Dyno-mite! (08 MS3 stock dyno)

looks on key to me . Mine dynoed at 261whp and 274wtq with just the mazdaspeed intake . Makes me wonder why mazda put such skinny tires on this thing .
 
Sooo what is the best gear to dyno then? 5th is closest to 1:1, but I don't know how the final drive difference between 4/5 might affect this:

Final-drive ratio: gears 1-4, 3.94:1; gears 5-6, 3.35:1
1: 3.54
2: 2.24
3: 1.54
4: 1.17
5: 1.09
6: 0.85



It doesn't matter. The dyno operator should be entering in the gear ratio anyways.


Dynapack is far more accurate than a roller dyno since it negates all the problems associated with tire pressure, roller inertia, etc. These are harder to find, however.
 
It doesn't matter. The dyno operator should be entering in the gear ratio anyways.


Dynapack is far more accurate than a roller dyno since it negates all the problems associated with tire pressure, roller inertia, etc. These are harder to find, however.

Is that the one that installs on the wheel studs? Flying Miata has that one!!
 
Yes, you remove the drive wheels and bolt the hubs right onto these two boxes. Drivetrain losses are still there, but all that crap with tire pressure and the inertia of the rollers is negated. It's far more accurate (and much safer).
 
It doesn't matter. The dyno operator should be entering in the gear ratio anyways.


Dynapack is far more accurate than a roller dyno since it negates all the problems associated with tire pressure, roller inertia, etc. These are harder to find, however.
Dynapack is not more accurate than a Mustang or a Dynojet. Bottom line is every dyno will put down different numbers even if it the same kind. There is no conversion from one to another or from the same kind. If you are going to go dyno your car....you in reality have to take it with a grain of salt. If you dyno at one place, stay at that place. It is only really a tuning tool.

The only true test is what you run at the track at that particular day.
 
So If I trapped at 99.81 mph in the 1/4 what does that say about my HP?

Note: Probably would've trapped a little higher considering I rode out 4th at about 6500rpms instead of making a shift to 5th..
 
I haven't been to the track yet but I hate the last minute 4-5 shift we gotta do. Too bad they didn't make 4th a little longer
 
i like the fact that it runs out of steam in 4th...

you can go all night running xx.xx time by riding out 4th and then when that money run comes around you can shift at 4th at around 5700 rpm and gain an extra 2 tenths or more =)
 
A dynapack is most certainly NOT more accurate in terms of real wheel horsepower. It doesn't take into effect the friction coefficient of you tires against the road or the weight of the wheels. People on dynapack always dyno OVER stock hp rated from the crank so how can anyone say that is a good representation? A mustang dyno is the most accurate in terms of measuring what you are putting to the road. It uses a load resistance based setup as opposed to a dynojet measuring the tangential force on a drum.
 
A dynapack is most certainly NOT more accurate in terms of real wheel horsepower. It doesn't take into effect the friction coefficient of you tires against the road or the weight of the wheels. People on dynapack always dyno OVER stock hp rated from the crank so how can anyone say that is a good representation? A mustang dyno is the most accurate in terms of measuring what you are putting to the road. It uses a load resistance based setup as opposed to a dynojet measuring the tangential force on a drum.

I was waiting for someone to say something.....
 
Heres my dashhawk record of the run:

dynorun.JPG


boost and everything looks good....but damn its rich as hell (shocked)
 
Pic of my ms3 on the dyno:

P1040777.jpg


The last car on the dyno below....

P1040784.jpg


This was done at the newly opened National Speed Inc in Wilmington, NC. 27 cars on the dyno in one day and the best shop setup I have ever seen.
 
18 PSI and 13:1 AFR. No wonder timing is -7 Degrees (the ECU doesn't want the engine to go BOOM!)
 
+1
Yeah it really sucks we gotta do 5-shifts by the end of the 1/4

My car club rented the 1/4 mile track a couple weeks ago. It made no difference whether I shifted into 5th or just left it in 4th. Both ETA and MPH were roughly the same. Some better, some worse. It seemed I was crossing right at the spot were a shift could help, but the time lost shifting into 5th probably negated any gains.

FYI I ran a best of 13.7 @ 99 & 13.8 @ 100 (mods in sig, but without the Race Pipe and hi-flow Cat). In Arizona with the temps around 85 degrees.
 
My car club rented the 1/4 mile track a couple weeks ago. It made no difference whether I shifted into 5th or just left it in 4th. Both ETA and MPH were roughly the same. Some better, some worse. It seemed I was crossing right at the spot were a shift could help, but the time lost shifting into 5th probably negated any gains.

FYI I ran a best of 13.7 @ 99 & 13.8 @ 100 (mods in sig, but without the Race Pipe and hi-flow Cat). In Arizona with the temps around 85 degrees.


Pretty good but I gotta say for having your mods especially the DP and running DR's I'm not too impressed. You could do much better

I ran 14.37 with a 2.5 60ft and just intake trapping at 99.81 riding out 4th . A good 60ft would have resulted in a 13.8 - 13.9 no problem. I actually bogged the car on this run
I'm in Orlando, FL - Not exactly COLD over there either.
 
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