differences after clutch, flywheel and engine mount change

army26m

Member
:
MP3
I have a MP3 with 126K on it. clutch, fly wheel, front engine mount and front sway bar bushings were bad and needed replaced.
I had the clutch replaced with an exedy stock clutch and fidanza 7lb fly wheel. was supposed to have all the engine mounts replaced with AWR 88 durometer but shop said they could not get the passenger side inserts out(set next to belts) but said they looked fine. so they replaced the front and rear mount and driver side inserts. they also replaced the front sway bar bushings with greasable urethane ones.
when i first picked up the car. the idle was horrable. stalling out horrible. but they disconnected the battery, so I figured the ecu had to relearn it. so I've put about 200 miles on it. the idle is better but still lower then before. I love the clutch now. no issues at all. smooth, quick. I dont notice any different with the lighter fly wheel. was expecting the RPM's to raise and fall quicker, but seam to be about the same. alot of vibrations especially around 1K RPM's. I expected more vibs, but not to this extent. mirrors are blurry now. I can live with it. but the issue i have now is the engine itself sounds a lot louder. I'm a little under the weather now with head cold, but a 2 hour drive in the car gave me a splitting head ache. I was wondering if the shop had to loosen/ remove part of the exhaust to do the work. thought that would explain it being louder. but they said they didnt touch exhaust.
also, before at 25 mph, id be in 3rd and be ok with it. now seams like i need to be in 2nd. and at 65-70mph engine noise is louder in 5th to where I feel like I need to shift up.
Since i had all the work done at once, its hard to try and pin point it. I've never had a vehicle long enough to have the clutch or engine mounts replaced before, so I dont really didnt know what to expect. I have headers for the car but have yet to install them. was hoping new gaskets would fix that problem.
are the new mounts the cause of the engine sounding louder? I can understand more vibs, but sounding louder?
Is this normal and i just have to deal with it. or maybe something not right? I trust the shop i went to but things go wrong sometimes. this might be one of them.
guess just looking for other thoughts. thanks
 
your rear engine mount is making your entire cabing vibrate. that explains the loudness, vibrations and blurring mirror! you can get away with having just the upgraded front and sides.
 
ChopstickHero said:
your rear engine mount is making your entire cabing vibrate. that explains the loudness, vibrations and blurring mirror! you can get away with having just the upgraded front and sides.

would dropping down to a 70 durometer rear mount make a huge difference? or should I go back to oem mount?
 
army26m said:
would dropping down to a 70 durometer rear mount make a huge difference? or should I go back to oem mount?

I'm debating this too. I just installed the AWR rear mount last weekend. The idle while warming up is horrible, and the interior noise from the engine is MUCH more than before. After the engine warms up though, I'm happy. I'm thinking about going back to stock in the rear, or maybe the 70 as well. I still had too much engine movement with only the front mount installed though, that's why I did the rear. I don't have the side inserts either.

I'll let you know what I do, that is, if you don't change something first.
 
I replaced the spark plugs, NGK BKR5E were in it. I replaced them with NGK ZFR6F-11. I'm not sure if it was so much the type of plug or just having new plugs in. but it helped with the low idle. the more i drive it the less vibs there are. at first the mirrors shook the whole time. now they only shake at idle. I've got just over 500 miles since the change. I'll give it 500 more miles or so. see what happens. then if need be ill go to the 70's.
 
the passenger side mount is not hard at all to take out. took me like 10 or 20 mins to take it out. the vibration is probably that bad due to the rear mount like someone said. and people have bad idle because of a piece on the throttle body. there is a how to on here somewhere. requires a t-25 tool or something. forgot what it was called. ill try to find the thread.
 
My car was much better once I had front and rear and both sides in. Still a lot more vibration than stock though.
 
AznXstazy said:
the passenger side mount is not hard at all to take out. took me like 10 or 20 mins to take it out. the vibration is probably that bad due to the rear mount like someone said. and people have bad idle because of a piece on the throttle body. there is a how to on here somewhere. requires a t-25 tool or something. forgot what it was called. ill try to find the thread.

The EGR vavle gets plugged with carbon deposits. There's cleaning instructions in the How to section. I will prob. try this soon.
 
I replaced my front engine mount with the ********** billet alum 62A durometer mount and it still vibrates! idle at 800 is perfect. At 700-750 it's s***!

But wow... just the front mount on my 03.5 speed changed the feel... can't wait to break it in and get the rear installed. obviously it shakes but when you are driving, it's great and car pulls instantly.

i would not see myself driving around with 88A or 95A duro!
 
^it all depends on your setup. I have a 95 duro in the front with custom filled everywhere else...it's a dream setup in my books and I barely get more vibration at idle unless I've got the AC going, which is basically never
 
^it all depends on your setup. I have a 95 duro in the front with custom filled everywhere else...it's a dream setup in my books and I barely get more vibration at idle unless I've got the AC going, which is basically never

How's your wheel hop?
 

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