FMIC / CAI installation issues

[NCoppersmith]

I bought a used 2003 Protege all tricked out earlier this summer. Guy got sick of working on it, bought a house, etc. Had/has a few issues that I'm working on, unfortunately there's no records and I'm not a mechanic. But I can read and follow instructions, if I have them.

It has an iON performance FMIC (at least I think it's iON, it's not marked, so I don't know) and an iNJEN CAI. In an effort to get the thing working right a couple things got changed that are probably incorrect, but I need some input.

Right now, the CAI is a short ram setup (I think that's what you call it) basically just a pipe from the turbo with the air filter sitting in the engine bay. The FMIC has piping that runs through the spot in front of the wheel where the pictures have normal CAI filters, so I'm guessing thats why the owner did a short ram. Right now, the MAFS is installed on one of the FMIC pipes near the BOV. All the pictures I've seen (even with the short ram) have the MAFS installed on the CAI. Is this a viable setup?

Also there used to be a rubber hose that ran from the side of the CAI up to the side of the engine block, about 10mm in diameter. A mechanic in an effort to be helpful, removed the tube, put a tiny air filter on the engine block side and clamped off the tube on the CAI, saying that the CAI was sucking exhaust fumes and oil and what not into the turbo causing it to run poorly and causing multiple cylinder misfires. (which it's still doing, as the check engine light still stays on)

There's a boost gauge on the steering column that reports at idle a vacuum of greater than 10 but less than 15, which I believe from doing research indicates a vacuum issue as it should be closer to 20 at idle, is that correct?

Any help you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated, I love this car and would like to get it roadworthy, but I'm lost under the hood and iON wants $75 for a manual for the FMIC just for starters.

 

[MSP2k3]

It would help to have a picture of your engine bay, but it sounds like your MAF is relocated, which is fine if done right. Alot of members do what your mechanic did by putting a filter on the side of the engine instead of the hose... but that won't fix the misfire problems. If your boost gauge is reading 10-15 then you probably have a vacuum leak, which can cause all sorts of problems. I would try and find the vacuum leak and get that fixed and see if that fixes your problems. If you post up a picture of your engine bay people could help you out a bit more.

 

[dmention7]

+1 on the vacuum leak. That would explain both the low idle vacuum and the engine running poorly. The hose from the valve cover to the intake wasn't likely causing any problems, but your mechanic's "fix" should work just fine.

Double check all the intake/intercooler connections, and all vacuum lines. Remove the MAFS and give it a good cleaning (CRC makes a spray cleaner specifically for MAF sensors). Couldn't hurt to replace the spark plugs also, as they could well be fouled up. Just get cheap copper NGK plugs, none of the platinum or iridium plugs.

Also, a couple pics of the engine bay would indeed be helpful in making sure everything is located/routed correctly. And screw that $75 manual! lol...

 

[NCoppersmith]

Pictures...

Ok, the engine is a high performance rebuild that has about 9k miles on. (and this is all hearsay from the original owner, again I have no documentation whatsoever) The body has about 66k on it. I replaced the spark plugs when I got it, and they're clean as a whistle. (that's one of the few things I do know how to do) Here's a couple of pics of the engine bay...you can't see from the pictures but the coolant system is a mess, I laughed when I saw the fans zip tied to the chassis, which makes me question the sanity of the person doing the mods.

 

[KrayzieFox]

You definitely have a vacuum leak. Your vacuum should be 18 at the lowest, 20-24 optimal.

As far as the intake and FMIC setup goes, it's totally legit. I have mine setup the exact same way, and have zero issues with it. What he did was the MAF relocation, which moves the MAF from the intake to the cold pipe of the FMIC but people usually do that so they can install a BOV before the MAF that will vent to atmosphere, instead of recirculating like the stock BPV does. And from the looks of it, the previous owner simply unplugged the other end of the BPV and is allowing it to vent to atm instead.. not sure how effective that is.

I would probably start by locating the vacuum leak first and that will probably fix a lot of your issues. You have a pretty significant leak if your vacuum is reading 10-15 in Hg, and vacuum leaks are pretty much the downfall of our cars. Check ALL the vacuum lines going to and from the intake manifold. Make sure they're not cracked and that they're on securely. Also, I don't see the IAT sensor anywhere.. it should be in the intake pipe. It comes off the MAF wiring harness, so just follow it and see where it leads to. It's a small anchor looking sensor that goes into a rubber grommet located on the intake pipe.


EDIT: I've attached a picture of my setup. It's essentially the same thing. Short ram intake with just a filter and aluminum pipe going to the turbo (the IAT sensor is also in the intake), and a BOV right before the MAF on the cold pipe (you have the stock BPV instead), and just a small breather filter on the valve cover instead of the tube going to the intake. My car runs fine, and my vacuum at idle is 18 in Hg. I also have a leak.. but as massive as yours.

 

[NCoppersmith]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll get the vacuum leak checked and see what it does for me. You can't see it from the pictures, but I just went out and checked and the far end of the BPV connects into the lower part of the CAI. (at least I think that's what the BPV is, it's the little round metal thing with the black arrow on it in the 2nd picture, correct?)

