 10 min ago the car has
SRI
ETS 3.5
Catted 3in TBE
PG fuel pump
TRZ Solid Mount
Forge BPV
1 Step Colder plugs
Coil Spring Mod
Map Clamp Set to 14psi
STOCK BOOST

With the stock boost controller the car spikes 21 and holds 19 till 6000rpm and absolutly flies again. i did all sorts off pulls, its 28 degrees outside and not one sign of boost/fuel cut. i did a 4th gear 2krpm wot roll, NOTHING just straight power to redline

hehe i love my car again(drive2)


slicks and 11s to come.(fight)
 
how does it feeel compared to when you had the standback and were running the 12.9 or so times?

faster, the standback is a waste.
12.9 was i/tbe/18psi/pump
now its i/ic/tbe/19psi(21 spike)/pump not even using a boost controller.

i honestly see very little reason to even bother with the ap...my a/f ratio is in the mid 11s, its pretty much spot on where i want it to be....

i did 1/4 times based off the dashhawk, i know they are not accurate but after the 12.9 i tuned the car and it trapped a best off 116.x and averaged around 114.
i did a run today and hit 115.8 with the traction control on...well c when the tracks open up
 
So you're saying since you have the map clamped at 14 psi, the sucker is at 19 without any boost controller? How is that possible?
 
Driving hard @ WOT and shifting, my car spikes 20psi and holds between 17-19psi, falls to 14-15 by redline. im stock minus a cold air intake.
 
The key is that goddamn pump. It pisses me off how easy that mod was for you.... and thanks for nothing with the standback you booger...lol

This is a big request but would you mind posting some datalogs of a run with your setup right now.....
 
faster, the standback is a waste.
12.9 was i/tbe/18psi/pump
now its i/ic/tbe/19psi(21 spike)/pump not even using a boost controller.

i honestly see very little reason to even bother with the ap...my a/f ratio is in the mid 11s, its pretty much spot on where i want it to be....

i did 1/4 times based off the dashhawk, i know they are not accurate but after the 12.9 i tuned the car and it trapped a best off 116.x and averaged around 114.
i did a run today and hit 115.8 with the traction control on...well c when the tracks open up

I want to know where you can go and do these runs with the track closed and not be worried about getting a ticket. The green monster of jealousy is alive and well in NC.

Running with a clamp and no boost control would make me more than a little nervous. With the clamp telling the computer that you are making 14 psi of boost, and no controller, the only thing limiting the amount of boost the car can develop are restrictions in your intake/exhaust and the size of the turbo. If I did that, I am sure the car would promptly overboost and leave a trail of internal components on the road behind me.
 
pshhhhh, i know of places in NC to do whatever the F you want ;)

like hwy 264...

you only need like 3/4 of a mile...
 
I want to know where you can go and do these runs with the track closed and not be worried about getting a ticket. The green monster of jealousy is alive and well in NC.

Running with a clamp and no boost control would make me more than a little nervous. With the clamp telling the computer that you are making 14 psi of boost, and no controller, the only thing limiting the amount of boost the car can develop are restrictions in your intake/exhaust and the size of the turbo. If I did that, I am sure the car would promptly overboost and leave a trail of internal components on the road behind me.

I see, why not just make the map clamp 15.6 as per stock then...???
 
loosh thanks for posting, I was going to ask you exactly what was in this thread (comparing your standback, with your current setup). Hot damn, so many need that fuel pump!
 
i can't do data logs cause my boost is clamped so it will shoot up to 14 and stay there. Ever since the ic upgrade my car just rips and holds 19. Btw its not like im running no boost controller, i am running one, the stock one. if u guys don't believe me i have a video of my car fuel cutting to hell, i can post it up.....btw 287 at night is empty, launching on the rumble strips ftl.
 
i can't do data logs cause my boost is clamped so it will shoot up to 14 and stay there. Ever since the ic upgrade my car just rips and holds 19. Btw its not like im running no boost controller, i am running one, the stock one. if u guys don't believe me i have a video of my car fuel cutting to hell, i can post it up.....btw 287 at night is empty, launching on the rumble strips ftl.

I've been of the impression that the major point of the clamp (and similar devices) is to effictively disable the factory boost controller by making the computer think the car is developing something less than full boost.
If the factory boost controller is faked out, then it isn't really being used, hence my thinking that you have no boost controller. Isn't this why boost cheaters (whether electronic or bleeder) essentially require a boost control of some type be added? Not to tell make the system generate higher boost (the clamp does that) but to limit how high the boost goes and prevent over boosting, because the factory controller has been disabled?
 
Why do you still have the map clamp...? I thought that was for people wanting to run more boost and not hit fuel cut...??

If you are back to stock, I would assume you could take it off now and see what it feels like.
 
the map doesnt change anything at wot. no timing no a/f changes at all
our map sensor is there for pretty much one reason, overboost

Sure it would. The computer may be running off preset parameters (maps)instead of constantly tweaking the mix based on its oxygen sensors, but it is going to use different maps based on how much boost the turbo is producing (higher boost, a little less timing to prevent knock for example). So if the ECU "sees" a different boost pressure, it should change the timing and/or fuel mix to be correct for that boost according to its maps.

I would love to see someone with too much time on their hands and ready access to a dyno test this (Driver, are your ears burning?). Run some passes datalogging everything and see what effect different settings on the clamp have on timing, mix, etc. You might gain a little power by tweaking that clamp.
 
NONE i already did the testing when i had my standback. zero changes, trust me on this.

As for the boost questions, the map doesnt control boost, the stock boost selnoid does. The map just limits boost once it goes over 18psi and hits fuel cut. The you can pump out over 18 with breathing mods, theres nothing to stop you, aka map sensor.
 
Why do you still have the map clamp...? I thought that was for people wanting to run more boost and not hit fuel cut...??

If you are back to stock, I would assume you could take it off now and see what it feels like.

im not stock, did u read the first thread?
 
The key is that goddamn pump. It pisses me off how easy that mod was for you.... and thanks for nothing with the standback you booger...lol

This is a big request but would you mind posting some datalogs of a run with your setup right now.....

hey man, u read all my posts and you still bought it. every1 here knows i got suckered into buying it thinking it would resolve my fuel cut, and when it did not i used it as a really expensive boost controller(doh)
 
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