Engine Oil Rise

[dad of jon]

Dad

Can you explain why the I-stop light being on would make any difference to the turbo requiring cooling?
Thanks for the information by the way.

no probs, as mike m clarified, the i-stop won't activate (green i-stop) and turn the engine off if you stop and the turbo is too hot. it's smart enough not to do that.
of course no i-stop could also be low battery, lots of electical stuff on, a/c - fan , lights etc, or it's doing a regen.

DR_watson. the warning about turbo cooling was on my other car too. At least you have some clues with i-stop as to what driving situations don't require the turbo to cool down.

speaking of cooling it said in my old mondeo that you have to use the air conditioning for 10 mins or so a month otherwise it could fail. I don't recall reading that in the cx-5 manual. But the general idea was if you didn't run it now and again the lubricant for the a/c would not circulate and the a/c would fail.

I read this too late in the manual. Fortunately the garage replaced under warranty. I'd not used the a/c over the winter. most people will be using it regularly. I didn't because I had a quick clear windscreen and tended to use that to demist the windscreen in winter as it did a better job when the engine is cold than a/c.

 

[xtrailman]

Right that's useful to know

I think the point was that cars with istop and turbos are smart enough to know when the turbo is too hot to safely shut down. So owner's can use that feature to signal whether it's ready to manually shut down (or not).

 

[Dr_Watson]

I think my point was with the cx5, there will be no harm done at all by 99.99% of drivers when they turn of the engine off without thinking if its safe to do so.

I think the car has enough bad press without a story of blown turbos because people turned the engine off as soon as they got home.

 

[dad of jon]

I think my point was with the cx5, there will be no harm done at all by 99.99% of drivers when they turn of the engine off without thinking if its safe to do so.

I think the car has enough bad press without a story of blown turbos because people turned the engine off as soon as they got home.

Dr, that's not what I was suggesting, merely if you repeatly mis-treat your car or not heed the cautions in the owners guide, don't be surprised if something fails and lands you with a big bill. I wouldn't want anyone to be faced with such a bill through lack of info, but equally wouldn't anyone to unduly worry. I think there's more chance of people having problems by using el cheapo oil rather (as previously mentioned) than turning off a hot turbo prematurely. If you tow a caravan like xtrailman does it's a bit more relevant. Like I said I thought I'd driven the car 'hard' but when the i-stop came on clearly not! I'll stop at this point because it's the thread is wandering a bit OT.

Meanwhile.... back On Topic: will be checking oil level tomorrow, i've done about 250miles since the ecu update and oil change. I now have the joy of dipstick 'c' to tell me how i'm doing.

 

[dad of jon]

I checked today, oil level at the full (second o mark), good!

I still had trouble reading dipstick 'c' - but then tried a very 'quick' in and out dip got a very clear reading, so that's how i'll be reading it in future, doh!

I think I always used to read the oil level cold on my old car, and even with 5-10 mins before reading the level some oil will still be sinking down the stick to the sump. I've only been reading the oil level warm because it says so in the manual.

 

[xtrailman]

The reason for checking the oil warm is because the volume of the oil increases when warm, so the reading will be higher.

But I suspect you knew that already.

Check oil warm, tyres cold.

 

[AP72]

I checked today, oil level at the full (second o mark), good!

I still had trouble reading dipstick 'c' - but then tried a very 'quick' in and out dip got a very clear reading, so that's how i'll be reading it in future, doh!

I think I always used to read the oil level cold on my old car, and even with 5-10 mins before reading the level some oil will still be sinking down the stick to the sump. I've only been reading the oil level warm because it says so in the manual.

For my own sanity guys can someone clarify what I thought used to be simple...
I got the update, new dipstick and oil change back in march... Checked this week and oil level between full and X. Called dealer and got asked how I was checking oil... By following the TSB document, X to the front etc I replied... Told that dipstick shouldn't be read having been fully inserted and locked just fully inserted then then removed, x to front as per document How is everyone reading oil levels?

- out, cleaned, fully inserted and locked then removed and read?
- out, cleaned, fully inserted NOT locked then removed and read?

Cheers

 

[dad of jon]

But I suspect you knew that already.

ah you sussed me!

I'm sure I read BEFORE undertaking long journey check the oil in a previous cars owner manual. So that for me tends to be first thing in the morning after being left overnight. it's the wait 5 or 10 mins in the mazda owners manual which is a PITA. Surely they could have worked out the expansion difference from cold oil to hot and marked the dipstick to compensate. plus IF you had to add oil it surely would be better not to add cold oil to a hot engine? that way you can check everything when cold before setting off.

anyway I'm over elaborating! the oil could still be making its way down to the sump with the chance of fouling the dipstick.

 

[dad of jon]

For my own sanity guys can someone clarify what I thought used to be simple...
I got the update, new dipstick and oil change back in march... Checked this week and oil level between full and X. Called dealer and got asked how I was checking oil... By following the TSB document, X to the front etc I replied... Told that dipstick shouldn't be read having been fully inserted and locked just fully inserted then then removed, x to front as per document How is everyone reading oil levels?

- out, cleaned, fully inserted and locked then removed and read?
- out, cleaned, fully inserted NOT locked then removed and read?

Cheers

I literally dip the stick in fully. and straight back out. can't say I've 'ever 'locked it'

 

[IHeartGroceries]

On my present xtrail cooling the turbo isn't required, as the turbo is cooled after the engine is switched off.

On my previous xtrail the turbo did require cooling, but only after a extended hard run.

Some high performance Subaru's WRX, continue to run the engine after the engine has been switched off.

