Energy Suspension Bushings Review

[JonnyMiata]

I want to just say they SUCK bad but I have to tell you that the clunk is gone. I now have horrible creaking going on from the metal moving against the polyurethane. So do I live with the clunk or the creaking? I think I will take the clunk. The creaking happens any time there is any movement with the swaybar. So it happens when you start or stop. Very, very annoying. I am hoping Mazda can take them off and replace them with my old bushings on Monday morning so I can head on up to Mid-Ohio for my class.

Mazda, just get this problem fixed......I am growing very tired of this!!!!

:mad:

 

[Kooldino]

Yeah, no suprise that poly makes a squeak. I can't believe that this is still an issue.

 

[flat_black]

What kind of Energy Suspension bushings did you get? The greasable, or non greasable type? The part number for the greasable type is 9.5162. I'd think the smaller would work. Those sizes are for a 27mm bar, which I beleive the MS Protege is. If they aren't greasable, I'd suggest getting the geasable ones, a grease gun, and a fitting to grease it, and that should end the creakyness problem.

For the MP3, the part number from energy suspension is 9.5161 for the 25mm rear sway bar, for those interested. Here's the page you can buy them from:

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=884&prmenbr=361

And the sizes there are listed in SAE. The conversion is 1" for the 25mm bushings, and 1 1/16" for the 27mm bushings, and make sure you get greasable.

I hope this helps some!

- Eddie

*edit* I just recently came to the conclusion that MP3's have 25mm FRONT sway bars, not rear... The rears are 20mm, and the part number from energy suspension is 9.5157 for the 20.5 mm bushing, or 9.5156 for the 19mm, which would have to be bored out, but that may be better than having a .5mm too large bushing. Not sure. I'm also not sure what size the rear sway on a Mazdaspeed is, but I'm pretty sure 27mm is the front, as well. I'll look into it. *edit*

 

[Newf]

not surpised they creak. we tried using some plastic around the bar wayyy back, and man, what a noise it make. The clunk was easier to deal with.

 

[jaje]

did you use the normal red polyurethane ones? those have to be greased on installation and periodically.

if you had a chance to get the units with graphite it is a naturally greasy product but energy suspension has some units that it is intermixed with polyurethane (making them black)...these require greasing only on installation

 

[soundbombing]

Are they red poly. bushings? Those are the worst. There are different colors signifying different stiffness and some other blah blah blah I don't know about. Once I get more info and offer another type of fix then I'll let you know.

 

[PaulMP3]

my clunk is back after 3 weeks. I ready to try some different bushings.

 

[DooMer_MP3]

Hmm. Since I've lowered my car, I don't feel like dealing with bushings changes and warranty issues even though the clunk was obviously there before spring install. I've had mine replaced six times, usually on interval with oil change. Otherwise I'd be in every few weeks .

If any body else has information on these, I'd love to hear it. I would think that the greasable poly bushings wouldn't squeak if they were greased periodically. Is this not the case? Any one? Any one?

Chris

 

[mazdadan]

I have the greasables on my AWR 19mm sway bar and as long as I keep them lubed every few months, they don't make any creaking noises. Just get a high quality marine lithium based grease.

 

[DooMer_MP3]

I might just give them a shot then. To take the bushings off, does the entire swaybar need to be removed to slide them off? Or do you just have to jack the car up to unload the swaybar and then unbolt the bushings?

Chris

 

[PaulMP3]

im gonna order theese also. this is one of the reasons i have delayed my spring install so many times.

 

[flat_black]

Sway Bar Bushing Replacement How To

In order to install sway bar bushings, you'll have to either cut the old ones off if they have no slot, or unbolt the rear sway at the end link. Either way, it's pretty simple of an operation. This is a general how-to, so I'm not sure if it applies to the Protege completely, but here's a basic run down:

1.) Jack the rear of the car up, support with jack stands, and try and make sure the suspension is unloaded. Sway bars shouldn't shift too much if it is, but best to be sure, and all.

2.) Find the two bushings, which should be pretty simple to find. I like to take a minute to take out a silver Sharpie (Shows up on black!), and mark off where the two bushings sit, just in case.

3.) Unbolt either bolt on the first bushing, remove the bracket, if it's not attached, and find out if the bushing is slit or not. If it is, simply spray some WD-40 or silicon grease, and slide it right off of the bar.

3a.) If it is attached, decide if it's worth keeping, and is in good enough shape to put back on, if anything else fails. Cut it, if you wish, or go to either end of the sway bar, and unbolt it from the end links, and get out a can of WD-40/grease, and make sure the bar is slippery, then work it off the bar. Note, if you unbolt it from the end links, it will not be supported by anything, so be prepared to catch it.

4.) Energy Suspension bushings have a generic bracket, and it will need to be bent to fit. Just take it slow, with a pair of pliers or a vice, and reshape it as needed. Once you've done this, take the bushing itself, and find the slit which resides at the top of the bushing. Slide the bushing up around the bar in the correct location, and repeat on the other side. An extra application of grease wouldn't hurt right about now, and will keep the creaking to a minimum.

5.) Position the bracket over the bushing, and bolt it into place using the stock bolts, and torque to specifications. 32 to 44 ft-lbs per bolt, for both the bushing bolts, and the end link bolts. After this, rotate the bar, and bolt on the end links, if you need to, and you should be done. Grease the bushing up with a grease gun and fitting, or bring it to a shop to do so, if you feel like it, and make sure you grease it once per month or two, which should be ample, I'd imagine, as long as you use decent quality grease.

I hope that helps! If you want, I'll post scans from the FSM of the rear sway bar section for illustration, if you'd like.


- Eddie

 

[flat_black]

Swaybar Installation/Removal Images

Here are the pics from the factory service manual... Number 1...

- Eddie

 

[flat_black]

...And number 2.

- Eddie

 

[Newf]

You don't need to take the bar off, and you don't need to cut the old ones off. The bushings have a slice in them already so you can pull them off the bar. At least mine have.

My question is, should their be a load on the car while putting them on, or should the car be on a ramp. I've heard people say both.

 

[funnylittlman]

What about the end links? Haven't they failed for alot of people?

 

[mazdadan]

You don't need to take the bar off, and you don't need to cut the old ones off. The bushings have a slice in them already so you can pull them off the bar. At least mine have.

My question is, should their be a load on the car while putting them on, or should the car be on a ramp. I've heard people say both.

You are exactly correct. No cutting is required and the process takes less than 30 minutes if you know what you are doing.

I like to jack the car up from the rear crossmember to make it easy to get underneath the car and to take the stress off the sway bar. It makes it easier to remove the brackets and bushings.

 

[DooMer_MP3]

Thanks for the help flat_black, mazdadan, newf

What kind of fitting would you need on the grease gun to attach to these bushings for future greasings. Also, where can one get the lithium grease? Any autoparts store? Thanks!

Chris

 

[PaulMP3]

what are the different brands that make the bushings?? I want to order them tonight.

Doomer, I would think that there would be a fitting for a grease gun on the bushing.

Down with the CLUNK!!!!

 

[mazdadan]

Thanks for the help flat_black, mazdadan, newf

What kind of fitting would you need on the grease gun to attach to these bushings for future greasings. Also, where can one get the lithium grease? Any autoparts store? Thanks!

Chris

The fitting is the standard zirk fitting found on most grease guns. You should be able to pick a pump style one up for about 10-15 bucks at Advance Auto Parts or Pep Boys. They carry the small tubes of grease too. They usually come in packs of 3. Just make sure you get a heavy duty or a marine grade of grease. The marine stuff lasts a little longer because water doesn't wash it away as easily.