Fuel pump confusion

oh_yeams6

Member
:
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT
So I need to upgrade my fuel pump. From reading, it looks like you upgrade the "internals"
The companies that do so are PT-Performance and KMD v2.1 kit

Is upgrading the internals what is needed for a fuel pump upgrade? Or is there something else?
Also, has PtP gone up in price, its 350? vs KMD 300 vs CPE 600

Any input on how-to, quality for each company, ect.. appreciated!
 
KMD internals have been on backorder forever. If you ask how long "2 weeks" here's a link anyways:
http://www.kmdtuning.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1153

Autotech has a comparable internals kit that some have had success with. $399msrp, I think I've seen it as low as $340 shipped. in stock some places (maybe)
http://andrewsxtremetuning.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1671 $323 + s/h (reported out of stock even though it says "2 in stock")
http://www.namotorsports.net/detail.cfm/part_cd/AT10.127.100K ($399, backordered til 4/8)
http://www.ctsturbo.com/products/Autotech_FSI_High_Pressure_Fuel_Pump_Upgrade_Kit-463-24.html ($399, backordered til 4/30)
may be possible to get one of the 399 guys off their price a bit if you mention it's cheaper elsewhere.

PTP, not sure if they are actually still selling or not, but some people had failures due a possible machining defect or some such. Not a significant enough discount to risk it IMO.

These internals kits are the same as are used in the VW/Audi 2.0T platform, that's what they are mostly marketed as.

CPE fuel pump requires a core charge (~400!) initially and you get that back (hopefully)

Corksport is working on a direct replacement, no core. out by summer? or so. $599 price tag is what they're throwing around, no core charge, keep your stock pump.

I've exhausted my 'knowledge' such as it is...just so happens you caught me while I was researching the same part.
 
With your current setup (are you tuned at all?) I'd say your pump is probably at its limit. If you aren't noticing any huge drops in fuel pressure in your logs then you are fine.
Once you start adding more power, you'll need the internals.

In addition to all those other vendors talk to Steve @ http://versatune.net I think he still has some internals left and from my understanding he has had some great success with those.
 
A dip under 1600 is probably nothing to worry about, once you getting into the 1500 and below range you start putting your injectors into a point where they do not create a well atomized mist into the cylinder. This can cause problems leading to detonation and potentially a complete failure of your connecting rods due to excessive stress.

I have actually been in talks with john at ptp and he has been telling me that they are still around and that any person who has had a problem with the internals has been willing to give a full refund to anyone as long as the defective internals are returned. This is what he said via email to me and that no longer do they have any internals that are from a bad batch and all are said to be good once again.

He also said that they are in works of creating a unit and fuel rail which they want to hold 8k of fuel pressure. i called bulls*** on this but its still in dream phases as he claims the stock rail and check valve only like 1700-1800 psi before things start to crack and the check valve fails.

So if your still wanting to choose a unit i would do some more research on ptp as they are still recovering from a few users who are all over and have spread the ptfail train like wildfire. I have noticed some people even not having had a single ptp piece rag and flame them till they are blue in the face.

So do your research, i recommended picking a company that has had the best success for each respective part. IDN if cpe has yet had a complete pump fail, or if kmd has yet to have an internals kit fail.
So based on that i recommended cpe for the entire tested pump, and kmd for the internals kit.
I might take the plunge this summer after i buy a second vehicle and pick up a ptp stage 2 pump and see how things pan out. MIGHT being the key word...
 
I'd worry about dropping below 1600. Honestly, I'd say that if you aren't seeing 1700 psi consistently at WOT, it's time to start thinking about a new pump. I'm currently on my 3rd failed pump.

I'd go with either the KMD internals or the Autotechs. That's going to be your best option. IMO, the CP-E pump is a rip off. The other thing that you've got to consider with them is their core charge. With the core charge + shipping, you're looking at a charge of $1000+. It's also up to them if they're going to refund you for your core. If they deem your core not worthy, they can decide that they don't want to refund you.

As far as fuel rail... There's no way in hell that we need a new fuel rail. The only thing that we need currently is an upgraded relief valve. On MSF, there's a bunch of us who have a failed relief valve, and it's causing all sorts of havoc. We've got a member who made an upgraded one, but it's not been tested and verified yet. I'm replacing mine with a stock one as a bandaid. It's a sucky solution, but it's what we've gotta do for now.

The other important thing for upping the fuel pressure is the fuel pressure sensor. We should be seeing new tables in the next release of ATR for scaling the fuel pressure, so that should give us mostly what we need for fuel related items.

The other two things that no one is sure about yet are injectors and the in tank pump. I think the in tank pump should be fine for quite a while, but we'll see. I'm pretty close to maxing the injectors out, so I need to start thinking about how to get upgraded injectors.

Anyway, I'm rambling off topic.

Get Autotech or KMD would be my suggestion
 
KMD JUST got a batch, too bad they had pre orders in. Call them and see if anyone bailed out of it. it also went up to 329$
 
I have a weird question:

I have been experiencing some fuel cuts and lean spots with the current mods I am running.
I.E. MS CAI, FMIC, Cobb DP, AP stage 2+
I had the joy of experiencing some bucking and gradual loss of power. I contacted Cobb with my data logs and they told me I would most likely need a few pump because they could see the pressure drop down and the fuel injector duty cycle maxing out trying to make up the difference. They currently sent me a beta map with a lower boost and fuel curve which has completely taken away the bucking but I am still dealing with a car that now feels slower than stock. My CP-e HPFpump is on it's way and I am hoping it will solve the issue.

The weird this is that I have noticed the car performs very differently when there is less gas in the tank. Right now I have less than an eighth of a tank and the car is performing like it should. Is it easier for the FP to hold pressure with less gas in the tank? Why would this be making a difference?
 

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