Enging nightmares

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Since this thread has gotten off topic like all do I'll post my update on my engine problems.

Well I took my P5 to Mazda to get an exact cause of my clattering that turned into a knocking. It turns out that I have internal damage with a rod knocking. I only have 84 thousand miles.

So..... I got a used low mileage spare motor from Beau at MAM for a really good price. Beau did us good
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Mental Addiction Motorsports ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!! I picked it up from the shop last night.

So the plans (dreams) are pull my original motor and swap it with the new (used) motor. Then rebuild my original motor with J-spec intake cam, AWR exhaust cams. Port & polish anything that can. Jet hot or powdercoat anything that can. I'm wanting Oliver Rods and CP Custom Pistons. And ARP 11mm head studs. I also want CP Gold Ring Package, Toga bearings, New oil squirters, New Freeze Plugs, New Oil galley plugs, address the crank walk issuse by having a second thrust bearing machined and installed, then have the crank nitrated a second time, and get micro polished, line honed, square decked, bored, honed, plateaued, & all oil passages chaffered. I'm checking into a 11:1 compression too. I'm wanting to do the VTCS removal and any other cheap mods for 1 or 2 extra ponies as well.

So my original motor will be built and last for at least the loan of the car (LOL). This built motor would actually outlast the car.


Of course to feed this monster I'm gonna need the Mental Addiction Fuel Rail 1 Upgrade



This new fuel rail is designed for higher output engines or those who'd like to replace the ugly stock rail. It features 1/2" ID, CNC Billet aluminum brackets, allen head hardware, 2-XRP O-ringed fittings.



Oh yea this might come in handy
http://**************************.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=23_41&products_id=208&osCsid=69dbf3694ecbe6dea1445c6894a62f04


and this would be cool too



http://**************************.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=23_41&products_id=54&osCsid=69dbf3694ecbe6dea1445c6894a62f04


(Sorry honey we'll need a personalized plate for the P5 that reads "MUNYPIT" )

But all of the above is just a dream. But it is a possible dream to try & tackle over the next year or two.
 
rednecks_r_us said:
So the plans (dreams) are pull my original motor and swap it with the new (used) motor. Then rebuild my original motor with J-spec intake cam, AWR exhaust cams. Port & polish anything that can. Jet hot or powdercoat anything that can. I'm wanting Oliver Rods and CP Custom Pistons. And ARP 11mm head studs. I also want CP Gold Ring Package, Toga bearings, New oil squirters, New Freeze Plugs, New Oil galley plugs, address the crank walk issuse by having a second thrust bearing machined and installed, then have the crank nitrated a second time, and get micro polished, line honed, square decked, bored, honed, plateaued, & all oil passages chaffered. I'm checking into a 11:1 compression too. I'm wanting to do the VTCS removal and any other cheap mods for 1 or 2 extra ponies as well.

CP's come with top shelf (gas nitride, very strong, very good) rings right off the bat... so if you have to "pay" for better rings you are being ripped off. Just want to clarify/double check that.

Crankwalk has yet to be proven in anyway shape or form... and there are cars well over 300 horse which running NA you will not get near... so you are wasting money and potentially upping your risk factor by having the crankwalk "fix" of adding an additional face to the main and weakening it further by taking out material (and the stress it'll induce as I doubt enough can be done to eliminate the stress risers) and the potential of misalignment which leads to other issues. Not to mention the oil passages weren't designed to have to feed double the thrust bearing surface area. If you read about DSM crankwalk and what most believe to be the end result cause of it, it is due to a lack of proper oiling because mistubishi's oil squirters allowed pressure to drop enough such that not enough oiling was present on the thrust bearings and this causes bearing crash that wears out the thrust face and the end result is crankwalk for them...

Our cranks are ridiculously strong as is... so having it nitrided at all, especially you staying NA isn't at all necessary.
 
what was your "really good price" As most of us are paying 700 or less for a full long block with cams and head and everything... Plenty of people getting blocks SHIPPED for around 400-500.
 
found about 14 motors in Arizona... largely in Phoenix or Tucson. One for 215, other's for around 660 for a full long block with transmission..
 
One of my spare motors was from a 02 P5 with 17k on it. Came complete from coilpacks to downpipe with o2 sensors. It was 450shipped from a junkyard.
 
TurfBurn said:
CP's come with top shelf (gas nitride, very strong, very good) rings right off the bat... so if you have to "pay" for better rings you are being ripped off. Just want to clarify/double check that.

Crankwalk has yet to be proven in anyway shape or form... and there are cars well over 300 horse which running NA you will not get near... so you are wasting money and potentially upping your risk factor by having the crankwalk "fix" of adding an additional face to the main and weakening it further by taking out material (and the stress it'll induce as I doubt enough can be done to eliminate the stress risers) and the potential of misalignment which leads to other issues. Not to mention the oil passages weren't designed to have to feed double the thrust bearing surface area. If you read about DSM crankwalk and what most believe to be the end result cause of it, it is due to a lack of proper oiling because mistubishi's oil squirters allowed pressure to drop enough such that not enough oiling was present on the thrust bearings and this causes bearing crash that wears out the thrust face and the end result is crankwalk for them...

Our cranks are ridiculously strong as is... so having it nitrided at all, especially you staying NA isn't at all necessary.

Thanks for the info. I am just starting the research stages and am eager to learn all that I can befoe buying anything
 
TurfBurn said:
what was your "really good price" As most of us are paying 700 or less for a full long block with cams and head and everything... Plenty of people getting blocks SHIPPED for around 400-500.

To be fair to MAM I'm not going to post the price. Beau sponsor Arizona Mazda Club and gives some nice deals when he can. This was one of those nice deals.


This wasn't just a block it is a complete engine
 
too bad she left. i was about to ask her if her husband has a GOOD job, she works from home, she lives with her mom, and doesnt pay day care, wtf bills DOES she have (besides the obvious)? she says she isnt a huge spender, but christ...
 
rednecks_r_us said:
Thanks for the info. I am just starting the research stages and am eager to learn all that I can befoe buying anything

Then read my thread called A Rebuild Story: A Forged MP3 that has everything you need to know in it and all the whys and whats.
 
rednecks_r_us said:
To be fair to MAM I'm not going to post the price. Beau sponsor Arizona Mazda Club and gives some nice deals when he can. This was one of those nice deals.


This wasn't just a block it is a complete engine

The ones I'm talking about even include a transmission.. very much a FULL engine... I'm just saying don't be calling it a "good deal" if it isn't anything better than what the rest of us have paid which is about 450-700. It was very nice of beau to help you out.. and he is a great person, no doubt there.
 
TurfBurn said:
Then read my thread called A Rebuild Story: A Forged MP3 that has everything you need to know in it and all the whys and whats.

Cool I'll do a search for the thread

Thanks
 
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