Driving style question

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

I will see if I can find the articles for reference but they alluded to even more direct injection buildup if you don't exercise a direct injected engine more often with higher RPM use.

I could summit my ASE write up as soon as I have another ASE proof check it for wording and technical information. hahahaha! I can tell you that most current DI engine will build carbon up and running them at higher RPM levels will not prevent that from occurring. We tested and scoped the intakes and combustion chambers of various platforms with DI and on my own MAZDA 2.5 I have been trying to find ways to lower the carbon that does form. At this point the water/meth injection pretty well stops it but the down fall is tuning for the new volumes of fluid going into the intake. PIA!!!!!!!!

I can say but have no data to confirm it yet the use of top tier fuels like Shell and Chevron and or genuine quality fuel system cleaners seems to effect a slight reduction in carbon formation in the combustion chambers only.

 

[CO CX5]

I've admittedly hit higher rpms a couple of times when messing with manual mode and forgot to shift into 2nd in traffic - still used to it being in "D" I guess. Operator error. Lesson learned - pay attention lol. Nowhere near redline, but the unplanned surprise of it revving to 4k is unsettling. My Mazda probably thought "it's about time you revved me up a bit old man".

 

[ColoradoDriver]

I've admittedly hit higher rpms a couple of times when messing with manual mode and forgot to shift into 2nd in traffic - still used to it being in "D" I guess. Operator error. Lesson learned - pay attention lol. Nowhere near redline, but the unplanned surprise of it revving to 4k is unsettling. My Mazda probably thought "it's about time you revved me up a bit old man".

Been there done that with the manual mode lol.

 

[ColtX-5]

So I was talking to a sales guy who seems to know a good amount about cars while my cx5 was being serviced, and he said that it isn’t good to get rpms above 4k except for when needed. Is this true? I don’t constantly have it over 4k, but it’s fun to mash the gas a couple times on a drive (where it’s safe to). Should I stop flooring it except dire circumstances, or is this guy just too cautious? Thanks for any help, idk whether this guy is credible or not and i’ve been having lots of fun revving right up to redline manyyyy a times in my cx5’s 14k miles.

Obviously, he didn't know that much.

AFTER the engine is fully warmed up and IF it is well maintained (can't go 20k on the oil, etc.), it causes no damage to rev the engine to any RPM below the rev limiter. Fully warmed up takes a lot linger thn most people think. Using a Scangauge II, it takes 7 miles to get the coolant temp to 185F, oil temp takes much longer. It takes 20 highway miles to get the trans fluid temp to 185F. At that point the engine oil is surely up to normal and you can run it like you stole it. Until then, I am gentle on the car.

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

Just a little Mazda engine info those that have a MAZDA Skyactiv engine. These have a balance shaft assembly. While a MAZDA Skyactiv engine is very reliable even at the established maximum safe engine operation (RED LINE) your balance shaft is for low RPM operation and fundamentally not really engineered and designed for high sustained RPM use. Note ,I did not say you couldn't. Those of us that use any engine that came factory with a balance shaft assembly for high or extended RPM use will remove them.

The thoughts that some have regarding what is a warmed up engine is perhaps misunderstood? The MAZDA engine is ready to drive normally as soon as the coolant is 129.9F or when the coolant light goes off. At that time the HO2 are now in closed loop and full sensor input to the ECM. Higher coolant temperatures do not represent an engine being warmed up. Coolant is designed to control higher engine temperature and not a gauge when the engine is warmed up. Likewise oil lubricates and protects the engine from frictional wear it does not represent an engine in any state of being warmed up. The Mazda FWD automatic transmission fluid temperature tend to follow the engines oil temperature's hopefully a little lower. Two things (there are more) the fluid itself does is to lubricate and control some high operating temperature by flowing through the factory transmission cooler which is cooled by the coolant system.

The rev limits factory set in the ECU are different from the RED line on the tach. The factory rev limiters and MPH limiters can easily be adjusted or completely turned off in the ECU.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the SkyActiv 2.0L PE-VPS lack balance shafts?

2013–2016.5 Mazda CX-5
2015–2022 Mazda CX-3
2016–2022 Mazda Roadster/MX-5
2019–2022 Mazda CX-30

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the SkyActiv 2.0L PE-VPS lack balance shafts?

2013–2016.5 Mazda CX-5
2015–2022 Mazda CX-3
2016–2022 Mazda Roadster/MX-5
2019–2022 Mazda CX-30

Honestly, I revised my original write up a few times throughout the day adding much more before posting it. I see that in my own editing I removed the 2.5G in the first line. But regardless the information which pertains to a balanced shaft assembly is accurate.

I am not known for the best use of writing skills (my education was in other fields of study) and that is why on my technical articles before they are released, they get proofread by another ASE, publisher or my marketer.

I do believe I was trying really hard to suggest the use of a prescribed method of cleaning out an engine in this thread is not the best idea with a DI engine.

 

[CX-5um]

Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the SkyActiv 2.0L PE-VPS lack balance shafts?

2013–2016.5 Mazda CX-5
2015–2022 Mazda CX-3
2016–2022 Mazda Roadster/MX-5
2019–2022 Mazda CX-30

I thought so? My wifes 2013 CX-5 is a 2.0 and I try to redline it a few times on the weekends in manual mode. It seems to rev more freely than my Mazda6 2.5 skyactive.

The 2019+ miatas redline at 7000rpm. 2022 Mazda MX-5 Miata ST – Compare Vehicle Specs and Trims | Mazda USA

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I was thinking about MikeM's post about it many years back as he had a '13 w/2.0L

What surprised you about the CX-5 after you bought it?

