Environmental parameters?

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RDX Aspec Adv.
Well, it got too cold for my Mazda today, and disabled the AWD. I read the manual, and it did not cover cold temps. Does anyone know at what temperature the AWD is disabled? I know 15*F is cold, but I've never had a vehicle disable critical traction systems because of it before. Not too impressed. Glad I got a killer warranty on this buggy!

*PS. I'm going to drive it before fixing it. Sorry, just no Mazda dealerships open on sunday. Since the light is solid, and not flashing, I gather that this will not cause damage? I heard no grinding or terrible noises, and looking at the housing, it's dry with no leaks.
 
That's messed up. We saw down to -17 last year, with a week and a half stretch in the negative and the wife's '13 never faltered.
 
Fairly comprehensive diagnostic procedure in FSM... not sure an everyday OBD2 reader could obtain codes though... they probably require retrieval via the dealers MDS system.
 
Just thinking maybe water got into one of the electrical connectors near rear diff.. perhaps even a loose connection. As expected... that light on can mean a lot of things until the code number is pulled.
 
Just thinking maybe water got into one of the electrical connectors near rear diff.. perhaps even a loose connection. As expected... that light on can mean a lot of things until the code number is pulled.

It's been in the low to mid 20's here many times since then. No issues. It just came on while I was leaving work this morning. I'm more pissed about it than I should be, probably, because I came from a piece of junk vehicle (Jeep) that had a rabid forum full of "they are good vehicles!" types, just like the CX-5 here. I hope I'm not discovering that it just ain't so, like I did with my Jeep. So I'm likely more irritable over this than one would suspect.
 
The AWD light on isn't a common one here... off top of my head think the only clear memory of one was the guy out in Colorado on this forum who got diff to overheat really pushing it in snow all day long.

Hopefully something simple but like you said you have a warranty.... just a hassle any time you have to take something in.
 
The AWD light on isn't a common one here... off top of my head think the only clear memory of one was the guy out in Colorado on this forum who got diff to overheat really pushing it in snow all day long.

Hopefully something simple but like you said you have a warranty.... just a hassle any time you have to take something in.

It's not even so much the hassle, it's that I have s*** to do and places to go, and it's not going to magically wait for the dealership to open, so I hope it doesn't damage anything.
 
It says only if flashing should it be towed... since you have solid light I would drive it.
 
It says only if flashing should it be towed... since you have solid light I would drive it.

That's what I gleaned, as well. I read the manual for my 2001 WS.6 cover to cover, and learned a TON about vehicles in general from it. Usually solid lights are not "serious" in the short term.
 
Well, it got too cold for my Mazda today, and disabled the AWD. I read the manual, and it did not cover cold temps. Does anyone know at what temperature the AWD is disabled? I know 15*F is cold, but I've never had a vehicle disable critical traction systems because of it before.

The CX-5 will not disable AWD due to cold (only overheat condition). A number of us owners have driven to zero degrees and below without issue. 15F is not very cold.

The CX-5 has amazing self-diagnostics. The AWD diagnostic checks inputs from the AWD temperature sensor and checks the function of the AWD clutch solenoid. If any of these tests are out of range it will illuminate the AWD warning light and disable the coupling to the rear wheels. This diagnostic function has a memory and will not self-clear even if the battery is disconnected or the original fault is no longer present. It could be as simple as water in one of the connections causing a temporary out of spec condition. If it were not under warranty I would remove both AWD housing connectors (temp. sensor and AWD solenoid) inspect for damage, spray with electrical contact cleaner followed by dielectric spray grease, reassemble, and clear the code using an inexpensive OBD code reader and see if the error returned.

Was this over-flowing creek you drove through brown by any chance? I've driven through clear water many times without issues but brown water is more electrically conductive. In any case, if you're going to be driving through water (in any type of vehicle) you need to step up the maintenance on items like wheel bearings, brake fluids, electrical connectors, etc. Most off-road manuals will instruct to replace fluids after driving through standing water. I'm not saying this was preventable, just that water causes more issues than most people realize.

*PS. I'm going to drive it before fixing it. Sorry, just no Mazda dealerships open on sunday. Since the light is solid, and not flashing, I gather that this will not cause damage? I heard no grinding or terrible noises, and looking at the housing, it's dry with no leaks.

A flashing AWD light indicates a condition that is transitory and will self-clear if/when the error condition is no longer present (for example, over temperature AWD fluid). A solid light disables the AWD coupling so driving it is not an issue (assuming you don't need AWD). Old school cars did not have a plethora of sensors and diagnostics so we would never know if there was a fault unless/until it manifested itself in more obvious ways. People get freaked out about dashboard warning lights but they are typically just minor faults that we would otherwise never know about.

I'm amazed my Mazda has never thrown a single fault code in over three years of all types of usage/environmental conditions. My Volvo was overly sensitive in this regard starting from day 1.
 
The CX-5 will not disable AWD due to cold (only overheat condition). A number of us owners have driven to zero degrees and below without issue. 15F is not very cold.

The CX-5 has amazing self-diagnostics. The AWD diagnostic checks inputs from the AWD temperature sensor and checks the function of the AWD clutch solenoid. If any of these tests are out of range it will illuminate the AWD warning light and disable the coupling to the rear wheels. This diagnostic function has a memory and will not self-clear even if the battery is disconnected or the original fault is no longer present. It could be as simple as water in one of the connections causing a temporary out of spec condition. If it were not under warranty I would remove both AWD housing connectors (temp. sensor and AWD solenoid) inspect for damage, spray with electrical contact cleaner followed by dielectric spray grease, reassemble, and clear the code using an inexpensive OBD code reader and see if the error returned.

