09MazdaRacing
Member
- :
- 2009 Mazdaspeed 3
Ok guys need some insight. I have a choice between Cobb and rp,dp from turbo xs. Or Cobb with short ram intake(mazdaspeed) and bpv(turbosmart). I was just wondering what ya'll would do.
First Mods
- Thread starter 09MazdaRacing
- Start date
- :
- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
A RMM, shifter bushings, and a 5ch amp
mazdaspeedGhali
Member
i have the cobb short ram and I swear by it. its CARB approved if thats a concern to you
OP's post is a little difficult for me to understand. Cobb what? Cobb intake, Cobb downpipe? Cobb Access Port? Is the reference to Turbo XS just the dp or is it the dp/rp combo? And is OP saying he is considering the Mazdaspeed CAI but running it in SRI mode? Sorry for the confusion. Does OP have any other mods right now and if so, what?
All things considered. A good intake, either CAI or SRI is the first mod anyone should consider. I prefer CAI but others like SRI. Either will produce good gains. Next mod should be some kind of monitoring equipment, because any performance mod after a simple intake is likely to raise the possibility of possible boost or fuel pressure issues. So, at least get a good boost gauge. Better yet, get a scan tool of some sort that can also give you fuel pressure readings at least.
After monitoring, I would then address the exhaust side. Yes, you can run a downpipe and race pipe into the stock CBE without a tune -- if and only if you monitor both boost and fuel pressure. The race pipe is a no-brainer. The downpipe get into whether you can run catless in your jurisdiction or whether you will be tested for emissions and what kind of test you will have to pass.
BPV -- the very best one you can get for this car happens to be the stock one. Best of all is that it is free. Time and time again it has proven to be more reliable, less prone to issues and more likely to hold boost to target well than any of the aftermarket BPV's, IMHO. Unless your boost gauge (yes you must have some way to monitor boost or you are modding blind) is showing an inability to hit 16 psi on stock tune in the higher gears and to maintain decent boost until 5,800 rpm, then you do not need a different bpv. And the adjustable ones, when set to release quicker, do not seem to hold maximum boost as well. Smooth is better. And whatever you do, please remember that running any mode other than full 100% recirc is discharging already metered air to atmosphere. That screws up AFR's and ultimately has a negative effect on long term fuel trims. This is a MAF sensor controlled ECU. If you mess with air by releasing it to atmosphere after the sensor has already read the air mass and calculated and delivered the matching fuel, then you introduce error into engine management. At its worst, you have drivability problems. At its best, you have an engine that slightly de-tunes itself because it is chasing constantly changing conditions due to that loss of metered air during shifts. That air -- all of it -- has already been matched to fuel that got squirted into the cylinder. It needs to stay in the intake.
All things considered. A good intake, either CAI or SRI is the first mod anyone should consider. I prefer CAI but others like SRI. Either will produce good gains. Next mod should be some kind of monitoring equipment, because any performance mod after a simple intake is likely to raise the possibility of possible boost or fuel pressure issues. So, at least get a good boost gauge. Better yet, get a scan tool of some sort that can also give you fuel pressure readings at least.
After monitoring, I would then address the exhaust side. Yes, you can run a downpipe and race pipe into the stock CBE without a tune -- if and only if you monitor both boost and fuel pressure. The race pipe is a no-brainer. The downpipe get into whether you can run catless in your jurisdiction or whether you will be tested for emissions and what kind of test you will have to pass.
BPV -- the very best one you can get for this car happens to be the stock one. Best of all is that it is free. Time and time again it has proven to be more reliable, less prone to issues and more likely to hold boost to target well than any of the aftermarket BPV's, IMHO. Unless your boost gauge (yes you must have some way to monitor boost or you are modding blind) is showing an inability to hit 16 psi on stock tune in the higher gears and to maintain decent boost until 5,800 rpm, then you do not need a different bpv. And the adjustable ones, when set to release quicker, do not seem to hold maximum boost as well. Smooth is better. And whatever you do, please remember that running any mode other than full 100% recirc is discharging already metered air to atmosphere. That screws up AFR's and ultimately has a negative effect on long term fuel trims. This is a MAF sensor controlled ECU. If you mess with air by releasing it to atmosphere after the sensor has already read the air mass and calculated and delivered the matching fuel, then you introduce error into engine management. At its worst, you have drivability problems. At its best, you have an engine that slightly de-tunes itself because it is chasing constantly changing conditions due to that loss of metered air during shifts. That air -- all of it -- has already been matched to fuel that got squirted into the cylinder. It needs to stay in the intake.
Last edited:
- :
- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
OP is from texas, the environment is not a concern there
twist_the_wrist
Member
- :
- 2008.5 MGM Mazdaspeed3
I did Cobb SRI with Blitz C3 filter. Next I'm gonna get shifter bushings and RMM #2 poster mentioned. After that I'll prolly go Cobb accessport and some gauges. Then down the road springs or full system exhaust. Then finito
saxmanbrad
Member
- :
- 2008 MS3 Black Mica
How is that Blitz filter? Being that it's made from stainless mesh, how do you clean it?
twist_the_wrist
Member
- :
- 2008.5 MGM Mazdaspeed3
You don't have too. Well, in the sense that there is no need for oil. I've only had it for a week. The guy I bought it from says its maintenance free as well as the Blitz website. I'm assuming after some time I'll take it out and spray some high pressure air through there to clear it if need be.
On a side note, it looks sick and sounds absolutely amazing. I like the blue Cobb piping and blue Cobb filter but ended up with the black piping and the stainless steel filter and it looks great next too the rest of the engine bay. I wish I would have the ability to try the standard $40 Cobb cloth filter to see what the sound difference is. At any rate I am happy. Also, the vendor I bought it from raved about the Blitz but it must also be remembered that hes paid to say these things and up sell but anyways.
- :
- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
Wow,
Im to lazy to post links,
But you, any one else with that rig should google engine wear, and, yea say 10 micron
Im to lazy to post links,
But you, any one else with that rig should google engine wear, and, yea say 10 micron
- :
- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
