BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Front suspension work - What to replace?
- Thread starter BenjiHoggi
- Start date
The BFG G-Force A/S are great tires. I have them in one of my Miatas and it's almost as being on a RR track. I had the Michelins before but I blew one out running over a rock in a mountain road and was unable to locate 4 the size I needed in short order so I went with the BFG's.
Problem with Costco, at least in the US, is that they will reluctantly only go a +1 over OEM size and often refuse to install tires in aftermarket wheels if they different size from OEM.
Here's an idea: before disassembling the tie rod ends, scribe a mark at the center of the front of the tie rod end. Measure as close as possible the distance between tie rod ends.
Now scribe a mark on the NEW tie rod ends as close location as the old ones.
Install new ones and measure the distance, adjust as needed.... Can be done with car on jack stands or standing on the ground.
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
This is great to hear, I've read tons of reviews and they say that the tires perform well but can be a bit loud and don't always last the longest. Tradeoffs i'm willing to make though.
Seriously though, Costco is going to be a snob about stock tire size?!? That would really suck, because the smallest R16 Comp-2 BFG makes is a 205/50, which should technically be fine on the stock wheel, right?
Edit: My new wheels are Mazda OEM and the same size spec-for-spec as the stock P5 wheels, but would they still refuse to put a 205 onto a 6.5" width tire?
My thought exactly. I will take a look when I'm back under there and see how bad it is.
The nut that holds the outer tie rod end in place has a torque spec for it in the manual. Does someone sell a tool to do that (like a torque crescent wrench)? I know the shop will tighten it up after doing the alignment so i'm not going to bother with it, but what's generally recommended if you don't happen to own a shop like me?
That's what my summer tires are.
(my winters are 15" rims.)
Keep in mind that they are slightly bigger tires and your speedometer will under-read by about 3%.
There's a lot more tire choices in that size.
It is hard to tell.
You can't run a tape measure across the back of the tire because the engine bay is in the way.
You're supposed to measure the toe-in level at axle height from the front and back of the tire.
Just crank it tight.
I rarely use a torque wrench.
If you have a torque wrench, you can use it to get a feel of what 67-98 feels like.
Ohh... And use two wrenches to tighten the lock nut.
If you just crank on the lock nut, you'll put all kinds of pressure on the ball joint in the outer tie rod.
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BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
I spent some time double checking all the torque specs on my suspension parts today, having put some more miles on everything. Nothing was out of spec which is great. Wanted to do it before getting an alignment, which is next on my list.
While the car was on jackstands, I put the keys in the ignition and moved the wheels from lock to lock manually with my hands, and I was able to reproduce the clunking noise that I hear when turning the steering wheel to full lock. It's like a rattling or vibration that continues for a second after you hit full lock, and it's quite pronounced with the car off and sitting beside it moving the wheel. Everything that I replaced appears to be tight like I said, but one thing that occurred to me that I haven't checked is the mount for the power steering rack. Does this sound like a reasonable culprit for the noise?
Does anybody have any experience with this sort of thing, or know how to inspect and/or change the mount? I see what it looks like in the shop manuals, but I have yet to go out and take a look. I'll probably go do that now, and see what I can find.
While the car was on jackstands, I put the keys in the ignition and moved the wheels from lock to lock manually with my hands, and I was able to reproduce the clunking noise that I hear when turning the steering wheel to full lock. It's like a rattling or vibration that continues for a second after you hit full lock, and it's quite pronounced with the car off and sitting beside it moving the wheel. Everything that I replaced appears to be tight like I said, but one thing that occurred to me that I haven't checked is the mount for the power steering rack. Does this sound like a reasonable culprit for the noise?
Does anybody have any experience with this sort of thing, or know how to inspect and/or change the mount? I see what it looks like in the shop manuals, but I have yet to go out and take a look. I'll probably go do that now, and see what I can find.
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Are your CV joints good? They can click at full lock, but normally only under movement
The steering rack mount is going to be reeeeeal fun to get at with the motor in the waymight be best to go from the underside with the car on stands
I got some help with moving the wheels by hand to simulate the noise while I was under the car to listen, and It didn't appear to be the steering rack or mounts that were making any noise. CV axles would make a lot of sense as the culprit, and the sound seemed to be coming from one side. That or it's something internal to the rack, though that seems unlikely.
