engine hesitation Mazda P5
- Thread starter CmazdaX9
- Start date
just an update,been driving to work and back ,doesn't seem to be hesitating unless I'm getting used to it bucking on me ,don't know what to say guess I need to give it more time.Sorry correction drove today and hesi is back ,sorry for the on again and off again update with the hesitation problem
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Ok I'm sorry but I have to jump in on this problem. I have been having serious issues with my 02 P5 and I am about sick of it. I have been having this problem off and on for around half to 3/4 a year. My car will lose power for a second and if i hit the accelerator it will knock hard then start working again. However, recently my car has been dying... I have had a few occasions where I will go up the street for something and I come out and my car will not start at all. After about 15 minutes though it will start. Just tonight I drove maybe a mile up the road and my car lost power. At first it wouldn't accelerate. Then it started dying. I managed to pull off the road before it completely died on me. After about 15 minutes it fired right back up and i drove it straight to my mechanics shop, even though they are closed for the night. The whole way to the shop my check engine light was going crazy while i was driving it. I just kept blinking for a good 5 minutes. I feel like he has been screwing me over here lately and i wanted to get someones opinion on my situation. First he had me replace the Cam Sensor ($380), then he had me replace the Crank Position Sensor ($340). I had read a little on coils and fuel pumps and he basically said oh no that's not true they don't do that. He said once they good bad they go... Obviously I have noticed you guys disagree on that greatly and I agree with you. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just don't know what to do anymore with this thing and its getting really annoying not to mention expensive. Oh and just thought I would throw in this little tid bit, I don't know how accurate it is and that's why I am including it. The mechanic also told me that they have no way of testing anything if it doesn't throw a code or if it isn't acting up at the time they have it. Is this true or are they just trying to rip me off? But ya any help on possible solution would be amazing.
just a thought on this problem,if the car lost power for a sec as you say why would you need to hit accelerator,if it was just a sec like mine does it just keeps going at same speed.No offence 2.knocking usually indicates a crank rod problem3. sounds like when something heats up it causes car to die and when cools its ok,find that item 4. maybe take it to another reputable shop and let them diagnose problem then fix it yourself, You buy what ever and if doesn't work take part back.5. if I can recall correctlyform my experience when pump goes thats it,no half way
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That was what the problem originally started out as. it hasn't done that in a long time. now it doesn't even do that. Now it just dies. It loses power when it knocks the first time. It went into what is considered failsafe mode which is where it idles at pretty much 0 rpms in order for you to get it to the side of the road. Then no sooner did i make a turn to get off the highway it died. It originally started as what your problem was and has progressively gotten worse over time. They originally told me it was a cam sensor and that I needed to replace it. The problem just kept getting worse though. The reason why I jumped in is I saw the same problem I had in the earlier stages. I am wondering too if this could possibly be a the coils because they are due to be changed but supposedly not for another 1500 miles. I thought it just might be the same problem just advanced down the line so far where it is causing more serious effects. I don't have any knowledge on what Mazda has had problems with at all and the only thing I know like the back of my hand is my 92 Jeep Wrangler.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
your code was most likely p0300...which is 'random misfire, multiple cylinders'...
I don't even want to begin on those charges for sensors if they're true...it takes 5 minutes to replace a cam position sensor, and i'm pretty sure its not that much money even from a dealership...the crank sensor probably isn't that expensive either, and only requires a little additional work compared to the cam sensor...
coils...plugs...wires...start with that...if your mechanic is saying 'those cant cause this'...never under any circumstances speak with that guy again...I had an identical issue back in october...occasional hiccup or hesitation...bump the throttle a little, would go away...but then, over time, it got a worse to the point where the car would become undriveable...blinking engine light, zero power, etc...2 coils for $60 total from partsgeek...not one misfire since...you can install them yourself in minutes with just a 10mm socket wrench...they sit right on top of the engine...
I can't guarantee that is your problem, but your mechanic is dead wrong if hes saying 'they won't do that'...
Yes, he is ripping you off big time, never go back to them again.
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- Banned For Being A Troll
Lol, driving with a flashing CEL... Whatever your problem has been compounded by continuing to drive with the strobe.
Flashing CEL means STOP DRIVING.
Flashing CEL means STOP DRIVING.
Just thought I would give you guys an update. Replaced the coils Friday and haven't had a problem since. My CEL came on again but now its from my Catalytic Converter. I believe it is a P0491. I'm not sure the best route to go about fixing this now and I'm guessing it was caused by the misdiagnosis of symptoms which eventually led to this but I'm not sure. Based off my research I have found that it could be either the Bank 1 Sensor has gone bad or the Catalytic Converter is bad. I'm thinking it is the latter unfortunately based off of the data readings i had pulled on the car. The 2 sensors stayed steady for a short time but eventually started fluctuating. Any suggestions on how to go about this?
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- 2002 MAZDA 323 ASTINA SP20 BJII
Sounds like you need a new catalytic converter, if you do not replace coils when they frist start to play up your catalytic converter will bite the dust.
I was under my car tonight and was looking at the converter. It doesn't look like it is to terribly difficult to do myself. Do you guys know how hard it really is? It looks to be about four screws and a couple other things but I am unsure. I have replaced one before but it was on my Jeep rather than my Mazda.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
its easy to remove and replace...can be a little difficult to source a new one though...dealership price is nearly $1K, and at least a few years ago...there were no aftermarket alternatives...so it was either luck out and find a good used one...or, you know...
but that may of changed...a few months ago someone linked an aftermarket pre-cat that was very reasonably priced, not sure if he ended up buying it or not...but maybe there are some available now...
sorry, i haven't had a pre-cat since 2005...not really checking up on their availability haha.
but that may of changed...a few months ago someone linked an aftermarket pre-cat that was very reasonably priced, not sure if he ended up buying it or not...but maybe there are some available now...
sorry, i haven't had a pre-cat since 2005...not really checking up on their availability haha.
No problem haha I don't blame you either. I just checked on rockauto.com and they are very reasonable. They tend to be around 150 or so. I can deal with that after being bent over by the mechanic haha. Thanks for the help and I will post back once i get a chance to replace it.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
oh ok awesome...looks like the pre-cat replacement is no longer a problem...that used to drive people to simply get rid of the car haha.
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- Banned For Being A Troll
Have you tried contacting Rock Auto and seeing if they would ship to you?
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