I finally wired the MS3 with 0ga wiring. Man that was a PITA...I put 2-12" Alpine 1243D Type X subs in there running off a JL Audio 1000/1. I am not finishing the rest of the install (Alpine Type R components running off a JL Audio 300/4) until I get my Pioneer Avic Z110BT HU installed. But for now I have BASS!!!! And a ton of it!! Pics will come tomorrow or the next day...The bass actually blurs your vision . Man I love it!!!
FINALLY have my stereo installed
- Thread starter skallen
- Start date
vitomandalay
Member
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- 08' Mazdaspeed3 GT
I'm guessing it never happened......lol
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79535
Lol. Welcome to the bass club. I've been beating my 9515 DD with 2600W RMS for a while. Car is still in 1 piece.
I didn't find the 0 gauge that hard to run. I just used the grommet in place behind the glove box and ran it behind the heat shield behind the turbo/turbo manifold.
EDIT:
I concur with vitomandalay. Definitely never happened.
I didn't find the 0 gauge that hard to run. I just used the grommet in place behind the glove box and ran it behind the heat shield behind the turbo/turbo manifold.
EDIT:
I concur with vitomandalay. Definitely never happened.
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79535
Do you want to replace your speakers or just make the stockers sound better?
Buy better and more efficient stock speakers for your fronts. Polk MM571's are pretty dang nice, and make decent sound without a lot of power. I gave my best friend my set to put in his Protege and he's happy as a fly on s*** with them running off the stock HU.
I wouldn't put a lot of money into the rear door speakers because the non-bose HU doesn't send full-range to the rear pair. Maybe Polk dB series for the rear doors.
dB571's and MM571's totaled would run you under 200 if you shop around.
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If you are looking to replace the stock speakers, I would run a line out converter to send a signal to a 2ch or 4ch bridged amp and upgrade the front speakers to 6.5" components powered off that amp.
That would give you a decent sound upgrade. If rear speakers (fill) are important to you, then upgrade the rears and fronts and run a 4 channel amp.
It depends how serious you want to get.
That would give you a decent sound upgrade. If rear speakers (fill) are important to you, then upgrade the rears and fronts and run a 4 channel amp.
It depends how serious you want to get.
lakedude90
Member
now u have no room to carry stuff
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I'm seriously considering putting the stock HU back in and running LOC or something more complex (cleansweep maybe?) just so I can make the interior look unmolested.
The Metra (or any other brand) dash kits always look so cheap
The Metra (or any other brand) dash kits always look so cheap
I sure don't have room to carry stuff now....But what I was planning was putting a false floor in the hatch and using the spare tire well as my subwoofer enclosure. Then I was going to buy some run-flats!!! Expensive idea, I know...But for : 1) It would pound like hell 2) I still have a good chunk of hatch space 3) No need for spare tire when you have run-flats. So.....either way it works for me
I'm seriously considering putting the stock HU back in and running LOC or something more complex (cleansweep maybe?) just so I can make the interior look unmolested.
The Metra (or any other brand) dash kits always look so cheap
I know what you mean...I had to do some ugly, ghetto work on my Metra kit just to retain my stock LCD...However, the kit did look amazingly close to stock..Up here in Canada, we don't get the option of buying a kit with brackets already included for the LCD...We have to make them
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Lol. I finally found a kit that retained the stock lcd and included brackets and everything. I can't remember which one is was... I know I bought a Metra kit but I also tried another brand....
I hear you though, for a while it was impossible to find anything in Canada.
I hear you though, for a while it was impossible to find anything in Canada.
Redrocketms3
Member
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- True Red Speed3
sweet setup, ive also got a type x, i love it. my set up is 12" type x sub, 6.5" type x components front and rear, alpine pdx 4.100, and 1.600, alpine x001 head unit, and a alpine spec home made sub box. it makes the ears bleed haha
There is not as much room as one might think if you are wanting to use the tire well as an enclosure, install the amps and still keep it flush to the rim of the hatch (the plastic trim on the rear hatch lock). You get about 9" in height to play with and about 22" of width unless you step up out of the tire well as part of the enclosure. Its really tough to get the cubic feet needed for a larger sub like a 12" or greater just due to still needing the amp mounting room. A great sub to look at that will give great SPL and sound quality that requires little mounting depth is the Morel Ultimo 12" sub. Super sub, but a little on the pricey side. I wish I had gone that route before I bought my 12W6. It can be done though with some careful planning. I was running (3) JL amps, a bit one and a 12W7 and managed to keep it flush but I sure did a lot of cussing in the process trying to get everything to fit. Good luck with it. Its a shame Mazda couldn't have given us a little more room to work with as far as space in the hatch areas.
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^ Ya I hear ya...But I wasn't planning on raising the floor of the hatch any more than 3 inches (if that). I was hoping to put the amps on the rear seat backs, but I dunno..I haven't really thought that one through yet. Maybe mount them on the ceiling in the rear...haha!!