It's not something that effects driveability at all, just makes me a bit nervous not knowing what it was coming from. I guess i'll leave it be unless it causes issues.
Edit: I should mention that yes, my CV axles look good on the outside with no tears or anything like that, so I will assume they're fine unless there is some other failure indicator I don't know of.
Thanks for the help
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
Bumping my own thread.
Pulled the front wheels off recently for unrelated reasons and saw that my outer tie rod end and swaybar link boots were torn or tearing, with grease was coming out. It's been about 4k miles and a few months since I did the work, which is why I'm concerned. I greased all parts to the best of my ability (using a terrible mess of a cheapo harbor freight grease gun) but I'm wondering if the grease I used degraded the rubber maybe? I think it was general purpose chassis grease or something like that. I've attached some photos below...anybody have thoughts?
I don't hate doing this stuff, but I do hate the idea of redoing it, then needing an alignment again, then also the fact that I have a shake in my steering which I don't think is alignment/balance/wheel related but I would then want to fix at the same time, more money and time commitment yada yada yada.... As a semi-novice at working on my own car, the whole thing just bums me out.
Pulled the front wheels off recently for unrelated reasons and saw that my outer tie rod end and swaybar link boots were torn or tearing, with grease was coming out. It's been about 4k miles and a few months since I did the work, which is why I'm concerned. I greased all parts to the best of my ability (using a terrible mess of a cheapo harbor freight grease gun) but I'm wondering if the grease I used degraded the rubber maybe? I think it was general purpose chassis grease or something like that. I've attached some photos below...anybody have thoughts?
I don't hate doing this stuff, but I do hate the idea of redoing it, then needing an alignment again, then also the fact that I have a shake in my steering which I don't think is alignment/balance/wheel related but I would then want to fix at the same time, more money and time commitment yada yada yada.... As a semi-novice at working on my own car, the whole thing just bums me out.
That sucks.
I'm thinking that's possible but the joints are designed to be greased, and if you are only supposed to use a certain type of grease, then they should make it clear in the instructions.
If you can't get replacement boots and need to replace everything, you might consider just leaving it as it is.
If you regularly pump fresh grease into the joint, it will push out any dirt and water and do an OK job of sealing the joint.
You may as well just drive it until they start showing signs of wear.
I'm thinking that's possible but the joints are designed to be greased, and if you are only supposed to use a certain type of grease, then they should make it clear in the instructions.
If you can't get replacement boots and need to replace everything, you might consider just leaving it as it is.
If you regularly pump fresh grease into the joint, it will push out any dirt and water and do an OK job of sealing the joint.
You may as well just drive it until they start showing signs of wear.
It's kind of too late now, but I found this stuff...
BenjiHoggi
OEM+
- :
- Oregon, USA
- :
- 22v Protege5
This is what I'm thinking I'll do, for now. Maybe checking in on them occasionally and eventually replacing.
Oh that's a great idea. I don't remember what brand the tie rods were, but the endlinks were Moog, and I've heard good things about them. I might just try and ask their support and also see if I can get replacement parts for if I do want to replace stuff again down the road. I did the work myself and all I've lost is time and money for parts. It took a while but now I could do it again much quicker because I've done it before.
Thank you both, lots of good thoughts here. I'll probably pursue the route of contacting support and seeing what they have as an explanation, and if they'll send me new ones. Worth a shot.
Just keep pumping new grease in them now.
Let it build up.
It helps stop water and dirt penetration.
Just don't get a glob big enough to fling off and end up on your rotors.
In the meantime, you can order some silicone grease to use on your replacements, If they send you new ones.
The grease is dielectric and can be used on all rubber and even on your light bulbs, battery terminals, and maybe your brakes?
It works great on suspension bushings too.
katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
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- Dallas, TX
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- 2003 Protege5
I replaced my rear end links today as they have been torn for years (original parts that came with the car; I should have replaced them when I replaced the struts). I used genuine Mazda parts based in part on your experience and because they were only $30+ apiece. Edit: That's not a whole lot more than the $20+ a decent end link goes for on rockauto.com.
