The Injen intake has a long tube with 2 90 degree bends for the BPV. If you look at the latest pic he posted, you can see the first bend that turns straight down inside circle #2. It then bends back towards the front of the engine bay and connects to the intake at circle #3. Kind of a convoluted setup, but it seems to work! lol
FMIC / CAI installation issues
- Thread starter NCoppersmith
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NCoppersmith
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- Mazdaspeed Protege 3.5
Thanks for all the input guys! I think for starters I'll do the relocation of the MAFS and hook it up to "spec", the ghetto caps and stuff irritate the perfectionist in me. Then I'll check for vacuum leaks and go from there.
NCoppersmith
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege 3.5
Ok, I spent some time this morning redoing the setup. It's a little ghetto but the auto shops around here are lame. I'll order some real stuff and get it looking all proper when the weather is warmer, right now it's about 20 degrees F and kinda sucks to work on this stuff outside.
I have a steady 15Hg vacuum at idle, so I'll have to get that checked yet. After driving it around for about 10min the CEL came on, P0300, multiple random cylinder misfires. I've had that before as well, basically since I bought the car. (no ones been able to figure it out yet)
There was noticable oil in the FMIC pipes by the couplers and also the CAI by the turbo, is that normal? Not sure where it's coming from, according to the last mechanic the CAI was pulling that in from the engine, hence the cap and breather valve. So I don't know what to think at this point...
I have a steady 15Hg vacuum at idle, so I'll have to get that checked yet. After driving it around for about 10min the CEL came on, P0300, multiple random cylinder misfires. I've had that before as well, basically since I bought the car. (no ones been able to figure it out yet)
There was noticable oil in the FMIC pipes by the couplers and also the CAI by the turbo, is that normal? Not sure where it's coming from, according to the last mechanic the CAI was pulling that in from the engine, hence the cap and breather valve. So I don't know what to think at this point...
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slo03.5msp
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- 03.5 yellow msp
You need to do a compression test and cylinder leakage test. You need to know what your working with from the start. A random misfire could be bad plugs, gas, injector, compression, head gasket, cracked piston ring landing. I don't know if you see what I'm getting at but there are a lot of things that can cause that code. You need to check the health of the motor before going much farther.
KrayzieFox
Member
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- 01 MP3 Turbo
Now that's more like it.. things finally look sorta the way they should (only exception being that half the intake is missing, but that's no big deal). How did that MAF sensor look anyway? Was it pretty clean inside, especially around the little wire sensor. If you decide to clean it, be very careful.. it's will get damaged easily. Get some MAF sensor cleaner and gently spray it in there.
Also, I still can't see where your IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor is at. It's not such a big deal, but it wouldn't hurt to know where the hell it's been stashed away to. Like I mentioned before, it's a little black anchor looking sensor that goes into a rubber grommet on the intake (usually comes before the MAF and goes into the intake pipe that you're missing).
EDIT: Nevermind, I see it in the third pic. It's just chillin unplugged right by the battery tray and right side engine mount..
Also, I still can't see where your IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor is at. It's not such a big deal, but it wouldn't hurt to know where the hell it's been stashed away to. Like I mentioned before, it's a little black anchor looking sensor that goes into a rubber grommet on the intake (usually comes before the MAF and goes into the intake pipe that you're missing).
EDIT: Nevermind, I see it in the third pic. It's just chillin unplugged right by the battery tray and right side engine mount..
Regarding the oil in your FMIC and intake, that is fairly normal. The reason that tube was connected from the intake to the valve cover (the one your mechanic removed) is so that any gasses that build up in the valve cover are vented. Over time, small amounts of oil are going to make their way through that tube into the intake--not really a big deal. The oil in your FMIC pipes could be from the same source, or also oil that's leaking through the turbo seals. A small amount of that is fairly normal as well.
Jaysanooch
Member
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- 2003.5 Msp
Good work man! So how does it run? Better or the same?
Before you tackle the p0300...keep workin' on the vacuum. I'd re-tighten all clamps after a few runs...you'll be surprised. Get a clamp on the intake asap..which I'm sure you know.
Have you checked and tightened the clamps by the fmic couplers?
Before you tackle the p0300...keep workin' on the vacuum. I'd re-tighten all clamps after a few runs...you'll be surprised. Get a clamp on the intake asap..which I'm sure you know.
Have you checked and tightened the clamps by the fmic couplers?
KrayzieFox
Member
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- 01 MP3 Turbo
I dunno about those fancy yellow vacuum lines either.. I'd double check all of them and follow them from end to the other to make sure they didn't crack anywhere. Chances are they're some cheap-o eBay s*** that's made in Pakistan or wherever..
