Dynamat and System Build Questions?

jrodhotrod

Contributor
:
2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Hey guys,

I just got my P5 a little over a week ago and am starting to piece together what I want for my sound system. I have used dynamat before in my previous vehicle which was a 1996 Nissan Pickup, and I have gotta say it helped in there. My question for you all is, would it be worth it to dynamat all four doors in my P5?

I found a place online where I can get the bulk dynamat extreme bulk pack for $109 (see http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mobile-...s/noname71.html ) Also had Raamat suggested to me. This is enough to do all four doors and even double layer or put some someplace else in the car. I can do the install of it myself so installation costs aren't a factor.

Okay, So I gather that Dynamating (or similar) has real benefits, and it's not all hype. My next question for you all is. When you did your dynamat, did you just do the side of the door that the interior trim attaches to, or did you do the other parts of the door as well? (the area that is the outside edge, back of the inside edge) Tangible benefits for a non-competition sound system to justify the extra expense? Also should I seriously consider doing the roof and floor in my Pro5? How difficult is it to get everything out on this car without a moon roof? how long would it take me by myself to do, doable in a Saturday?

I take my music very seriously and what it sound as good as possible within my means. For your information the system that I am looking at right now is without model numbers

upper end XM/MP3 Alpine head unit Either CDA-7894 or CDA-7995 (if i can get the cost down on 7995 I really like the silver in the Pro 5 dash and I wouldn't have to run that seperate power lead that the Alpine 7894 requires since there is no amp in the 7995 head unit)

Alpine R Series 6.5" Components front doors (SPR-176A) Also considering JL Audio XR 570-CSi (price would be about $90 over the cost of the Alpine R series components from my dealer, without install costs on either of them)

Alpine 6.5" 2 ways in the rear doors (SPS-1729S)

Alpine VR series Amp for 4 door speakers (MRV-F340)

Rockford Fosgate sub-Amp

Maxxbling Custom 12" enclosure

Seriously considering the edesign (or something like that, I saw it mentioned here) sub or my Auto Dealer was going to set me up with a Rockford Fosgate HE series.

Further questions include, if I get the sound deadining my dealer would install it on all 4 doors at the same time as the rest of this install for an extra $50 in labor. Worth it?

With this set-up would I need to worry about a Capacitor for the sub in this vehicle (my gut says no, but I am not 100%)?

Is the stock speaker wiring going to adversly affect my sound? In my previous vehicle, a '96 Nissan pickup, I dragged monster speaker cable from the amp to the doors, but that was a much easier install. Basically with this power level will I be okay if I just use the factory wiring?

Thanks for all the help you guys, definetly going to check out some of the dynamat alternatives. If you have opinions on anything let me know
 
The dynamat is good but I'd only use Xtreme the original is just tohard to work with and smells for 2 months if you do it right. I have 2 Bulk packs of Xtreme in my protege MP3 right now. I have done all 4 door and every inch of the trunk. There has been no road noise benefits. The area I think to many people overlook when dooing the doors is the is the inner metal of the doors. Basicly the back of the outside of the door. That metal loves to vibrate and ever since I dynamatted it the music generated outside the car dropped considerably. I only run a 6 1/2 JL audio XR midbass in my doors and it has helped alot. When you doo the doors throw some dynamat on the back of the plastic door panels also. SOme foam weather stripping tape would also be good around the areas that come incontact around the speaker.

I haven't dynamated my roof or floor but those are the next steps I will more then likely take. I would suggest the roof before the floor since we already have some sound deadning on the floor and I doubt we do on the roof.

Capacitors are useful in just about every system so if you have the funds do it. I run 2 caps with my 180 amp alternator.
 
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