Electronic Braking Distribution parameters?

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CX5 Sport MT
I don't want to clutter up the other thread on rear brake pad wear so here's another question.

Does anyone know or can direct me to how the EBD system biases to the rear brakes? Is it a fixed bias or is it variable based on the dynamic scenario every time the brakes are applied like the stability control would be? I follow car tech pretty constantly but will plead ignorant on the EBD.

I'm curious to know if my rear brakes have worn out faster since I carry a decent load (usually 200 lbs daily in the cargo area) and run a rooftop cargo box on a regular basis. The extra drag created by the box can exert additional load on the rear suspension of a car. I can't eliminate the gear carried but I may load the car differently.

I purchased new pads from the dealer this morning ($75, down from $99 MSRP!!! Ouch.) I'll post pics when I'm done and will try to get solid measurements of the wear on the front. Reading some various threads, it may be the case that rear brakes will wear out faster than the front due to the EBD systems and become the new normal. In any case, something to put on the radar as the miles creep up, watch the rear brake pads.
 
I've wondered about the same thing on a lowered car. Does the system read the lowered ride height the same as having an extra load and adjust braking force accordingly?
 
We have to switch our mind about the brake wear. Before the first ones wore out first, now with the new system the rear ones are wearing out first. But this way our cars are safer when we are braking, the car's nose won't deep forward, as the older cars.
 
I don't want to clutter up the other thread on rear brake pad wear so here's another question.

Does anyone know or can direct me to how the EBD system biases to the rear brakes? Is it a fixed bias or is it variable based on the dynamic scenario every time the brakes are applied like the stability control would be? I follow car tech pretty constantly but will plead ignorant on the EBD.

I'm curious to know if my rear brakes have worn out faster since I carry a decent load (usually 200 lbs daily in the cargo area) and run a rooftop cargo box on a regular basis. The extra drag created by the box can exert additional load on the rear suspension of a car. I can't eliminate the gear carried but I may load the car differently.

I purchased new pads from the dealer this morning ($75, down from $99 MSRP!!! Ouch.) I'll post pics when I'm done and will try to get solid measurements of the wear on the front. Reading some various threads, it may be the case that rear brakes will wear out faster than the front due to the EBD systems and become the new normal. In any case, something to put on the radar as the miles creep up, watch the rear brake pads.

if the it feels like you are having unwanted wear and tears on your shocks/brakes, grab a pair of ride rites, they are $99 slip right in and you just inflate it with a bike pump. https://www.etrailer.com/Suspension Enhancement/Mazda/CX-5/2013/F4178.html?vehicleid=201314655

or a chassis bar to reduce some leaning/flexing since you carry a load often, inside and on the roof
 
Rear pad swap is done. Pretty simple task as it should be. 14mm Socket/wrench is all that is needed once the wheel is off. Note the hand brake actuates the caliper, there is no separate nor integrated drum brake as on some other vehicles.
I have a manual and use the hand brake daily as I have sloped driveway. That may be the reason for increased wear on the outer pads, don't know.
For reference here's what I measured (metric tape measure, no calipers on hand). Use this information however you desire. I'd like to see feedback from others as their brakes wear to develop a better understanding of our vehicles and how this system operates under different conditions.

OEM New pad thickness is 8 mm

Worn Drivers side rear
Outer = 0mm worn right to the metal backing
Inner = 3 mm

Passenger side
Outer = 1mm
Inner = 4 mm

Rotors have normal surface corrosion and at most 1mm of wear on inner and outer surface based on the lip at the outer perimeter.

Passenger Front wheel for reference. Interesting that the inner pad has more wear which is opposite of the rear brake setup as noted above it could be due to greater use of the hand brake. I did not measure the driver's front. Anyone have access to the new thickness of the OEM front pads?
Outer 6.5mm
Inner 5mm
 
Did you turn the rears? Sounds like you were metal on metal.
 
if the it feels like you are having unwanted wear and tears on your shocks/brakes, grab a pair of ride rites, they are $99 slip right in and you just inflate it with a bike pump. https://www.etrailer.com/Suspension Enhancement/Mazda/CX-5/2013/F4178.html?vehicleid=201314655

or a chassis bar to reduce some leaning/flexing since you carry a load often, inside and on the roof

Actually it carries the load fine. No sagging or anything like that. I'd like to put bigger sways on but it's a low priority. I was tempted to lower it and make more of a wagon but I haven't seen any published spring rates and how they compare to OEM. Again low priority when my Suburban needs suspension work.
 
Did you turn the rears? Sounds like you were metal on metal.
No I didn't. Should I, yes. There is some light scoring but it was all of 3 miles at neighborhood speeds. I'll see how they look after this week of driving on the new pads.
 
No I didn't. Should I, yes. There is some light scoring but it was all of 3 miles at neighborhood speeds. I'll see how they look after this week of driving on the new pads.
I would have for sure.
 
If it is just light scoring and is even all the way around then I would just pop in new pads. What happens is once the pads wear in there will be grooves in the pads that match the disk. You actually have slightly more area. I turn or change rotors when there is uneven spots. chunks missing, that sort of stuff.
 
Paris1 and fdew, you're both correct, sort of. It is common practice to face the rotor (turn) to equal out high and low spots to manufacturer tolerances. But, I've seen many vehicles' brakes that have multiple grooves with only replace pad replacement. Not saying that's right but, you can get fairly normal mileage out of those unevenly worn pads. However, when you have unequal mating surfaces between pads and rotors it can induce more noise, chatter and NHV. It's good practice to have the pad/rotor surfaces to be equal within .001" variation. Just like it was when it rolled off the dealer lot.

Ps- thanks fdew for the report on the pad measurements. Usually new pads come with about 10 to 12/32" of material, but I haven't' confirmed the Mazda's personally yet. I hope you lubed up the calipers slide pins.
 
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