Engine clicking

[Rac3rX]

from owning a Mazda before, I was attributing it to reg. engine noise. i expect a Mazda to sound like a sewing machine. But, it`s a little bit loud, so I was a little worried. my motor has under 49,000 miles. Well, would I have more noise under load if it were a bearing or something more serious? I dont really have any noise under load.

From what I gather the rod bearing issue would be audible pretty much all the time. Loud on start up and idle (Like somebody banging a screwdriver on the valve cover) It would also be aparent when revin in and out of gear with or without load & it would be faster, louder, & harder metal on metal sounds.

Then there is oil starvation noises that lead to the loss of a rod bearing. This would be a high pitched wine arround 3000 to 5500rpm only when the engine is under load and or hard cornering. This I beleve will lead to the loss of a Rod bearing. It could be due to low oil and or oil sloshing in the oil pan under hard cornering.

There is also the sound of the heat sheild ratteling and exhaust leaks. These are the least to worrie about. There is a sound clip of somebody with the heat sheild making noise.

 

[protegeric]

too bad i recently got a whole new exhaust or i woulda recorded my heat shield rattling. it doesnt do it anymore. ok, well I think ill be good. if somethin goes boom ill take pic.s

From what I gather the rod bearing issue would be audible pretty much all the time. Loud on start up and idle (Like somebody banging a screwdriver on the valve cover) It would also be aparent when revin in and out of gear with or without load & it would be faster, louder, & harder metal on metal sounds.

Then there is oil starvation noises that lead to the loss of a rod bearing. This would be a high pitched wine arround 3000 to 5500rpm only when the engine is under load and or hard cornering. This I beleve will lead to the loss of a Rod bearing. It could be due to low oil and or oil sloshing in the oil pan under hard cornering.

There is also the sound of the heat sheild ratteling and exhaust leaks. These are the least to worrie about. There is a sound clip of somebody with the heat sheild making noise.

 

[joka1]

http://www.msprotege.com/members/joka1/boom,clunk,clunk/100_0999.MOV

if it sounds like this you have problems......... like broken wrist pin most likley. if it is quieter then this but sounds the same, give it a few weeks!!!!

woo hoo now i get a new motor

 

[Moonman8]

http://www.msprotege.com/members/joka1/boom,clunk,clunk/100_0999.MOV

if it sounds like this you have problems......... like broken wrist pin most likley. if it is quieter then this but sounds the same, give it a few weeks!!!!

woo hoo now i get a new motor

holy crap! that's horrible. We received a 2002 Protege ES as a trade last week at the dealership and the motor made that same sound even under just slight throttle. The only diagnosis I had heard about it was "rod knock" which could be translated into several other terms but basically either the connecting rod loosened from the crank or like joka said, the wrist pin came apart and the piston wasn't properly connected to the connecting rod.

 

[joka1]

see my parking lot diagnosis is good (well my roomates who knoes a s*** load abt engines anyway) the noise is from the top end so that is why i said wrist pin! yah......new motor plus tranny overhaul and a block that is salvinable(sp) to rebuild like i want as a spare.

since i will be running 25 psi daily on my new motor!!

sorry i got addicted!

 

[misbehave]

I have the same problem.
I have a p5 with the auto-tran(with manual mode). I notice the noise when I have my window down in a quiet neighborhood when I my engine is at about 2000 to 3000 rpm. I can usually hear it when I am own 2nd or 3rd gear at the manual mode when I am accerating(stepping on the gas) from 10mph to 30 mpg. The noise disappear once I lift off the gas or when I am at 4th gear or when I am over 40mph.
The noise is like shaking some beans inside a can but it's very faint.
The other time I can hear the same noise but louder is when I am going up hill at about 40mpg with my engine reving at about 4000rpm to 4500rpm.
I hope this is not serious.

 

[joka1]

that sounds like heat shield. mine is metal on metal and is topend. drive up and hear it, hell i can fix yours if you want (as long as it is heatshield like i guess!!!!)

 

[misbehave]

that sounds like heat shield. mine is metal on metal and is topend. drive up and hear it, hell i can fix yours if you want (as long as it is heatshield like i guess!!!!)

Wow! Joka! What are you doing staying up this late?
How do you fix that? Let see if I can do it myself.

 

[joka1]

jake? mine, i have to rebuild so i am just buying a new built engine!! then i will build mine as a spare!