Was this over-flowing creek you drove through brown by any chance? Clear I've driven through clear water many times without issues but brown water is more electrically conductive. In any case, if you're going to be driving through water (in any type of vehicle) you need to step up the maintenance on items like wheel bearings, brake fluids, electrical connectors, etc. Most off-road manuals will instruct to replace fluids after driving through standing water. I'm not saying this was preventable, just that water causes more issues than most people realize.
I spent 30 seconds crossing an over-flowed road and it was roughly as deep as stated ground clearance spec. This should not be an issue.


A flashing AWD light indicates a condition that is transitory and will self-clear if/when the error condition is no longer present (for example, over temperature AWD fluid). A solid light disables the AWD coupling so driving it is not an issue (assuming you don't need AWD). Old school cars did not have a plethora of sensors and diagnostics so we would never know if there was a fault unless/until it manifested itself in more obvious ways. People get freaked out about dashboard warning lights but they are typically just minor faults that we would otherwise never know about.
That's fine. As long as it's not grinding anything to death, it can wait.
I'm amazed my Mazda has never thrown a single fault code in over three years of all types of usage/environmental conditions. My Volvo was overly sensitive in this regard starting from day 1.

I simply hope this is not going to be a trend with this vehicle. This is how it started with the Jeep...
"oh...that's not common..."
 
Drove through an overflowed creek (flowing across road) about 2 weeks ago. Didn't bottom out or anything, though. Water maybe 8-10". Should easily handle it.

The owners manual says to replace the transfer and rear diff oil if the components were submerged in water.

Maybe some water got into the oil and now with the low temps that water froze?
 
The owners manual says to replace the transfer and rear diff oil if the components were submerged in water.

Maybe some water got into the oil and now with the low temps that water froze?
Because I splashed through a creek that was roughly as deep as ground clearance? If that truly is what did it, I'm dumping the fragile pos for a something reliable. Like a Chrysler or Landover or mini. Seriously, even they are tougher than that.

I just don't think that was it, or driving in the rain would be terrible...I mean...water splashes.
 
So far, the word is, the whole diff needs replaced. I'm really not very happy with Mazda right now, and pretty disgusted that I bought into the reliability hype. No better than my Jeep Grand Cherokee (maybe worse, as a little cold weather never broke my Jeep's driveline, lol!), and much less fun. Take into account that I'm sick right now, and it's past my bed-time, but I'm pretty pissed. I bought an effete looking little 4-banger for convenience and reliability, and it can't even manage THAT. No upsides. All down. Going to bed rather irritated.
 
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Because I splashed through a creek that was roughly as deep as ground clearance? ...I mean...water splashes.

There is a difference between splashing water and being submerged. All differentials are vented to the atmosphere. This difference is why the Owners Manual recommends replacing the differential oil if submerged in water (not after being driven through rain). The real killer here wasn't the water (which would have evaporated through the vent with heat and time) but rather the freezing temperatures that immediately followed the flooding. Parking it overnight under freezing conditions with the water in the bottom of the differential is almost certainly what killed it.

The differential is not fragile, but the expansion of water as it turns from liquid to solid is an unstoppable force.
 
There is a difference between splashing water and being submerged. All differentials are vented to the atmosphere. This difference is why the Owners Manual recommends replacing the differential oil if submerged in water (not after being driven through rain). The real killer here wasn't the water (which would have evaporated through the vent with heat and time) but rather the freezing temperatures that immediately followed the flooding. Parking it overnight under freezing conditions with the water in the bottom of the differential is almost certainly what killed it.

The differential is not fragile, but the expansion of water as it turns from liquid to solid is an unstoppable force.

I guess that 8.5'' of ground clearance needs to be re-visited then. Total BS. If that's what killed it, then this thing needs a disclaimer *not a real SUV, treat like corvette regarding terrain*

I also find the supposition weak, as this happened over a week, several hundred miles, and a half dozen 25* and lower nights later...
 
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So far, the word is, the whole diff needs replaced. I'm really not very happy with Mazda right now, and pretty disgusted that I bought into the reliability hype. No better than my Jeep Grand Cherokee (maybe worse, as a little cold weather never broke my Jeep's driveline, lol!), and much less fun. Take into account that I'm sick right now, and it's past my bed-time, but I'm pretty pissed. I bought an effete looking little 4-banger for convenience and reliability, and it can't even manage THAT. No upsides. All down. Going to bed rather irritated.


CX-5s have never had the best reliability record. If reliability is what you're after and you need an SUV, check out a 4runner. We bought one in 2012 and it's been completely hiccup free. Being the car nerd that we all are, I signed up on the 4runner forum. One thing that tripped me out is the mileage on some of those guys' cars. If you have a 4runner/tacoma and it takes a s*** after 500k miles, you got a lemon. There are literally dozens of people on that club with 750K mile cars that are still chugging along.

It's no CX-5 when you're driving it though. The Mazda is SO much better through the curves and SO much more comfortable than the truck-based 4runner. The Mazda accents the "Sport" in SUV and the Toyota focuses on the "Utility" part.
 
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CX-5s have never had the best reliability record. If reliability is what you're after and you need an SUV, check out a 4runner. We bought one in 2012 and it's been completely hiccup free. Being the car nerd that we all are, I signed up on the 4runner forum. One thing that tripped me out is the mileage on some of those guys' cars. If you have a 4runner/tacoma and it takes a s*** after 500k miles, you got a lemon. There are literally dozens of people on that club with 750K mile cars that are still chugging along.

I'm seeing that. I'm building a house next year, and after that's done, I'm dumping it. 4Runner seems the way to go from all I've heard, too.
 
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