If you are pushing wide, it's because you are going too fast for the conditions, your tires are crap or you aren't skilled enough in winter driving, not because you have a 2.5L and can't produce as much grip in a corner. Sure there are advantages to having a lighter front end, but they are...

mazdas247.com

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

I was thinking about MikeM's post about it many years back as he had a '13 w/2.0L

hmm? I read that response you posted..... No comment.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

I keep my cars for decades, maintain them beyond what is called for in manual, and throw the hammer down as needed. I haven't thrown a rod yet and don't plan to change behavior.

Mine has had a solid diet of Mazda moly and no visible oil consumption on dipstick between changes... undoubtedly there are a few ounces that aren't easily seen on dipstick but I think most get the point.

 

[181962]

Getting back to the OP and the advice to keep it under 4000 rpm:

Every time I leave my neighborhood, I always go from stopped onto a 50 mph road, up to 55 mph often over a somewhat short run if there is an approaching vehicle. In those cases I'm nowhere near floored, I don't use sport or the manual shifter (or TCS Off for that matter), and I would not consider this particularly aggressive acceleration. It's just driving for the circumstance.

I don't normally watch the tach but after reading this thread I did this morning. Under this scenario the tach topped 4,000 rpms a tad on two automatic shifts.

Conclusion: The OP advice is complete bunk. You would in fact have to drive like a granny to keep it under 4,000 rpm consistently. Redlining it all day every day is a different question.

 

[Pitter]

My 2020 Signature just bogs if over revved, doesn't allow me to exceed the red line.

 

[Sig cx-5]

My 2020 Signature just bogs if over revved, doesn't allow me to exceed the red line.

In neutral, like you're hitting the rev limiter?

 

[cz5gt]

keep it under 4000rpms is for diesels
never trust sales people as well

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

Getting back to the OP and the advice to keep it under 4000 rpm:

Every time I leave my neighborhood, I always go from stopped onto a 50 mph road, up to 55 mph often over a somewhat short run if there is an approaching vehicle. In those cases I'm nowhere near floored, I don't use sport or the manual shifter (or TCS Off for that matter), and I would not consider this particularly aggressive acceleration. It's just driving for the circumstance.

I don't normally watch the tach but after reading this thread I did this morning. Under this scenario the tach topped 4,000 rpms a tad on two automatic shifts.

Conclusion: The OP advice is complete bunk. You would in fact have to drive like a granny to keep it under 4,000 rpm consistently. Redlining it all day every day is a different question.

There are several things that the ECU adjust to.... depending on your Throttle % aprox. 48% is about 3800 RPM moderate acceleration from 0-60 is about 6.75-7 seconds on a zero elevation flay straight road. The factors may change depending on the octane used because the ECU WILL retard ting and adjust fueling which changes the evens torque vales and may slow the acceleration time and the need to raise the RPM shift points.

I think the term drive like a granny no longer applies in our society... I live in a 55 and older Del Web communality and they all drive aggressivily.....like teenagers in high school

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

I keep my cars for decades, maintain them beyond what is called for in manual, and throw the hammer down as needed. I haven't thrown a rod yet and don't plan to change behavior.

Mine has had a solid diet of Mazda moly and no visible oil consumption on dipstick between changes... undoubtedly there are a few ounces that aren't easily seen on dipstick but I think most get the point.

Unless you changed some ECU maps and use nothing but 93-95 octane their are several things the ECU does to protect the engine all at the expense of reducing your torque levels of the engine by what I understand from your post driving style is. The rods are the least rotating part that would fail first and when that time comes I am sure you will cry foul to the auto manufacture engine instead of your driving habits.
Using MAZDA labeled motor oil does not mean extra protect above all other motor oils. And for another well worn subject the choice of motor oil is really directly influenced by the driving style when and engine is run as you said quote " throw the hammer down as needed" !

 

[Buzzman12]

Getting back to the OP and the advice to keep it under 4000 rpm:


Conclusion: The OP advice is complete bunk. You would in fact have to drive like a granny to keep it under 4,000 rpm consistently. Redlining it all day every day is a different question.

Have to agree. I was out this morning just doing my normal runs in the neighbourhood, picking up groceries and stuff, and decided to watch the tach a little closer. I'm not an aggressive driver, but I passed 4,000 rpm's many times just getting down the road from one store to another.
Like you said, you'd have to drive like my dead mother to keep it under 4K revs all the time.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Not trying to get too far off topic but aside from mechanical defects from the factory it seems a good majority of engine mechanical issues are related to a lack of fluid maintenance. I live in an area of hills, mountain passes, gridlock traffic, short on-ramps, when freeways are open you find yourself the slow guy doing 70+ in the slow lane.... I would fear for my life taking it easy on a freeway merge around my parts working with just 4k and below. Further OT... if you like engine teardown videos.. fun ones here. A few Mazda motors in the mix.

 

[181962]

There are several things that the ECU adjust to.... depending on your Throttle % aprox. 48% is about 3800 RPM moderate acceleration from 0-60 is about 6.75-7 seconds on a zero elevation flay straight road. The factors may change depending on the octane used because the ECU WILL retard ting and adjust fueling which changes the evens torque vales and may slow the acceleration time and the need to raise the RPM shift points.

I think the term drive like a granny no longer applies in our society... I live in a 55 and older Del Web communality and they all drive aggressivily.....like teenagers in high school

6.75-7? That would require a miracle. Note the trim of the person to whom you replied.

Consider "granny" a term of art. They also crash their golf carts driving drunk down at The Villages. That's after spreading STDs around the joint.