Can't imagine doing it like above!!! Taking the engine out with the tranny on was so easy... the only hitch was getting the main wiring harness to drop around the master cylinder without smashing anything too much.Brian MP5T said:Do It this way!
I took out the engine without taking out the tranny, What a b****!
Failed piston ring?
- Thread starter Kooldino
- Start date
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- MP5T / 944
I had to take all the motor mounts off except the rear one attached to the tranny so the entire assembley could lay foreward to get teh crank pulley to clear the frame so the clutch could clear the tranny... Didn't take too long and I'm done with the car/tranny till the spring. It can sit in the cold as is. In the spring, I'm taking the tranny out to mate it to the engine and then droping it all in one shot. Motor mounts then, I'll worry about rebuilding the suspension and steering...TurfBurn said:
I think I'm in about 9K when the motor is done... but have another 2K+ in plans, and then if you count what Terry did before me there is probably about another good 8K in the car... so all told... probably about 20K in modification... But the good part is that when I'm done my total vehicle cost will be about 21,000 which is what most people paid for their new MSPBrian MP5T said:
. And I should be just a little fastar 
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- MP5T / 944
(hippy) Too Funny!TurfBurn said:...And I should be just a little fastar
I"ve got mine in a garage with a wicked heater so I can work on it all winter. I'm hoping to have it assembled and fire it up by the end of February. But I have to paint my block and a bunch of other crap yet before then!Brian MP5T said:
When I have the money again I'll make some suspension changes (Koni adjustables). But I'm also hoping to flare the fenders this spring and bump up to 265 width rubber if I can figure out a way to pull it off... need traction! Also will be keeping spare trannies around and going to custom axles as well. Lots of work overall! Tons to do...
I need to call my machine shop too and see about having my crank nitrided if possible.. always something
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- MP5T / 944
Dude, I have a sweet How To on rolling fendes. Let me know...TurfBurn said:I"ve got mine in a garage with a wicked heater so I can work on it all winter. I'm hoping to have it assembled and fire it up by the end of February. But I have to paint my block and a bunch of other crap yet before then!
When I have the money again I'll make some suspension changes (Koni adjustables). But I'm also hoping to flare the fenders this spring and bump up to 265 width rubber if I can figure out a way to pull it off... need traction! Also will be keeping spare trannies around and going to custom axles as well. Lots of work overall! Tons to do...
I need to call my machine shop too and see about having my crank nitrided if possible.. always something
Is he maybe talking about align honing the mains. This is done in an empty block with all the caps put on. The same can be done to rods, by putting the caps on them.TurfBurn said:It was a direct recommendation from my engine builder who is doing my block. I asked for a bearing tolerance of 2.2 thousandths on the mains and he said it'd cost a little more as he'd have to hand lap each cap and main to pull the tolerances down exactly to the 10th for me. Said he had done it enough times before. So common for him to do I guess
Sorry this hand lapping stuff does not make sens to me. Only time I have ever had to lap stuff was valves just to get a proper seat.
Nope... I already am having the mains align honed. This is the process he explained:Focus said:
Align hone
Installation of bearings with caps
Comparison of measurements between installed bearings and the crank...
Lapping of cap to relieve the bearing to alter clearance as necessary...
Basically I know he is honing the setup but then going through to lap solely to remove material in extremely small amounts to make sure the bearing clearances come in line. I believe it may be that he is using it to alter the crush a little on the bearings to make sure he gets it right on where I want it.
I'm shooting to be one of the first to break 400 horse, but also to be able to make a reliable 8,000 miles between rebuilds. It's only costing me like an extra 100 bucks or so... so worth it in my opinion. drop in the bucket for the build. Just trying to make sure everything is ultra accurate. I also had him go through and careful remove flash and roun the tops of every rib by hand to make sure there aren't any stress risers.
I'd go for 1000 hp if we could do it on our motors... but I think the block is done for about about 450-500... I don't think anyone will get anything remotely reliable in the 500+ range out of these motors without a whole new block casting.
I'd go for 1000 hp if we could do it on our motors... but I think the block is done for about about 450-500... I don't think anyone will get anything remotely reliable in the 500+ range out of these motors without a whole new block casting.
Wouldn't you get an inconsistant surface if you do it by hand? I mean, if you hand lap it there is a chance of getting any 1 part of the surface higher or lower then the rest. Then if you try to bring the rest down, you may bring the lowest part down even more. Your hand is not the most precise machine.
I don't know anything about this process, I am just trying to correlate this to something else you would need a precise measurment on. Generally, you want to use a machine to give you a 100% equal surface on something that requires that tight of a clearance. I don't know what's involved in this and it may be easier then I think it is.
I don't know anything about this process, I am just trying to correlate this to something else you would need a precise measurment on. Generally, you want to use a machine to give you a 100% equal surface on something that requires that tight of a clearance. I don't know what's involved in this and it may be easier then I think it is.
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- MP5T / 944
I have to scan it. Give me till Sat A.M... I'll Pm it to you or post it...TurfBurn said:I'd be interested.... I may actually have a body shop that I've done previous work with cut and rebuild them... give it the M5 sort of look
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- MP5T / 944
As Hondarific as this is, you would have to Sleeve It.. OMG(jerkit)TurfBurn said:
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- MP5T / 944
True, but it would be the only way I think the block would handle the 1000 HP he suggested.
The EVO ran a 800 at 40 PSI in the last month of Mod Mag! WTF would you do with that, it would leave 2 BLACK LINES everywhere you opened up! HA!
The EVO ran a 800 at 40 PSI in the last month of Mod Mag! WTF would you do with that, it would leave 2 BLACK LINES everywhere you opened up! HA!
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- MP5T / 944
I wish! If this ****** blows again, I'm putting in a RX-7 Drivetrain and the 13B and then Turboing the s*** out of it!
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Good news guys:
I just pulled 2 of the crank journals off (one to the left and one to the right of the cylinder with the bad rod bearing), and they look pretty clean.
Then I re-insepected my oil "sucker" (the one with the screen on it. Anyone who's had these apart knows what I'm talking about). I noticed a few TINY peices of metal debris in it. I got them out as good as I could by hand, but really, the whole "oil sucker pipe" thing needed to be flushed out. I know this sounds bad, but I did so...in my kitchen sink. And a few debris that I didn't even see came out with it. Now I just gotta really make sure this sucker is dry before it goes back into the car.
I just pulled 2 of the crank journals off (one to the left and one to the right of the cylinder with the bad rod bearing), and they look pretty clean.
Then I re-insepected my oil "sucker" (the one with the screen on it. Anyone who's had these apart knows what I'm talking about). I noticed a few TINY peices of metal debris in it. I got them out as good as I could by hand, but really, the whole "oil sucker pipe" thing needed to be flushed out. I know this sounds bad, but I did so...in my kitchen sink. And a few debris that I didn't even see came out with it. Now I just gotta really make sure this sucker is dry before it goes back into the car.
