feasability question for the gurus

Thanks to everyone who posted in this section- especially those who lend technical information. I knew plenty about engines, but nothing about turbo or supercharger systems until searching through these threads.

Here's the setup I want...
The gaol: 160whp with full boost BEFORE 3,000rpm without changing the injectors.
Method: A small turbo to spool quickly, and an excellent intercooler and intake system to still get 5lb boost.

Want to spend less than $4,500. Any suggestions on how to make it happen?
 
Buy Spoolin's level one kit (spin)

The full boost before 3K thing is the only thing you wouldnt get...but it would be damn close.
 
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But that's the main thing I want- I'm thinking at 2,700-2,800 rpm to have 100% boost... as opposed to 3,200. Even with only 160whp, if you had 80% of your power from 2,400-6,400, the car would SMOKE!
 
If you are really concerned with boost responce, I can slap on a t28 for you on a stage 1 kit. This will reach full boost by about 2600 rpm. And that is way below your $4500 dollar limit.
 
I can vouch for the T28 on a non-intercooled setup I had it spooled by 2600 no problems till i spun the bearings in the turbo rendering it useless and now I'm NA since i'm a broke mo-fo and can't afford a turbo kit. lol
 
spoolinmp3 said:
If you are really concerned with boost responce, I can slap on a t28 for you on a stage 1 kit. This will reach full boost by about 2600 rpm. And that is way below your $4500 dollar limit.

That sounds excellent! If everything pans out with my new job, I should be ready to purchase in 4-8 weeks- cost is not as much of a concern as performance, drivability, and durability. Will it still provide 160whp? Or will it need an intercooler setup to achieve that number? 160whp is about 200 at the crank, correct?
 
blue_hotty said:


That sounds excellent! If everything pans out with my new job, I should be ready to purchase in 4-8 weeks- cost is not as much of a concern as performance, drivability, and durability. Will it still provide 160whp? Or will it need an intercooler setup to achieve that number? 160whp is about 200 at the crank, correct?
Um, let's see...carry the four......s***....
I think it would be about 210-215, depending on drivetrain loss.
 
That sounds excellent! If everything pans out with my new job, I should be ready to purchase in 4-8 weeks- cost is not as much of a concern as performance, drivability, and durability. Will it still provide 160whp? Or will it need an intercooler setup to achieve that number? 160whp is about 200 at the crank, correct?
Here are a few things to take into consideration. The stage 1 and stage 2 kit are the same thing except for the manifolds. Stage 1 manifold is a shorty type. And stage 2 is a full length. The manifold that comes in the stage 2 allows for quicker spool up thus faster boost onset responce. I predict with a t28 and full tubular manifold you will realize full boost in the vicinity of 2400-2500 rpm. So if you are really concerned with responsivness you may want to take stage 2 into consideration.

As far as power. We have made some baseline runs and got 167 whp!! We are going to do so more runs but with the second cat in place. But the numbers should be similar. This is with our stage 1 non-intercooled kit.
Also the kit directly bolts up with no modifications. We installed one and had no problems whatsoever. We just finished a revised installation guide and blowout diagrams to make the install even easier. Also you will not have to buy a single extra part for the kit. It will come with everything! Minus some vacum line. But every nut and bolt will be there. I have been going over the past kits we have sent out and perfected any flaws and missing parts. Heck it even comes with spark plugs!!
 
Okay, stage II with a t28 will be perfect, as long as it provides the same 160whp. I'll let you know what happens with the job. This will be awesome- better looking and faster than an MSP!:cool:
 
If all you want is 160 whp, you have no need for an intercooler. Just go with straight turbo to throttle body. then if you think you need some additional cooling down the road, just get a water injection system.
 
Are you saying that the turbo will bolt directly on to the primary cat?

No it will not bolt up to the primary, the kit discards the primary cat.
But the downpipe can weld to the 2nd cat. So you hav etheir option of retaining the 2nd cat or discarding it(laugh)
 
Hey Terry, does your new kit come with flex pipe or do they have to buy it from the muffler shop. I'm asking because none of the muffler shops around here had any and I had to order it myself. I't also cheaper to order it yourself instead of buying it from the muffler shop. One shop said they didn't have any but they could order me one for $100. I said, "ok, umm, no, I can get it in two days from JCWhitney for like $40." Then he bitchslapped me, spit on me and kicked me out of his shop. Just kidding.
 
hey spoolin, sorry to bug you, but w/out the 1st cat, would my car still pass the cal smog? Also, what kind of cost would I be looking at for the kit that you were talking to blue-hotty about? Thanks for your help and time.

Josh
 
hey spoolin, sorry to bug you, but w/out the 1st cat, would my car still pass the cal smog? Also, what kind of cost would I be looking at for the kit that you were talking to blue-hotty about? Thanks for your help and time.

You should pass smog with one cat. Its my understanding that one of the reasons mazda utilizes 2 cats is because of the LEV status(low emmisions vehicle). Just for reference, I have passed emmisions with no cats. That was on a miata.

As for the kit, the stage 2 that I was talking about is $2795. Changing turbos from a t3 to a t28 will not affect price. And the stege 1 is 2595. The exact same setup but it utlizes a shorty tubular header.
 
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spoolinmp3 said:


No it will not bolt up to the primary, the kit discards the primary cat.
But the downpipe can weld to the 2nd cat. So you hav etheir option of retaining the 2nd cat or discarding it(laugh)

Spoolin, I've asked this before, but I dont think I got a response. Is there anything you can do to make the downpipe bolt onto the secondary cat instead? Or is the downpipe too big for the stock pipe? I'd pay the extra beans for that. Then when I switched exhausts etc, I could just bolt it on and not worry about driving down to the muffler shop.

*** P.S. What was the 167whp dyno run on? Stage 1 or Stage 2?

Chris
 
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