engine swap/rebuild

[blackp5]

you can use a nut extractor to remove a stripped bolt. a set can be picked up pretty reasonably at a hardware store. i have sold water pumps to people at 60,000 miles for tune up purposes and that seems to be a growing norm at my dealership.

there are indeed three belts on this car. if possible i would go OEM on things like belts.

let me know if you need anything for the rebuild as I carry the top parts needed to do the job at good prices, even the hard to find nonsense.

Thanks Ken. I think I'm gonna go cheap on this motor and spend more when I rebuild the old motor.

 

[Crazee D]

It matters cause there really isnt alot of point upgrading a Auto, unless your dong it for show, you cant turbocharge it or anything like that.

(no)

(gtfo)

You're kidding, right? (huh)
If not, that is a just plain retarded claim. (headshake
You can turbocharge a Auto. There are numerous examples right here on our forum, let alone the rest of the world.

(stfu)

 

[ChefChris]

You can Turbocharge it, but ask each and everyone that did it, and see how many still have it done, or already rebuilt and went over to manual. The auto tranny can hold up to what 5 psi, and even then you have to treat it with care otherwise you'll be doing the tranny rebuilt alot.

 

[blackp5]

need some help

Ok. so I finally got the heat shield off after dealing with the stripped bolt. I just used tin snips to cut the heat shield off. I took of the exhaust manifold and stuff.

I think I loosened the bolt for the AC freon, I'm not sure. A lot of gas/smoke came out when I unbolted the bolt. Not sure if I was suppose to do that but anyways. I'm stuck, I don't know what to do next. I pretty much have everything on the right side unbolted and detached. What should I do on the left side. There's alot of fluid fill lines and I'm not sure if I should just drain them out or if I should try to leave it alone. Any help would be appreciated. Here's a pic of the bolt I undid and gas came out.

 

[mp3josh]

yeah you did a big no no there. You should have unbolted the ac compressor off of the block and swung it out of the way. Unbolt the powersteering pump and tie or zip tie it to front frame by your lights.

 

[blackp5]

The power steering pump is the red one right?

Or am I totally off? haha

 

[Kansei]

somehow I doubt the EPA would be happy about that refrigerant being out in the atmosphere.

 

[blackp5]

somehow I doubt the EPA would be happy about that refrigerant being out in the atmosphere.

too late now. I thought my car was about to explode or smoething when it happened. haha

 

[mp3josh]

yes that is it. You should hook your ac line back up and do the same and attach it to the same area that you swing the powa steering pump too.

 

[mp3josh]

look at my picture again

 

[blackp5]

alrite thanks. I'm gonna do that tommorrow after work. I'll post if I need more help which I am sure I will. Thanks again.

 

[blackp5]

OK. Didn't get much accomplished this week. I need help on how to disconnect the fuel lines and such as I don't want any leaks of kind related to fuel. Any help would be appreciated.

mp3josh, I can see that you took the fuel filter(?) out. What else would I need to do?

 

[mp3josh]

no the fuel filter is in the gas tank. I took the fuel lines off of the injector rails. there are 2 connections that you have to take loose, they have a snap ring type cover on them you have to take them off and then you will be able to remove the lines from the rail (there are 2). Then I zip tied the lines out of the way so fuel would not leak out of them while they were chilling there . I took the intake and exhaust manifolds off of the engine to give me more room. I would suggest that to you. You have to take out the starter to get to the bottom bolts of the intake mani, they may be a bit hard but hang in there you can do it.

What is your plan? Pulling the tranny and engine together or pulling just the engine?

 

[mp3josh]

 

[blackp5]

Thanks for the reply. What is that black can thing sitting on top on the motor? My plan is to only take the motor out. I plan on taking the intake manifold out because the manifold of the motor I am going to be putting in has the recall for the screw problem. I checked carfax on this. Are you talking about the two yellow things I circled?

Thanks again, you've been a great help.

 

[mp3josh]

those are the caps I was telling you aboot.

 

[blackp5]

Cool. Motor swapping will continue on Tues. because I got work and school tomm. I'll let you know how it goes and when I need more help. Thanks again.

 

[blackp5]

it continues...

So I didn't get a chance to do anything on Tuesday but I'm kinda making up for it today.

- Disconnected the fuel lines and put "condoms" (not really condoms, just cut off fingertips from latex gloves) over it.

- Took the the intake manifold off. It was a pain in the ass doing it, took me about an hour or so. So of the bolts were in hard to reach places. Then the egr tube got in the way so I had to take the coolant/water thing off the motor.

http://www.msprotege.com/members/blackp5/fuel cover.JPG

I know I'm probably gonna need help when I connect all the tubes back and stuff, there were so many.

Anyways back to work. I need to take off the alternator and starter and a few more brackets and i'll be set to pull the motor out.

Oh yea, do I need new gaskets for the throttle bottle and intake manifold?
I probably need the throttle bottle one since it kind of ripped.

 

[blackp5]

question

After fiddling with the alternator and starter, I figured out that I don't need to take them out to remove the engine so I just left it there.

Here's my question:
Do I just remove the bolts in the picture for the driveshaft to come out? Or is there another way to do it?

 

[mp3josh]

yes remove the bolts, but that is not all you have to do, you have to also remove the nut on the axle it self in your hub. That is a 32 mm if I remember correctly. You have to remove the ball joint and everything.

DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
CAUTION:

Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor may possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-speed sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate place where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while servicing the vehicle.
Drain the transaxle oil.

Remove the splash shield.

Remove in the order indicated in the table.

Install in the reverse order of removal.



1 Locknut
2 Tie-rod end
3 Lower arm ball joint
4 Drive shaft
(See Drive Shaft Removal Note )

(See Drive Shaft Installation Note )



Drive Shaft Removal Note
Remove the clinch bolt and nut.

Wrap a rag around the ball joint dust boot.

Pry the lower arm out of the knuckle.



Install a spare nut onto the drive shaft so that the nut is flush with the end of the drive shaft.

Tap the nut with a copper hammer to loosen the drive shaft from the front wheel hub.

Separate the drive shaft from the wheel hub.


CAUTION:

The sharp edges of the drive shaft can slice or puncture the oil seal. Be careful when removing the drive shaft from the transaxle.

Separate the left side drive shaft from the transaxle by prying with a bar inserted between the outer ring and the transaxle, as shown in the figure.



Separate the right side drive shaft from the joint shaft by hammering on a bar inserted between them.



Install the SST into the transaxle to hold the side gears after drive shaft removed.