Don't know a thing about the new S-D engine, but if it is anything like the DISI MZR in my car, in the MS3 and CX-7, the turbo is water cooled, which essentially nullifies the necessity of idling the car to allow cooling after boosting the turbo.
The cooling system on my car is quite expansive, snaking through (in OE configuration) the block, throttlebody, turbo and power take off unit...
Not sure if any of these designs were carried over into the S-D.

 

[xtrailman]

This was posted today on a caravan forum I go on, caravan talk.

"
Bit of an odd occurrence today :blink:

On my way to Bradford when a warning light appears on the dashboard,

Together with.......



"OIL PRESSURE INSPECTION REQUIRED"


Rebooted the car (stopped it and started it again) - light doesn't come on.

Better get it checked, I thought.

Found the Mazda dealer in Bradford - they took it into workshop to check it out.

Result: "Your oil has deteriorated Sir. We need to bring forward the service and get it done now (ish)."



The car has done 8300 miles.

As the car is leased, with maintenance included it's not so much of a problem for me. The leasing company will have to approve the service 4000 miles early or risk THEIR car going pop.



After a bit of probing I found out that it's summat to do with the DPF regenerating."

This is what the garage have then said.

"
Update:

Just had a call from the dealer.....

The car is subject to a recall.

Parts to be changed to alleviate regeneration of the DPF causing the oil level to rise more quickly than it's supposed to.".

 

[xtrailman]

Don't know a thing about the new S-D engine, but if it is anything like the DISI MZR in my car, in the MS3 and CX-7, the turbo is water cooled, which essentially nullifies the necessity of idling the car to allow cooling after boosting the turbo.
The cooling system on my car is quite expansive, snaking through (in OE configuration) the block, throttlebody, turbo and power take off unit...
Not sure if any of these designs were carried over into the S-D.

I find it quite frustrating having a modern car, just trying to find the location of a engine sensor can be a pain.
In the old days you could buy a Haynes manual that showed you most of what you wanted to know.

 

[dad of jon]

I find it quite frustrating having a modern car, just trying to find the location of a engine sensor can be a pain.
In the old days you could buy a Haynes manual that showed you most of what you wanted to know.

I had a haynes manual for my vauxhall viva, triumph toledo, chrysler avenger, skoda 130gl. After that point my cars were so reliable, I didn't need a manual

I almost bought the haynes manual for 'Man' that was an amusing alternative.

 

[MikeM.]

After that point my cars were so reliable, I didn't need a manual

That's so true in so many ways! I haven't needed a manual for my last 4 cars.

Back in the "bad" old days we didn't buy manuals for each of our cars so much because we wanted manuals, it was because we needed them just to keep the dang cars going.

 

[alex1706]

Received a letter the other day from Mazda requesting I make an appointment with my dealer as part of a "Special Service Programme". This is to have the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor replaced.

"It has been found on diesel vehicles exhaust gas could damage the protective barrier inside one of the gas sensors on the vehicle".

Failure of this sensor could cause the following to appear:-

# The engine warning light may illuminate

# The i-stop function may not work

# There may be excessive "shift-shock" on vehicles with auto transmission

 

[pauly69]

I got that letter too, even though my dealer allegedly did the work two weeks ago! I'm sure they did actually do the work but will go see them with the letter so that records are kept up to date.

My car was also serviced recently, so I'd hope that I've had any related ECU updates. They have done the EGPS and done the dipstick. I have not noticed any decrease in dpf regen frequency. Too soon to tell if the engine oil rise is kept more in check.

 

[Applauso]

I got that letter too, even though my dealer allegedly did the work two weeks ago! I'm sure they did actually do the work but will go see them with the letter so that records are kept up to date.

My car was also serviced recently, so I'd hope that I've had any related ECU updates. They have done the EGPS and done the dipstick. I have not noticed any decrease in dpf regen frequency. Too soon to tell if the engine oil rise is kept more in check.

Ditto. Got the letter today But I was ahead of the game and got it done a month ago because my oil had reached the X. Also how can you tell when its doing a regen?

 

[alex1706]

Ditto. Got the letter today But I was ahead of the game and got it done a month ago because my oil had reached the X. Also how can you tell when its doing a regen?

Mine was done a few weeks ago with regard dipstick & ECU mod.

On getting this notification I phoned my dealer in any case, thinking might not be required as I would have thought was done last time, but he booked me in nevertheless.

Since the ECU Mod, my fuel consumption has improved noticeably. However, after a mere 2,000 miles since then, the oil has risen to half way up from the top line to the X.

Like Applauso though, I Would like to know how do you tell when regen is taking place?

Alex

 

[pauly69]

About the regen, there's nothing to specifically inform you on a UK car, but I can usually 'feel' the difference in engine tone, not necessarily immediately because it is subtle, but the regen lasts for approx. 10 miles or so of driving in my car - the engine feels ever so slightly rougher during regen especially at lowish revs, which when I spot it is a pointer for me to check the real give-away which is the instant fuel consumption. I generally find that unless I'm 'coasting' then any throttle input / real load (as opposed to feathering throttle) will have the instant mpg down in the 20's where I'd normally see it at 40's/50's. I recently took to resetting the B trip-meter whenever I spot a regen, and for me it seems to be approximately every 160 miles, give or take 10 miles each way.

In very unscientific terms, I reckon that during regen the car is using double the normal fuel. Having 2-3 regens per tank of fuel, each lasting about 10 miles, results in quite an impact on overall fuel consumption!

 

[ColinX-5]

I read somewhere that the i-stop does not come in if it is doing a regen ,?? happened to me twice.