engine management

ok, so then why would the full replacement yeild more power than a piggyback? Because it has more main features like timing control as well as air/fuel mapping and spark mapping or is it because each individual part is more detailed, as in it can gain more power by the air/fuel changes than a piggyback could with air/fuel changes?


I assume it is the first, thx again guys =)
 
both. the problem with some piggyback puters (not all) is that the stock ecu continually wants to take control of the most important parts of the equation as much as possible. i also beleive (not sure) that the stock ecu in the 3rd gen family does not allow the piggyback to take control of the a/f at WOT (wide open throttle). perf correct me if i'm wrong...

to me it just seams much easier and more benefitial to just get an aftermarket ecu and be done with it! ;)
 
One of the easiest ways to generally think about a compression ratio is how tight the cylinders squeeze the mixture...A tightly squeezed mixture expands faster, which pushes the cylinders down faster...But it isn't as simple with FI in which more air is forced into the chambers, and fuel, and a bigger volume of mixture expands...That can yield power without good tuning...High Compression yeilds little without good tuning...

So basically look at the number in front of :1 with static compression ratios...Andy explained it well, and basically the bigger then number in front, the tighter the mixture gets squeezed...(10.5:1 is higher "tighter" compression than 9.1:1...11.5:1 is higher, 14.1:1 is nuts)
 
So overall this is the main reason the FS is being seen as such a bad NA engine...No one has fully built an NA FS for the street and used a complete standalone controller...Without it, not many gains happen...It takes a lot of money with little results...But like Nick mentioned, with the right controller you will get excellent numbers with NA setups...
 
k, then the real question comes down to it, what would you suggest then for someone like me wanting to do a mild NA buildup and then FI, get? piggyback or full standalone and especially and brands to lean towards or stay clear of? keep in mind finincial in flow is restricted now as much as ever so my savings will take a little while but I wan to have a path figured out ahead of time.

didnt someone recently geta greddy or aem piggyback to work at all times? or was that just a test phase?
 
OK, since I'm using a piggy-back (a Unichip that we have here), I'll make some observations.

It is quite a bit cheaper than say a Haltech E6X and it is more limited in what it can do and how easily it can be adjusted.

A typical stand-alone will offer more mapping points, finer and wider adjustment etc.

So as I see it, the more mods you do the more sophisticated you will need to go with ECU.
But even at stock level, the conservative nature of Mazda's programming means there are gains to be had.

We found on dyno-tuning mine with the piggy-back that most gains were to be had in the mid-range, not quite so much the top-end, though there was about 9% peak power gain.

It pulls like a sorta "stroker" now, accelerates in 5th better up hills, that sorta thing, with say 3000 rpm and above.
A more "driveable" engine for sure and a tad smoother.

I'm not qualified to comment on whether it deals successfully with wide open throttle, but it does use factory idle settings and retains the rev limiter which here at least is set at 6500rpm.
 
Last edited:
Check out essential speed for they are developing a plug and play for the p5. Hopefully it will be out soon
 
ok, so then upon suggestion of saving for a stand alone.what brands are there to stay vlear of or to lean towards? I know everyone who has a haltech, e6k or e6x loves it and it works great, what other options are there out there, I know spool had the microtech to program but it was expensive and killed the stock tac, plus spool is no more.

Are there main brand aftermarkets that work on our cars, by greddy or aem or do they only make piggybacks.

Basically all that info aside what I am really looking at is what a realiztic price would be to set my goals for saving for this ecu?
 
Critter said:
OK, since I'm using a piggy-back (a Unichip that we have here), I'll make some observations.

It is quite a bit cheaper than say a Haltech E6X and it is more limited in what it can do and how easily it can be adjusted.

A typical stand-alone will offer more mapping points, finer and wider adjustment etc.

So as I see it, the more mods you do the more sophisticated you will need to go with ECU.
But even at stock level, the conservative nature of Mazda's programming means there are gains to be had.