NCoppersmith
Member
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- Mazdaspeed Protege 3.5
Honestly...my perception is that it runs better. It's hard to tell though because the clutch slips, so if I really punch it the engine revs and nothing happens, back off the gas and you can feel the clutch "grab" and it'll go. It has an AEM Stage 3 hybrid clutch (according to the original owner) but I don't know if he got that early on and put it on the engine rebuild, or if he got it new with the engine.
It seems like there's a little hissing going on near the back of the engine, but it's hard to tell...what is the part called that the FMIC piping runs to near the firewall? (LOL I'm ignorant, just now getting into the whole mechanic/tuning thing...broadening my horizons and what not)
And yah on the cheap yellow tubing...It'd be nice to be able to put in hose couplers and stuff the same yellow of the car like those sharp blue ones, but I'm thinking I'll have to go with black.
The lack of a coupler on the CAI to MAFS is part of the ghetto setup, I could not get a 2.75 to 2.75 anywhere, so we warmed up a 2.5 to 2.75, and slid it on...the only way that's coming off is with a knife, so I'm confident there's no leak there. The MAFS was clean as a whistle...it looked brand new. It's just a plastic looking grid thing inside, right? Or do I need to pop the cap off it and check something else?
Anyone know where to get longer than 3" couplers? The connecter for the CAI at the turbo isn't really long enough to get a good seal on both ends, I need like 4 or 5 inches to cover enough pipe I think, even with that thing screwed as tight as possible you can still pull it out by hand without loosening the clamps.
Supposedly the owner did a compression and leakdown and they came back fine.
Pop quiz...anyone know what or why that silver canister with the red nipples was originally for? Right now I think it's a gimmicky overflow for the coolant and it bothers me...any recommendations for a good radiator/coolant system? Mines all mucked up (as you can see).
It seems like there's a little hissing going on near the back of the engine, but it's hard to tell...what is the part called that the FMIC piping runs to near the firewall? (LOL I'm ignorant, just now getting into the whole mechanic/tuning thing...broadening my horizons and what not)
And yah on the cheap yellow tubing...It'd be nice to be able to put in hose couplers and stuff the same yellow of the car like those sharp blue ones, but I'm thinking I'll have to go with black.
The lack of a coupler on the CAI to MAFS is part of the ghetto setup, I could not get a 2.75 to 2.75 anywhere, so we warmed up a 2.5 to 2.75, and slid it on...the only way that's coming off is with a knife, so I'm confident there's no leak there. The MAFS was clean as a whistle...it looked brand new. It's just a plastic looking grid thing inside, right? Or do I need to pop the cap off it and check something else?
Anyone know where to get longer than 3" couplers? The connecter for the CAI at the turbo isn't really long enough to get a good seal on both ends, I need like 4 or 5 inches to cover enough pipe I think, even with that thing screwed as tight as possible you can still pull it out by hand without loosening the clamps.
Supposedly the owner did a compression and leakdown and they came back fine.
Pop quiz...anyone know what or why that silver canister with the red nipples was originally for? Right now I think it's a gimmicky overflow for the coolant and it bothers me...any recommendations for a good radiator/coolant system? Mines all mucked up (as you can see).
First off, the FMIC piping runs to the throttle body toward the back of the motor. The throttle body has a flap (directly connected to the gas pedal by a cable) that opens and closes to control airflow into the motor. It's bolted to the intake manifold. Now, the hissing you hear could be a leak between the throttle body and intake manifold. Removing the TB and cleaning up the mating surfaces isn't a tough job, but you'd probably be better served by replacing all the vacuum lines in the area.
You don't need anything fancy for those lines, just run to the nearest auto parts store and get maybe 15-20' of 5/16" vacuum hose and a mess of small zip-ties. It also looks like the brake booster line has been replaced (it's the hose that attaches to the master cylinder), and that's a 3/8" hose.
Also, that can you're talking about was one of two things--either a coolant overflow like you said, or possibly an oil catch can. A few posts ago, I mentioned that the oil in your intake came from the hose that attached the intake to the valve cover. A catch can is placed inline with that hose so that proper venting of the valve cover is still possible, but any oil that makes its way into that hose drips into the catch can instead of getting into the intake.
You don't need anything fancy for those lines, just run to the nearest auto parts store and get maybe 15-20' of 5/16" vacuum hose and a mess of small zip-ties. It also looks like the brake booster line has been replaced (it's the hose that attaches to the master cylinder), and that's a 3/8" hose.
Also, that can you're talking about was one of two things--either a coolant overflow like you said, or possibly an oil catch can. A few posts ago, I mentioned that the oil in your intake came from the hose that attached the intake to the valve cover. A catch can is placed inline with that hose so that proper venting of the valve cover is still possible, but any oil that makes its way into that hose drips into the catch can instead of getting into the intake.
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