Exhaust - let's talk about this one!

Silver...have you tuned at all after installing yet? There is no coincidence because decrease was immediately noticeable to me after installing the MSCBE. I also considered going back to stock but I will try to find the right combo first before doing that. I like the sound of the MSCBE better anyhow.
 
like i said before, tune it

There is alot of power to gain from installing a TBE, people see as much as 20whp in the power band from it, the observation that its pointless is a dumb observation, and you wont know until you tune
 
like i said before, tune it

There is alot of power to gain from installing a TBE, people see as much as 20whp in the power band from it, the observation that its pointless is a dumb observation, and you wont know until you tune

20 WHP? I thought you could expect nearly 40 WHP form a TBE and probably closer to 50 WHP with a tune.
 
I only have MSCBE, not full TBE. How could you tune it without an AP?
Standback, AP, and other various off the wall tuning solutions, but its best to go ahead and invest in a tuning solution if u plan to mod, cus these cars dont/wont last without a decent tune running on them

20 WHP? I thought you could expect nearly 40 WHP form a TBE and probably closer to 50 WHP with a tune.
Maybe at a Peak whp reading you may get 40, but in the big scheme of things would u want to have 1 second of +40whp or 10 seconds of +20whp. Lets just say you have more power in the RPM range to use without getting too technical
 
Standback, AP, and other various off the wall tuning solutions, but its best to go ahead and invest in a tuning solution if u plan to mod, cus these cars dont/wont last without a decent tune running on them

I'm not trying to "call you out" but it seems the cars who are in the safest position are the cars with intake/exhaust and no tune. I've yet to see a I/E car blow up or throw a rod. I certainly agree that you won't get the most out of the car without a tune, but then again, stock tune keeps things pretty safe as it does adapt fairly quick.
 
How about, those wheels of yours FTMFW! G'damnit thats hot.

he always has the sickest wheels. dont get his head to big. lol.

as far as the tune goes. i say it all depends on what you set for safety. you can set stock safety features on your aftermarket tune and tune the s*** out of what you can. your going to get a conciderable amount less than someone who wants to pull the motor hard from 2000-6000. there has been people on here who have been fully bolted and the stock tune pulls the best a/f, kr, ltft's etc...so its all a matter of what looks the safest....unless as ive said your going for that full power.

as tim the tool man taylor says...."MORE POWER! ARH ARH ARH ARH !!!"
 
you can see alot more than 20whp from a tbe. a tbe intake and tune should put you in or close to 300w
 
I'm just trying to regain whatever power the car already had stock. Unfortunately, I can't confirm if it was stock 15psi or not because I didn't have a Dashhawk.

I went out to the garage and found that my boost tubes were actually kinda loose. I got quite a few turns out of all the clamps. Hopefully that helps..
 
I'm just trying to regain whatever power the car already had stock. Unfortunately, I can't confirm if it was stock 15psi or not because I didn't have a Dashhawk.

I went out to the garage and found that my boost tubes were actually kinda loose. I got quite a few turns out of all the clamps. Hopefully that helps..

stock is usually 15-16 psi and without a tune your not going to see more boost its just going to hold a bit longer.

as far as losing power id say run through the whole set-up and check for leaks if tightening didnt change your problem. its hard to say better parts are at fault for hurting power.
 
Well, on my way to work, I wasn't getting a spike past 15.5 and it was holding near 14. Drive was short though so ill report back.
 
I'm not trying to "call you out" but it seems the cars who are in the safest position are the cars with intake/exhaust and no tune. I've yet to see a I/E car blow up or throw a rod. I certainly agree that you won't get the most out of the car without a tune, but then again, stock tune keeps things pretty safe as it does adapt fairly quick.

that maybe so on a MS3 with an intake/exhaust, but im talkin about beyond that, I.E. my mod list plus meth or mani or future plans to make more power. for a 2 bolt on part car your right ull b ok, but to buy the tuner now is just getting you one step in front of the rest who dont have one and will need it. on top of it getting a protune can make it safer than stock tune and have more power behind it

but to each his own, i didnt stay 1 or 2 parts very long so i needed a tune as soon as i could get it once i got my parts on.

and i have forgot what 15 pounds feels like, holy crap you guys run safe levels
 
I don't really know entirely what it feels like because it's always disappearing. I don't want to rush into an AP when I may never go past the mods I have now considering the issues i'm having. But you're right, it's probably not a bad idea to get one..
 
Let's help get Silver to the bottom of the boost loss issue. That has nothing to do with a tune on his modest mods.

If he does not have a DH, then I hope he has or will install an inexpensive manual boost gauge. Since he did have some boost data, I assume it's from that gauge. Hopefully, tightning the tube clamps solved the problem.

Hell, I don't have a tune and don't really see the need for one for my particular use of my car, even with a catless dp/rp.

If you guys with tunes are running quicker than 13.4's at 106-107 on stock tires, and hitting 60-100 quicker than 6.3 seconds, let us know. Don't give me dyno numbers. Give me ET's and trap speeds. Give me some stopwatch timer numbers. That's literally where the rubber meets the road. On the open road, I can run with Cayman S's (to their considerable surprise) and the like and that's good enough for me.

I prefer to stay pig rich and have all the stock safety measures in place, including cold weather fuel cut on the stock tune, rather than pushing boost too far or risking leaning out the engine for just a few extra hp. I don't want to go around constantly worried about whether my tune took everything into consideration to keep me safe.

I have nothing against aftermarket ECU map changes and applaud those who get deeply into this and do it safely. But you'd be amazed at how accomodating and safe the stock ECU is for sensible mods, even up to catless dp/rp and the approx. two extra pounds of boost that brings with it.

Back to Silver: Did the tube clamp tightening solve the leak? If a gauge is still showing boost loss early, I have another couple ideas, one still on the intake side, the other with the fuel system.
 
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Thanks man, I appreciate your dedication to the issue hehe.

Tightening the clamps did reduce my boost spikes slightly and maintained more near 14 and 13psi. I still noticed it only hitting 11psi again in 3rd when i'd go WOT at 3500rpm.

I do have a Dashhawk, and I did a few datalogs just going WOT in 5th to 6th and i'll try my hardest to download them. The one hold-up has been offloading the datalog to a computer that has XP so I can post them!
 

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