Oh yeah, and Rahne, I agree with everything culridr said. Do some looking around on this forum in different threads relating to stuff you're interested in and you'll find so much info it'll take weeks to get it sorted.
One thing to keep in mind if any of you MP3 owners do go turbo though. Don't use the MSP ecu. The MSP's came with 4 wheel ABS and the ecu has those sensors integrated into the speedo signal. If the ecu is not receiving a signal from the tranny sensor AND the wheel sensors (which our MP3's don't have) your speedo isn't going to work. Buy a very cheap P5 ecu (without ABS) and get at the very least a piggyback Fuel and Timing controller.
-autoexe big bore throttle body vs mental addiction throttle body. Read some posts by LordWorm in the NA tune section about this stuff. A bigger throttle body strapped to OUR stock motor would most likely LOSE power.
-B&M vs corksport vs TWM short shifter. B&M is hard to find for our cars now. TWM is what I have and love it. It's a bit stiff at first, but once it breaks in it's a joy to use. It's also the shortest throw of any aftermarket shifter for our cars.
-fidanza flywheel vs unorthodox racing flywheel. Heard of several ppl on here with the fidanza, haven't heard anyting about the UR flywheel.
-I have the full set (4) of medieval's pullies and love them.
-unorthodox crank pulley vs medieval racing crank pulley. I prefer the stock size of the medieval pulley because it saves a ton of weight without any worry about not spinning the PS pump/ water pump/ alternator enough due to underdriving (which is what the UR pulley does)
-magnecor ignition wires vs nology hotwires are not necessary
-ARP head studs aren't necessary at this point.
-There is currently no supercharger kit for the protege. There are a couple running around, but they're all completely custom. I'm kind of looking into retrofitting a centrifugal style SC kit for a honda to fit our engines. It'll be at least another year though before I can have enough money to get serious.
-Never heard of the SLR chip. Where'd you see it. What does it claim? Where does it hook up?
-The motor mounts that put the least amount of vibrations into the cab are the stock ones from Mazda. If you're looking to reduce wheel hop and increase torque delivery to the ground, you can safely replace the front mount with a solid urethane mount and not have too noticeable vibrations. I noticed a BIG difference in vibrations inside the car after replacing the REAR mm.
Hope that helps. We all love to talk cars and share info with others, so don't be afraid to ask. On the other hand, like culridr stated a lot of the info you'll need has already been answered. Just look around and try the search function. Some times it gets you what you want, other times, not so much. lol
