flywheel or roll bar?

umm...other mods... full exhaust with awr header..cai... ss brake and clutch lines, ksports, rims, short shifter, thats pretty much all the performance stuff.

i dont drive like an ass on streets...just sometimes fast on the interstate when nobody is around. otherwise im pretty much a granny.

yea i am using my harness on the street cause the other one does not do s*** with the momo seat. that is why i was seriously considering the roll bar.
 
That'll just make more people use sub-par harness setups. There is a reason NASA has an "all or nothing" attitude regarding replacement of OEM safety equipment. You either get a fixed back FIA/braced seat, 5+pt harness and rollover protection, or you don't change any of it.

I'd get a 7 or 9lb flywheel.
 
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I personally wuoldn't recommend a flywheel in a n/a situation, you just lose initial torque coming out of turns. for road racing, yes, but not for autocross. yes it will rev faster once you get it spinning, but you lose the inertia of the spinning flywheel when you put in the clutch or decelerate, so it will actually take longer to get back into the power band. With your header and your exhaust, you've probably lost low end torque already.

I would take the money and buy tires or swaybars first before either of the other items.

Britt
 
so loss of low end power, quicker reving, smoother down shifting, and everything else a plus. hmmm i think a flywheel still sounds good to me.
 
iracemine said:
so loss of low end power, quicker reving, smoother down shifting, and everything else a plus. hmmm i think a flywheel still sounds good to me.
Click to expand...

We are talking about autocrossing here. and it's not quicker revving until the inertial breaking point, before that (which is usually below the powerband) you will lose torque. as far as smoother downshifting? explain this to me, because this is all technique plain and simple.

The AWR header is a 4-2-1 so you may have retained your torque, I was thinking it was a 4-1. But typically the larger exhaust will lose torque.

Britt
 
Go with the flywheel.

I put an 8lb flywheel (factory is 18 lb) in my Saturn autox car. I may have lost a little bit of low end grunt, but it's only noticeable at the starting line. Everywhere else on course it revs faster.

Let's put it this way- when I had the factory flywheel in the car, I would always be fighting with a guy in an SVT Contour for 1st place in STS. The margin for victory would be in the 1/10ths of a second. Then I took everything out of my interior and I added the lighweight flywheel and ACT 6 puck race clutch but retained my STS tires and now I'm beating the Contour by 1.5 seconds or more. Some of that time could have come from the stripped interior, but I think most of it came from the flywheel.

FLYWHEEL!
 
you're beating him, but definately not in the same class anymore...
 
With the full exhaust you are already classed in Street Prepared where flywheels are allowed. Now...here is the tricky part. If you are already having a problem with tire spin on corner exits the lighter flywheel is only going to make this worse. You might want to consider an LSD first.

With that said, if you are not dead serious about preparing a class spec'ed AutoX car and you would like to do some open trackday stuff get rollbar. That's the one thing I'm bummed about right now. I'm too concerned about overall weight in my Pro5 to run a rollbar, but that means I have to use my stock seatbelt which doesn't really work right in the Momo seats.
 
xelderx said:
With the full exhaust you are already classed in Street Prepared where flywheels are allowed. Now...here is the tricky part. If you are already having a problem with tire spin on corner exits the lighter flywheel is only going to make this worse. You might want to consider an LSD first.

With that said, if you are not dead serious about preparing a class spec'ed AutoX car and you would like to do some open trackday stuff get rollbar. That's the one thing I'm bummed about right now. I'm too concerned about overall weight in my Pro5 to run a rollbar, but that means I have to use my stock seatbelt which doesn't really work right in the Momo seats.
Click to expand...
i could put the stock midpipe back in and have a stock exhaust (wtih awr header). would i still be in street prepared?

also what sway bar might you suggest? is the progress good? (i have adj endlinks) or is the awr really that much better? oh im getting low_psi's trailing arms when he finnaly releases them.
 
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justanotheradikt said:
i could put the stock midpipe back in and have a stock exhaust (wtih awr header). would i still be in street prepared?

also what sway bar might you suggest? is the progress good? (i have adj endlinks) or is the awr really that much better? oh im getting low_psi's trailing arms when he finnaly releases them.
Click to expand...

The header is what puts you in SP so changing the midpipe won't make a difference. I have the 21.5mm AWR bar and love it, but I haven't had any chance to compare it to other options. For AutoX it made the most difference for the least amount of money. If you get the trailing arms they will move you to Street Modified. The lateral links are legal where you are at now, but not trailing links.
 
xelderx said:
The header is what puts you in SP so changing the midpipe won't make a difference. I have the 21.5mm AWR bar and love it, but I haven't had any chance to compare it to other options.
Click to expand...

I'd be interested in seeing how some of the other bars and evolv's clunk fix bracket compare to the AWR bar.

I also suggest the flywheel. Get a clutch while you are at it though :D
 
If you're running in SP, don't bother with the flywheel yet... You have plenty of other things you can do that will make more of a noticeable difference....
 
i 2nd the rear sway bar. I love my AWR. What struts are you running?
 
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