 

[sandspeed]

please replace the air filter before you do anything else!

 

[NCoppersmith]

What's wrong with the air filter? (aside from being ugly and a little dinged up in spots) The picture may make it look dirty but it's actually quite clean, I got one of those K&N filter cleaning kits and made sure it wasn't choked up or anything.

 

[Jaysanooch]

Few things you can do...first would be to fix the open end on the bpv.

I drew over your pictures to show you how and where that open end should attach. You can route it better for sure...but the important part is the direction. The arrow on the bpv is there for a reason and it tells you to direct it towards the intake pipe. It should be attached to it and that's the way it recirculates. Makes this car run alot better.

Try it out...and get back to us. You can ghetto style it for now with some garden hose etc...but I suggest you buy some proper silicone tubbing.

 

[dmention7]

With the MAF sensor located to the cold pipe, there is no need to recirculate the air back to the intake.

Honestly, using the stock BPV as a makeshift BOV is pretty ghetto. I'd suggest purchasing a proper BOV and having your mechanic weld a flange onto the pipe where the BPV is currently attached. Really, it can be anywhere between the turbo and the MAFS, but the ideal location is between the intercooler and the MAFS, and at least 6-8 inches ahead of the MAFS.

 

[KrayzieFox]

+1 on the ghetto. I didn't wanna say it, but it's exactly what I was thinking. Get a nice BOV instead, or install the intake the way it should be installed and recirculate the BPV. If you get a new CAI, then you'll need to move the MAF back to where your filter is now.

But I honestly think the majority of your issues is coming from that vacuum leak. Inspect the vacuum hoses first and see if you can find any leaks anywhere. Pay close attention to the spot where the previous owner installed the boost gauge, judging by the rest of the engine bay.. I imagine he probably didn't do such a good job tapping the vacuum source for the gauge.

 

[MSP2k3]

Im pretty sure that BPV is already hooked up to the pipe that comes off the injen...looks that way in the pic and thats what he said in an earlier post. As long as its not leaking the way he has his BPV setup should be fine. Just need to find those vacuum leaks.

 

[NCoppersmith]

Ok, the BPV is hooked up, I've edited the photo so you can see what I'm seeing.

1. The bottom part of the BPV, it's connected to the FMIC.
2. The top part of the BPV, the arrow is pointing to the back of the engine bay (I'm assuming that this is correct, air would flow from the intercooler, to whatever it is in the back (what is that part called anyway?) The black elbow goes down and then connects to...
3. The underside of the CAI which has a 6 in or so metal tube which has a hose connecting to the BPV. My understanding would be that the BPV would be venting air into the CAI if I follow the arrows and understand BPV operation correctly.

The air system is a closed circuit. There's no venting to atmosphere via the BPV as it currently stands. I'd like to get the HKS SSQV BOV, would I remove the BPV and simply put the BOV in it's place? I'd like to have this stuff done professionally, but I haven't been able to find a place in West Michigan that does custom auto tuning or anything like that.

(of course this would wait until the vacuum leak is fixed)

 

[MSP2k3]

yes, the way you have it setup is correct. Since your MAF is already relocated to the cold pipe, you could take the BPV off and replace it with an HKS.. just cap off the pipe leading to the CAI.

 

[ItsSlow]

The way the bpv is setup could be the reason why you have a vac leak in the first place.. Do a boost leak test and find out..
Heres a boost leak tester..
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=158&osCsid=f5fd1c8da8c95a0eef2c963a981df8be

 

[TheMAN]

good performance or not, what I would do is start by putting the MAF and BPV setup back to what it was supposed to be... MAF at the filter, and BPV doing what it's supposed to do.... get rid of the ghetto caps and the stupid breather filter... run the hose back to the intake... THEN when it's working right, start screwing it up then

 

[KrayzieFox]

^+1 on that advice.

That was gonna be my advice as well. Just put it back to stock setup and see how it works. If the car doesn't run right under stock conditions, then it for sure won't run right otherwise.

 

[khaosman]

I'd also say if you make changes like that, be sure to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (negative terminal) and pressing down the brake for a few seconds and then reconnecting.

It might not make a difference, but it can't hurt.

 

[dmention7]

To clarify a bit, if you want to put the MAFS back to it's "stock" location, all you need to do is locate the MAFS right between the intake and the filter--you'll need a 2.75" coupler to couple the MAFS to the intake, and then the filter just clamps onto the other end of the MAFS (that's my current setup).

As for the gap where the MAFS is currently located, just get a piece of 2.75" aluminum tubing the same length as the MAFS.


Also, yeah, sorry about the BPV thing... from the first pic, it looked like the other end of the BPV was just open to the atmosphere.

 

[KrayzieFox]

It does look like it's open.. that's what I assumed as well. I dunno how it's hooked up to recirculate back to the intake, but it doesn't look very secure. That's probably the source of your vacuum leak right there..