Dynoing near Corky's shop. That way all dynos from stock to now have been done on the same equipment.maczter said:I'd guess (hope) that it would be closer to 320 at the wheels.
Dynoing in Austin or near Corky's shop?
knowledge007 said:lmao...well I am pretty new the modding world of turbo engines. I figure I need to upgrade my lsd to make sure I get all my 100% of my whp to the ground at all times.
What exactly is a live axle up front???
aliennation95gt said:from corksport themselves, thats what they are claiming
http://corksport.com/page/17zl5/Home.html
look under news and anouncments for 1/18/07
i also called them and thats the answer they gave me, but someone else was told with exaust, downpipe, intake and intercooler they saw that. i just read. But thats what they said to me. I was like it sounded high when i talked to them. BUt the kit is to be around 1100 bucks. and it being finished!
The FMIC, in my car, was built and designed by Corky Bell.justa4banger said:^^^ Shouldn't go boom if the a/f is right.
Now about the hood and airducting. If you honestly think that someone at mazda (engineer) didn't put alot of thought into the design of this your crazy.
Has anyone here ever owned a car with a FMIC and did a burnout at the track. Guess what the IC gets heat soaked. Maybe not as bad as the TMIC, but its still heat soaked. the FMIC isn't getting airflow at a stand still and your still pumping hot air through the IC. i know on my SVO the FMIC is QUITE warm after a burnout, yet at the end of a 1/8th mile is ambient temp.
The only way to Effectively illiminate Heat soak is with a AWIC. Whether its a FMIC or a TMIC the only way to make more consistant power is to increase the cores efficency PERIOD. all this talk about hood scoops and what not is just talk.
I can find the proof some where about some testing that was done on my SVO hood design. long story short the scoop is ineffective above 50mph (the scoop looks like that one in the photo of the white hood) from 20-50 mph the scoop has a ram air effect, anything above 55mph the scoop actually SUCKS air out from the engine bay through the scoop. Problem with my SVO is the IC sits right on top of the Turbo, so now its getting Extremely hot air from the turbo passing through the IC and out the hood.
A CO2/nitrous/water sprayer on the core would work well. water is a problem though because most tracks frown on a car leaking water on the track. CO2 and nitrous would be cool but require refills.
IMO unless you go with a better designed Core for the TMIC, a FMIC is not going to gain much. If anything (unless designed Properly) you might loose power do to a higher pressure drop across the IC.
Pressure drop is also VERY important as i have tested 2 Cores on my SVO both with same outside dimensions. Difference was one had endtanks on the ends (like most ebay IC's) and my new one is like a procharger style with end tanks on the top and bottom.
what did i gain? well lets see old numbers were 322whp and 346 wtrq at 26psi boost and 30* total timing. new setup (no other changes) gave me 324whp and 380wtrq on 24 psi and 27* total timing.
Pressure drop MAKES A DIFFERENCE. Suggested reading material would be cork bells turbo book. It will enlighten you on how things REALLY work.
justa4banger said:^^^ Shouldn't go boom if the a/f is right.
Now about the hood and airducting. If you honestly think that someone at mazda (engineer) didn't put alot of thought into the design of this your crazy.
Has anyone here ever owned a car with a FMIC and did a burnout at the track. Guess what the IC gets heat soaked. Maybe not as bad as the TMIC, but its still heat soaked. the FMIC isn't getting airflow at a stand still and your still pumping hot air through the IC. i know on my SVO the FMIC is QUITE warm after a burnout, yet at the end of a 1/8th mile is ambient temp.
The only way to Effectively illiminate Heat soak is with a AWIC. Whether its a FMIC or a TMIC the only way to make more consistant power is to increase the cores efficency PERIOD. all this talk about hood scoops and what not is just talk.
I can find the proof some where about some testing that was done on my SVO hood design. long story short the scoop is ineffective above 50mph (the scoop looks like that one in the photo of the white hood) from 20-50 mph the scoop has a ram air effect, anything above 55mph the scoop actually SUCKS air out from the engine bay through the scoop. Problem with my SVO is the IC sits right on top of the Turbo, so now its getting Extremely hot air from the turbo passing through the IC and out the hood.