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katapaltes
'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
- :
- Dallas, TX
- :
- 2003 Protege5
Bought two genuine Mazda front end links yesterday for only $20 apiece on eBay. There are two left in stock if anyone here is interested. Mine will arrive in a few days.
Note the caveat, but I don't think they'll be so old that the boots are dried up or anything. I mean, even rockauto.com buys up surplus parts don't they?
"We are a surplus wholesale dealer. All our parts are (NEW OTHER) unless otherwise specified.
"The majority of our parts are left over merchandise from closed auto parts stores and manufactures that are no longer in business. These items, although NEW, are not always crispy clean like you would purchase from your local retailer. They may have been in storage anywhere from 1-30 years. Rubber parts, gaskets, hardware may need to be replaced and may not be useable. There may be minor corrosion, scuffs, torn or missing boxes, scratches from storage, etc., none of which makes the part Defective."
Update: Genuine Mazda parts (included stickers) arrived yesterday and are in good shape. Two units still left in stock at the link above.
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Mazda part number LC6234170B. All our parts are (NEW OTHER) unless otherwise specified. They may have been in storage anywhere from 1-30 years. Rubber parts, gaskets, hardware may need to be replaced and may not be useable.
www.ebay.com
Note the caveat, but I don't think they'll be so old that the boots are dried up or anything. I mean, even rockauto.com buys up surplus parts don't they?
"We are a surplus wholesale dealer. All our parts are (NEW OTHER) unless otherwise specified.
"The majority of our parts are left over merchandise from closed auto parts stores and manufactures that are no longer in business. These items, although NEW, are not always crispy clean like you would purchase from your local retailer. They may have been in storage anywhere from 1-30 years. Rubber parts, gaskets, hardware may need to be replaced and may not be useable. There may be minor corrosion, scuffs, torn or missing boxes, scratches from storage, etc., none of which makes the part Defective."
Update: Genuine Mazda parts (included stickers) arrived yesterday and are in good shape. Two units still left in stock at the link above.
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Yep best to get done in one go. Make sure they have a laser alignment lift and when your work is finished, with new tyres, they can do a proper alignment on the entire vehicle with correct toe and camber. That's the finishing touch these cars shine from.
-Fully Assembled Strut Assemblies and Noise-
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF) - I normally make a isolation/damper gasket to go on top of a New fully-assembled strut assembly to reduce/eliminate metal-to-metal contact between the top of the strut and underbody surface where the strut plugs in.
(Fully assembled strut assemblies normally don't include this gasket/sheet for mounting).
I noticed when replacing the OEM P5s strut assemblies, between the top and underbody mounting surface there was a paper-thin piece of clear plastic ("Sheet" - see illustration below) for this mounting and I used that sheet as a template to make strut gaskets of sorts using (about 1/16" thick) peel-and-stick rubberized window and door flashing to act as a isolation/vibration damper for this area - (see photo below).
---Why?---
I first noticed a obvious metal-to-metal thumping noise right after installing new fully assembled strut assemblies on the front of my old 2000 Maxima. Back then, I used regular (about 1/8" thick) gasket material sheet strut gaskets between the struts and the car's underbody. The isolation/damper gasket cleared up the noise.
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF) - I normally make a isolation/damper gasket to go on top of a New fully-assembled strut assembly to reduce/eliminate metal-to-metal contact between the top of the strut and underbody surface where the strut plugs in.
(Fully assembled strut assemblies normally don't include this gasket/sheet for mounting).
I noticed when replacing the OEM P5s strut assemblies, between the top and underbody mounting surface there was a paper-thin piece of clear plastic ("Sheet" - see illustration below) for this mounting and I used that sheet as a template to make strut gaskets of sorts using (about 1/16" thick) peel-and-stick rubberized window and door flashing to act as a isolation/vibration damper for this area - (see photo below).
---Why?---
I first noticed a obvious metal-to-metal thumping noise right after installing new fully assembled strut assemblies on the front of my old 2000 Maxima. Back then, I used regular (about 1/8" thick) gasket material sheet strut gaskets between the struts and the car's underbody. The isolation/damper gasket cleared up the noise.
