Engine Ticking noise

[lowerdfool]

Originally posted by MikeBlueP5 [/B]

Happen to know how much solid lifters with shims will cost me new?

 

[MikeBlueP5]

i dont know exactly and it may actually be a dealer only item if you want them new, but i can tell you this the shims are not cheap at all, we buy them in packages and they are upwards of a thousand dollars, and im only talking a package of MAYBE 100 shims of oh say 10 different sizes. dealership prices may vary though, so i would check with them just to see. But i would have to look it up and see if we can get the "buckets" new or not, we usually just clean them in what is called a grease monkey, which is nothing more than a oversized ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. But i will look them up on monday and let ya know.
Michael

 

[lowerdfool]

any new info for me?

 

[MikeBlueP5]

s*** man im sorry, lol i was dreading going to work on monday, i am quitting my current job (dont worry though its pretty much a family owned operated deal) and thats the day i was putting in my two week notice. Ok so you wanted me to check on the new buckets and or remaned buckets and the shims. I will ask about them tomorrow. I am unsure as to how you are going to get the right shims though, when we build them at work we put a certain shim and measure then we go from there so i am unsure what shims you would need. But i will check on them tomorrow. Sorry for the delay. Caught up in the job switch.

 

[lowerdfool]

Would you be able to get a picture of the shim? I used to work at a tool and die shop and I can pick up shim material in .002 to .02 and just cut it to the shape I need. Unless it's a formed shim which could make it a lil more interesting. I'm going to have custom cams made so maybe i could make up for the differences on those as well. :shrug: I could always measure the difference between each valve and cam lobe.

 

[MikeBlueP5]

you could measure but you would have to have the lifter and shim as a starting point. also another thing to put into the mix is the valve stems installed height. thats why we have so many different shims. I can bring one home and take a picture of it. I will get some info tomorrow and let ya know then. also on a side note yes the shims are a formed type deal of varying thicknesses. they are of course round and sit right on top of the bucket/lifter. youll see when i get the pics.

 

[RX-KEVIN]

have you guys ever been in a miata with an stock oil pressure gauge?
the ticking is from the lack of oil pressure. once the engine has a load on it the pressure builds and the ticking stops

 

[RX-KEVIN]

you are trying to overcomplicate it

 

[TheMAN]

the 94+ Miata oil pressure gauges are quite useless

 

[lowerdfool]

you are trying to overcomplicate it

It's not really a matter of over complicating it. It's a matter of getting rid of hydraulic lash adjusters to help solve the problem. Maybe if someone would make a high output oil pump for our motors then I wouldn't be looking for other alternatives. Although I'm not really sure that's obtainable because of the design of our oil pump in the first place. You'd have to have a custom impeller made and even then it wouldn't be a definite thing at idle. And on top of that imagine the oil pressures at the top of the rpm range.

Now one more thing to add to the mix. I've even thought about putting in a dry sump oiling system that would shut off at higher rpm's to let the oem pump do it's job. The problem is there's not a system out there that doesn't cost under $500. That's a highly unreasonable fix-it price just for something that you're not garanteed will fix the ticking in the first place. Where as I'm positive solid lifters will. :shrug: just my $.02

 

[MikeBlueP5]

ok heres the deal, we cant get new, and one reason we dont is because we always clean the old and reman them and use them. now i could look for a head off of one of the other engines mentioned by theman above and see how many we have, possibly get you a set if you would like, not sure if i would have to charge you or not. Also the shims i wouldnt know how you are planning to do that, unless i send you the old ones that were on the head and you can check the lash with them and go from there. I hope i helped some just lemme know.
Michael

 

[lowerdfool]

I'm not sure if that would work but it would be worth a shot. I was thinking today maybe I could get a machined insert to fit inside the lifters I have that replace the hydraulic part with a solid peice of metal that I could shim from the inside to the proper size for each valve.

 

[TheMAN]

you guys are wasting your time... why not just buy that s*** brand new from a MAZDA dealership?

 

[MikeBlueP5]

the only problem with that is, if you notice on your lifters there are little pin holes that feed the hydraulic part with oil. i dont think these are present on the solid style. I would have to look though. I will look into it tomorrow at work.

 

[perfworks]

the only problem with that is, if you notice on your lifters there are little pin holes that feed the hydraulic part with oil. i dont think these are present on the solid style. I would have to look though. I will look into it tomorrow at work.

no they are not there

 

[RX-KEVIN]

you guys are crazy it's only a noise

 

[lowerdfool]

the only problem with that is, if you notice on your lifters there are little pin holes that feed the hydraulic part with oil. i dont think these are present on the solid style. I would have to look though. I will look into it tomorrow at work.

Yeah that hole is there, but it wouldn't be doing anything if the inserts I made were pressed in.

A noise that gets louder and more annoying by the day. It's crappy to pull up to a light and people look over at your car and think something is wrong with it because of the ticking. You'd understand if you heard it. Try to find a second gen probe and let them idle for 15 minutes on a hot day. You'll see exactly what I'm talkin about.

 

[lilbear4u32]

I have the same ticking noise on my Protege5, and I took my car to a mechanic. They completly broke down the engine and the "SAID" that there is nothing wrong with my car! Which I do not believe because, that noise was not there before, the ticking noise gets faster the more you accelorate. DOES ANYONE HAVE OR KNOW A SOLUTION FOR THIS?? pLEASE advise!