A CO2/nitrous/water sprayer on the core would work well. water is a problem though because most tracks frown on a car leaking water on the track. CO2 and nitrous would be cool but require refills.
IMO unless you go with a better designed Core for the TMIC, a FMIC is not going to gain much. If anything (unless designed Properly) you might loose power do to a higher pressure drop across the IC.
Pressure drop is also VERY important as i have tested 2 Cores on my SVO both with same outside dimensions. Difference was one had endtanks on the ends (like most ebay IC's) and my new one is like a procharger style with end tanks on the top and bottom.
what did i gain? well lets see old numbers were 322whp and 346 wtrq at 26psi boost and 30* total timing. new setup (no other changes) gave me 324whp and 380wtrq on 24 psi and 27* total timing.
Pressure drop MAKES A DIFFERENCE. Suggested reading material would be cork bells turbo book. It will enlighten you on how things REALLY work.
justa4banger said:^^^ Shouldn't go boom if the a/f is right.
Now about the hood and airducting. If you honestly think that someone at mazda (engineer) didn't put alot of thought into the design of this your crazy.
Has anyone here ever owned a car with a FMIC and did a burnout at the track. Guess what the IC gets heat soaked. Maybe not as bad as the TMIC, but its still heat soaked. the FMIC isn't getting airflow at a stand still and your still pumping hot air through the IC. i know on my SVO the FMIC is QUITE warm after a burnout, yet at the end of a 1/8th mile is ambient temp.
The only way to Effectively illiminate Heat soak is with a AWIC. Whether its a FMIC or a TMIC the only way to make more consistant power is to increase the cores efficency PERIOD. all this talk about hood scoops and what not is just talk.
I can find the proof some where about some testing that was done on my SVO hood design. long story short the scoop is ineffective above 50mph (the scoop looks like that one in the photo of the white hood) from 20-50 mph the scoop has a ram air effect, anything above 55mph the scoop actually SUCKS air out from the engine bay through the scoop. Problem with my SVO is the IC sits right on top of the Turbo, so now its getting Extremely hot air from the turbo passing through the IC and out the hood.
A CO2/nitrous/water sprayer on the core would work well. water is a problem though because most tracks frown on a car leaking water on the track. CO2 and nitrous would be cool but require refills.
IMO unless you go with a better designed Core for the TMIC, a FMIC is not going to gain much. If anything (unless designed Properly) you might loose power do to a higher pressure drop across the IC.
Pressure drop is also VERY important as i have tested 2 Cores on my SVO both with same outside dimensions. Difference was one had endtanks on the ends (like most ebay IC's) and my new one is like a procharger style with end tanks on the top and bottom.
what did i gain? well lets see old numbers were 322whp and 346 wtrq at 26psi boost and 30* total timing. new setup (no other changes) gave me 324whp and 380wtrq on 24 psi and 27* total timing.
Pressure drop MAKES A DIFFERENCE. Suggested reading material would be cork bells turbo book. It will enlighten you on how things REALLY work.
justa4banger said:Oh last thing designs of IC isn't that important with lower boosted apps, 5-10psi. the pressure isn't enough to make a difference but with HIGHER boosted apps its make s a difference expotentially. Since our cars already run 16 psi and most are going to 18psi, the difference in core effeciency is VERY important. Raise that boost number some more and well IC Cores have to be able to FLOW air.
none of the FMIC i have seen tested really impress me. if anything theres no gain your just able to SUSTAIN the power you should be making anyways.
300whp from a 2.3 shouldn't be difficult, hell my SVO is a 2.3 with only 8 valves and i make over 300whp.
Now my question to everyone in the quest for more power.......... HOW do you plan on sticking the power to the ground?? Check my sig.
1967abarth said:Price and ordering information for BEGi FMIC available on their site.
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_MazdaSpeed3_parts.html
voiceKoi said:Also did they use steel for the pipiing? It looks like it, if so Im curious why, its easier to weld I guess, any other reason?