 

[nate0123]

wow, yea I never had that noise (whew)

 

[Rac3rX]

wow, yea I never had that noise (whew)

Dude thats what I said (Knock on wood) I heard the vid and got gut wrench.

 

[MazdaGecko]

Dude im almost sure i experienced oil starvation one week ago.

I went to cross a bridge and did a 90 degrees quick turn in a slope to access the brdge and then bam engine seems to have bucked and ran rough metal on metal friction. No cel and car seems to run fine but now im stuck with that click click sound at 3000 rpm in first gear..... more audible when the car is cold but seems to dissapear when car get hot (metal expansion?)

I have a oil change + timing belt and a few other thing planned on tuesday at my garage and ill ask him aboiut it.... might check out for a oil pan removal to check for metal chips or something...

In case of a spum bearing, i need to take the motor apart to change it? Does it require to take out the motor or job can be done from under the car??

i wait for the motor to die and change broken piece or just repair it right now??

 

[mp3josh]

Dude im almost sure i experienced oil starvation one week ago.

I went to cross a bridge and did a 90 degrees quick turn in a slope to access the brdge and then bam engine seems to have bucked and ran rough metal on metal friction. No cel and car seems to run fine but now im stuck with that click click sound at 3000 rpm in first gear..... more audible when the car is cold but seems to dissapear when car get hot (metal expansion?)

I have a oil change + timing belt and a few other thing planned on tuesday at my garage and ill ask him aboiut it.... might check out for a oil pan removal to check for metal chips or something...

In case of a spum bearing, i need to take the motor apart to change it? Does it require to take out the motor or job can be done from under the car??

i wait for the motor to die and change broken piece or just repair it right now??

you need to stop driving it asap. If you keep on driving you may make your crank unusable again. When a bearing spins in the journal it creates a groove on the crank and if you do, 1 you can get the crank micropolished/turned or buy a new one. But if you keep driving and let it mess up more you can go ahead and toss that block out.

 

[GHOSTWHISPER]

ok guys, not sure if this is the same thing. But it sounds like it. I have been trying to get my car back to stock, but i still have a 4-2 header and the corksport full exhaust, I have no heatshields on the car. Well the other day i was driving home and I started to hear noise, "tick tick tick" only at 2-4000 rpms, same as some of you. My girlfriend drove it today, and she said she saw the oil light blink on and off. So i went over to her work and put some oil in, and it stopped for awhile, and started again.

I am trying to get this thing ******* gone. But for ***** sake it wont let me go. I am a horrible mechanic, and I know mazda will **** my ass. I am thinking I should take it to corksport. If I have to buy a new motor, i am just going to find an msp motor and tranny and have CS transplant that s*** and I will just keep my car.

Suggestions???

thanks dudes

 

[WetsuitxNinja]

Trade it in. May take a little bit of a loss, ( I did ) but it is not my headache anymore.

 

[GHOSTWHISPER]

thats what i am hoping to do. get the thing back to stockish looks, then trade her in. How many miles did you have on yours?

 

[WetsuitxNinja]

Little over 30k on it. Mine went back completely to stock, cept the black headlights. I got 10k on the trade in.... at the dealership I bought it from no more than a year ago. Kinda why Im driving a 3, cuz they gave me a nice deal on it, plus 2 grand more than the other car dealerships. If subaru would have matched the 10k trade in, I dunno if Id still be mazda'ing it.

In hindsight I am actually really happy with the 3, and kinda glad I didnt get the wrx. weird eh.

oh and my insurance went down with the 3 vs the p5. yay.

 

[Moonman8]

oh and my insurance went down with the 3 vs the p5. yay.

Any idea why? The S-model 3's have a bigger engine, more horsepower, and have a higher MSRP than the P5 when it was new....so that's kind of weird that insurance on it would be less. Did they happen to tell you why or did it have something to do with you personally and not really the car? Maybe the 3 is safer in some way...dunno.

 

[Rac3rX]

I read through most of the thread and didn`t see much on this. My car taps or ticks at idle then stops when I rev a little. Under load: nothin. As far as I know, there are no metal shavings in my oil pan. I haven`t pulled the pan off, but never seen anything when I drain it. My other Mazda had problems with the hydraulic lifters and I`ve had them replaced in my other Mazda. Think it could be my lifters? I`m guessing the FS-DE lifters are hydraulic.

Anything become of your little tickle at idle?

 

[WetsuitxNinja]

Not sure, nothing has change on my plan or on me personally with the insurance. Id assume it got higher crash ratings