We found on dyno-tuning mine with the piggy-back that most gains were to be had in the mid-range, not quite so much the top-end, though there was about 9% peak power gain.

It pulls like a sorta "stroker" now, accelerates in 5th better up hills, that sorta thing, with say 3000 rpm and above.
A more "driveable" engine for sure and a tad smoother.

I'm not qualified to comment on whether it deals successfully with wide open throttle, but it does use factory idle settings and retains the rev limiter which here at least is set at 6500rpm.
Curiuos to know if you have the EECV EMS on your car since your from over seas
 
Last edited:
p5sundevil said:
ok, so then upon suggestion of saving for a stand alone.what brands are there to stay vlear of or to lean towards? I know everyone who has a haltech, e6k or e6x loves it and it works great, what other options are there out there, I know spool had the microtech to program but it was expensive and killed the stock tac, plus spool is no more.

Are there main brand aftermarkets that work on our cars, by greddy or aem or do they only make piggybacks.

Basically all that info aside what I am really looking at is what a realiztic price would be to set my goals for saving for this ecu?
I wont get too much into it but i'll give you some info. Before you ask why , i'll tell you that it is very competetive out there and i wont go into why and how we are going to do it yet. The EECV unit found on the protege here in the states is very complex. I'm sure you all know this. The car though can run with any EMS. You can calibrate the sensors accordingly and you will have no problem running the car for whatever power level you want. The problem lies in the factory dash. IT WONT WORK WITH ANY STANDALONE. Period. They can say what they want and so on. It wont. That is why Terrys' Microtech didnt do it. And that is why it will take alot of effort by many to get it. I know it sounds vague but it should be just a little longer and we should have it broken. BUT until then we are working on a diffferent setup to help ease the burden. Stay tuned.
As far as piggybacks are concerned there are ways to get around this too but it just is a big hassle. The best way i have seen is to run a vehicle with the stock ecu and a parallel EMS for fuel and ignition.
 
parallel, i have heard of people doing this also, i think that is how someone was using the Greddy unit, as a side by side system with the stock ecu only controling what they want(i think air/fuel and timing)

I know I feel right now about needing to keep the stock tach working but WTH, if it is going to help my car run better I dont mind killing it. Has anyone tried just connecting the stock tach to an aftermarket ecu or what?

Thx for all the info guys, especially twilight, installshield and perf you guys have contributed most of my knowledge on these cars/engines. I appreciate it alot guys.

Time to start pricing things out, and perf, keep us updated on the things your working on they sound real interesting and right down the alley Im looking for.
 
twilightprotege said:
both. the problem with some piggyback puters (not all) is that the stock ecu continually wants to take control of the most important parts of the equation as much as possible. i also beleive (not sure) that the stock ecu in the 3rd gen family does not allow the piggyback to take control of the a/f at WOT (wide open throttle). perf correct me if i'm wrong...

to me it just seams much easier and more benefitial to just get an aftermarket ecu and be done with it! ;)
Here are some highlights of good and bad.
A standalone can control the entire spectrum of usable data. It will run your engine and control various other functions thru auxillary outputs. Sounds real nice huh? YUP but it is not that easy. It requires ALOT of time testing and calibrating so that the stock or any sensors for that matter can be interpreted and then an output to be produced that is efficient and fast enough to handle the demand of the end user. Blah Blah And more Blah
Now with todays technology there have been great improvemnts to the software some of the units use. It can "read" the stock sensor and you can input your desired output without the use of calculator. But never the less it is very difficult to tune without being on a dyno that can simulate real world conditions. . So you road tune. Works well but then you have that pesky ignition table that you try to get close but fear detonation under heavy load and Blah Blah and some more Blah.
For those that dont understand what i am doing , then read on. Standalones are a pain in the ass. I havent even touched the surface, and the level of complexity that is involved when tuning one for any vehicle. Plug and Play or not. The PNP is great only so you dont have to hack a harness for the stock inputs. Other than that it is all up to the quality of the hardware involved controlling the outputs and the ease of software use. That is why tuning rates ($) are so high. BUT they are the best when trying to squeeze the most out of any car reliably.

