Dealer based brake flush question (Help! Those who know dealer services)

[bmninada]

I replaced my 10+ year Mazda OEM hoses with Goodridge stainless steel braided lines. Then did a manual bleed. Unfortunately, result is not good.
After much debate I realize in most probability I introduced air while changing hoses. I can bleed again but my fear is - what if it's in the ABS? 1 solution I heard was to take the car out - brake hard and fast 6 to 10 times and usually works (for ABS). The keyword here is "usually".

I have decided to bite the bullet and go to the dealership. I know Mazda does offer a software option to cycle ABS for bleeding. I believe Mazda calls it DSC. Problem is this: When I talking to service guy and this exact thing I got back from 6 dealers I called: "We put the car in service/maintenance mode and flush. It takes care of ABS bleed. There is only this single process, as per Mazda and that's what we do." Another funny thing is they won't budge - since car originally took DOT 3 they just won't put DOT 4. This one though - I understand and accept.

My belief has always been car in service/maintenance mode = EPB disengaging. I thought that option to bleed "DSC" (as per Mazda) is hidden elsewhere in the menu. I may be wrong since vaguely remember reading it somewhere.
I need some assist here : when dealers do a brake flush on a 2016 CX5 does the Mazda approved process automatically ensure ABS bleeding takes place / ABS cycles thru while flushing?

Can someone assist me? Note: If I had not changed brake lines I wouldn't be asking this. In normal situations - the usual brake flush process is perfectly fine. Only asking since I flipped the hoses, etc.

 

[Lazy2.5]

Getting the dealerships mechanics to take care of this is similar to having a team of monkeys with wrenches working on your car. No disrespect to monkeys, of course.

I'm sure a competent shop will take care of it for you. Probably just some air in the system and needs to be bled again. Maybe you're overthinking it with the abs and all that.

 

[misnblu]

I replaced my 10+ year Mazda OEM hoses with Goodridge stainless steel braided lines. Then did a manual bleed. Unfortunately, result is not good.
After much debate I realize in most probability I introduced air while changing hoses. I can bleed again but my fear is - what if it's in the ABS? 1 solution I heard was to take the car out - brake hard and fast 6 to 10 times and usually works (for ABS). The keyword here is "usually".

I have decided to bite the bullet and go to the dealership. I know Mazda does offer a software option to cycle ABS for bleeding. I believe Mazda calls it DSC. Problem is this: When I talking to service guy and this exact thing I got back from 6 dealers I called: "We put the car in service/maintenance mode and flush. It takes care of ABS bleed. There is only this single process, as per Mazda and that's what we do." Another funny thing is they won't budge - since car originally took DOT 3 they just won't put DOT 4. This one though - I understand and accept.

My belief has always been car in service/maintenance mode = EPB disengaging. I thought that option to bleed "DSC" (as per Mazda) is hidden elsewhere in the menu. I may be wrong since vaguely remember reading it somewhere.
I need some assist here : when dealers do a brake flush on a 2016 CX5 does the Mazda approved process automatically ensure ABS bleeding takes place / ABS cycles thru while flushing?

Can someone assist me? Note: If I had not changed brake lines I wouldn't be asking this. In normal situations - the usual brake flush process is perfectly fine. Only asking since I flipped the hoses, etc.

If you didn't completely drain the system of fluid and capped off the hard lines while replacing too the stainless lines the ABS is not the issue.

You didn't state if complete drain was done from the master brake reservoir to the brakes.

Let us know.

 

[zx10guy]

I agree with the above. Unless you ran the brake fluid reservoir dry which put air into the ABS module, I don't see needing to bleed the ABS module as the problem.

The service mode the dealers are talking about with bleeding the brake system is done via a scan tool. The scan tool cycles through each of the actuators/solenoids in the ABS module to perform bleeding of air. The Thinktool Pros scan tool I have has this functionality. In the next couple of years, I'll be looking to buy a newer scan tool so I can fully service my 2025 CX-5. With all the new features being added to new scan tools, it's worth paying for a new scan tool with 2 years of updates versus updating the one I own now.

 

[Jmaz]

About 1-1/2 years ago at ~72k miles the brake hoses on my 2014 got replaced (proactively) and naturally system bled. After bleeding the pedal would go almost to the floor but could be pumped up to provide good braking. Questioning whether there truly was some air left and that the service manual gave no mention of bleeding ABS I just drove it around for 1/2 hr or so with the usual many stops. Parked the car. Later that evening after being parked a few hours, I found the pedal had firmed up when I drove the car again. Brakes about 80-90%. Parked overnite and in the morning the pedal was firmer due to new hoses and back to original height. Weirdest experience I ever had after bleeding. Just my experience.
I guess you could try a gravity bleed of all 4 calipers at once and monitor the reservoir level.

 

[bmninada]

If you didn't completely drain the system of fluid and capped off the hard lines while replacing too the stainless lines the ABS is not the issue.

You didn't state if complete drain was done from the master brake reservoir to the brakes.

Let us know.

My apologies - I should have stated what was done.
My mechanic first removed the hose OEM and then put the stainless steel one. This he repeated for 4 wheels.
Then he opened the bleeder and bleed the system 1 wheel at a time.
At the end he torqued the bleeder to close - all 4, then went top side and filled up to almost the cap and the closed the cap. He was checking off and on the reservoir to ensure its always has fluid. This he did after his helper pumped the brakes from inside - while he did 1 by 1 each wheel.
Then before giving me the car and before going for a test drive he did these:
1. Engine completely off and he rapidly pressed the brakes and brake got real hard. Then he applied a lot of force but pedal didn't move.
2. He kept the force applied for 30 seconds and told me "pedal didn't dip".
3. He started the car and repeated this but this time stopped pedal press as soon as calipers engaged (helper assisted).
4. Then he kept his foot on brake pedal for 30 seconds.
5. His helper looked too and they both confirmed pedal doesn't dip.

Finally he went for a test drive and returned me the car saying full purge done and there's no air in system.