Now piggybacks. They work well when the proper installation method is used. Why do they work well? because the mapping is already done. The stock ecu is already running the car. A piggy will basically fine tune (manipulate or "clear the resolution path" a little) the stock sensor output or driver to whatever is needed to efficiently get the job done.
For example: many people use the MAF output as a source of A/F compensation. They will increase or decrease the output voltage from the sensor to increase or decrease the amount of fuel the ECU will give to the engine. It is done this way because it is used as a primary source of airflow feedback to the ecu. XXX amount of air is needed for YYY amount of fuel. BUT this is only good when the ecu is not receiving feedback from the O2 sensor telling it is is running lean or rich.. ( closed loop operation)
(sorry for tuning 101 here but some dont understand how it works)
So the piggy will only be good for closed loop operation when the O2 feedback is ignored by the ECU and it relies on TPS and MAF to fuel the engine from pre determined maps. One problem with the MAF signal manipulation is that you lower the load site in the ECU to one that was designated for less airflow and thus more timing lead and less fuel. Since you are now running larger injectors this is OK for the fuel department but how about when at 8psi at 50% throttle.? DETONATION
There are many drawbacks we are just highlighting some of them.
With ignition , many if not all piggybacks will manipulate the stock crank sensor.
The problem here is multifold.
First the software has to be good. Real good. Why? because it needs to be able to accurately mimic the stock signal so well as to not delay the signal back in a form the ecu cant recognize and fire the coils on time. (misfire condition) It also has to be able to advance that signal when you want to advance timing lead. If it cant do this then you are left only to delaying and retarding the signal after the piggy has had a chance to process the info and then throw it back.(Again in lamens terms for all who are not advanced gurus out there)

Lets say it does mimic the signal on the head perfectly. Great. Then you have to pray that the stock ecu takes it. WHY? You are sending the signal either earlier or later to the ecu thru the piggyback. The theory is that if you advance the notice of the signal to the ecu it will think that it is actually at a dfferent and more advanced crank angle. This will, in theory, advance the timing. There is also retard. You delay the signal thru the piggyback so that it will retard the timing. Both ways though allow the ECU to fire the coils normally under stock parameters. OR DOES IT?
See the other problem here is that the ECU gives itself time to begin with. For process latency and the fact that it will in some cases look at the cam sensor to match the signal. Gets tricky now.
The stock ECU for a while may take your manipulation and not say anything. BUT it learns. Adaptive programs learn. It will see that maybe the crank sensor is off. It will see a more consistant signal with very small variations from the cam pickup and adjust the timing back to normal.
So how do we get around some of this. Simple. For fuel and timing we go right to the source. We directly control the fuel injectors. We directly fire the coils. We directly send the car into open loop by advancing the TPS sensor voltage so that the stock ecu goes into a full "demand" mindset. I dont say load there because MAP or MAF are load and TPS is what you want. Demand from the motor to do. That for the most part will throw the car into open loop and then we can fuel away. Then we can also control the coils to fire when WE want by intercepting the stock signal or by creating our own thru the piggyback. All we need is to know the crank angle like the stock ecu does and we are set.

Well there is alot more to this stuff but it just shows why some tuners take the easy way out and use piggys. Not really for lack of tuning experience but for economic and time situations. It takes half as long to tune a basic piggyback and costless too. BUT it is only as good as its peg leg. It is still relying on stock generic mapping. It will still need to be dyno tuned to be optimal. Will you get the same gains as a standalone. Maybe. But IMHO never. Not like what a great tuner can get.
It does get alot more complex i just thought i would share some basic info with those who will by a more performance oriented auto some day and will decide to modify it. Look into the future and see what your goals are. Then see if it will be worth the hobby or the expence for modification. You may want to see what the aftermarket has to offer and see if it will work for you.
Good luck and soon there will be fun stuff for the protege out. I guarantee you that. ;)
My 2 1/2 cents.
 
see that is why most recently I have been reconsidering my long term plans. As I have said a coupel times I wanted to do a small N/A buildup and then a low daily boost application when I had money in a yr or almost 2. But at that point with the money I would be spending and the gains from it I would almost consider(especially with the deals available from dealers now) having fun with my small N/A buildup, maybe an ecu, have that last a little while and then trade it in towards an evo, or rx8.

lots of decisions, the only good side of having no financial backing for what I want to do is it allows me time to think and rethink what I want to do. Especially with the little knowledge I have with a piggy or stand alone I need to factor in the tuning time and money to have someone do it right.

aie, the complexities, and we have but scratched the surface.

thx
 
Holly Christ, Nick. You know a lot. What a great post. Well anyway probably time to reread the article you posted on the page 1, since the more abbreviations there are the more confused I get. And although it is good to know as much as possible about the engine management, it is probably a good idea to stat from building up the engine first and wait untill there is more stuff out there. Thanks a bunch. Keep us updated
 
Last edited:
Much appreciated input, perf!

btw, I believe we use the same EMS here, but mebbe twilight could bag that for sure??
 
Hey Nick, Thanks for all of the great info! And now a few questions, also just so you know I am doing a NA build and I plan to never add a turbo. Is your new "big surprise" going to control timing, or will it just control fuel and let the ECU adjust timing? I assume for a NA build timing will be critical to getting the most hp from the added fuel/air. Would running a standalone parallel to the ECU with only fuel and timing adj. still conflict with the stock dash? Any other conflicts/disadvantages? I have an auto, and from what I understand this would allow me to also have some control over shiftpoints and line pressures. Would the Emanage have the same problems with a NA car that turboge is having? (I assume so)

Also I bought an intake mani from Little Beavis that you had worked on, can you pm me with any info you might have on that?

I'm not sure if I'm asking the right questions, please tell me what else I should be asking for a NA build up.

Thanks for the help,
James T
 
thewrench said:
Hey Nick, Thanks for all of the great info! And now a few questions, also just so you know I am doing a NA build and I plan to never add a turbo. Is your new "big surprise" going to control timing, or will it just control fuel and let the ECU adjust timing? I assume for a NA build timing will be critical to getting the most hp from the added fuel/air. Would running a standalone parallel to the ECU with only fuel and timing adj. still conflict with the stock dash? Any other conflicts/disadvantages? I have an auto, and from what I understand this would allow me to also have some control over shiftpoints and line pressures. Would the Emanage have the same problems with a NA car that turboge is having? (I assume so)

Also I bought an intake mani from Little Beavis that you had worked on, can you pm me with any info you might have on that?

I'm not sure if I'm asking the right questions, please tell me what else I should be asking for a NA build up.

Thanks for the help,
James T
Hey bud,
The ecu we are working on is completely plug and play. You remove your ecu and plug this one in. Very simple. No hacking of the harness. All your stock sensors. Or replace your restrictive MAF and convert to MAP. No extra injectors. Just use your stock or larger. (we recommend 550cc for forced induction and 440cc for N/A with high compression pistons and appropriate cams). IT will control everything. Ignition timing an fuel. We will tune the ecu for the specific application. We are also thinking about a self tune feature with a WB O2 so that it will keep you out of "trouble". Your stock ecu will still be used for everyday functions like cruise control, Tach, speedo, AC switching etc. I am trying to make this as user friendly as possible. So all that needs to be done is physically pluging this bad boy in. Hopefully by the end of January they should be ready to market.
I wont comment on the VERY well known company we are going to be using because we actually have 3 company's that we are concidering. Whoever decides to give us the best support we are shooting for.
Ask away on any questions you may have. I'll try to answer anything i can.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back