Deadlydave's Sane 2
- Thread starter deadlydave
- Start date
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
Firstly, that's what she said.This needs slammingPlease lower it!
Secondly, definitely going to happen, but may not be until next spring, as my real project car needs quite a bit of TLC this year.
Stupid question: Anyone know if the Bilsteins are height-adjustable?
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
I installed a DIY leather-wrap kit for the steering wheel on my 2 this weekend. It took about 3 hours, and I mutilated one of my fingers when I slipped with the needle. But it feels great, and looks surprisingly good good. I also chucked a cheap ball-style shift knob on--Gunmetal in color with red shift pattern engraving. Pics to come later.
Also had a chance to drive the car more aggressively this week. The step up from the 185mm wide eco tires to 205mm wide summers is astounding, though it has introduced more body roll.
Also had a chance to drive the car more aggressively this week. The step up from the 185mm wide eco tires to 205mm wide summers is astounding, though it has introduced more body roll.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
I was gifted a $25 RockAuto certificate and the car was in desperate need of some more neutral handling. A much older post in the Mazda2 suspension subforum, which I can't seem to find, listed a General Motors rear lateral link, part #10409660 which has been discontinued. The New part number #2599016. If anyone can find the original(or poster) please post it so I can give them credit--I have the how-to and the part number, but stupidly did not save the poster's name.
The box. A GM 'murican replacement part, made in China.
The Bar. A couple of things. Rubber bushings on each end mean that this will not be as effective as a fully metal bar. Different size eyelets at each end also mean either buying a 2nd set of bushings for one side, and swapping them in, or just slapping bigger bolts in. I went with the latter option, which I imagine actually causes a slightly different weight transfer rate in a left versus right hand corner. This is a free part, and an experiment. Plus, on an otherwise stock suspension, a few MM more bushing on one side doesn't seem like a lot to worry about. I can give the exact nuts/bolts/washers/spacers breakdown if anyone is interested. Per the original writeup, these were supposed to be 1/2" on each side, but obviously not the case for mine.
The beam before. Very clear where this thing should go.
After exactly lining up the bar(this was actually my first step, before I bought the nuts/bolts), I left it loosely lined up with 2 sharpies, just to clearly show where the holes are, in case anyone wants to put the actual appropriate part on.
After install. My only gripe is that I couldn't find a 7/16" locking nut for the 'narrower' side. I'm checking the car every day, if the nut starts to back off, I'll slap a 2nd one on there with a dab of loctite.
So for about $16 at Lowes, I got this on the car. It plays very well with the stock suspension and wider wheels and tires I'm running. When I first stuck them on, the car stopped feeling like it rotated around the midpoint of the car. Sure the car was grippier, but it didn't really 'feel' the same. With this mod, the car again feels like it's turning around the mid-point of the car. It works for me, for the car, now, but when I upgrade the suspension, it will probably be a bit outmatched.
The box. A GM 'murican replacement part, made in China.
The Bar. A couple of things. Rubber bushings on each end mean that this will not be as effective as a fully metal bar. Different size eyelets at each end also mean either buying a 2nd set of bushings for one side, and swapping them in, or just slapping bigger bolts in. I went with the latter option, which I imagine actually causes a slightly different weight transfer rate in a left versus right hand corner. This is a free part, and an experiment. Plus, on an otherwise stock suspension, a few MM more bushing on one side doesn't seem like a lot to worry about. I can give the exact nuts/bolts/washers/spacers breakdown if anyone is interested. Per the original writeup, these were supposed to be 1/2" on each side, but obviously not the case for mine.
The beam before. Very clear where this thing should go.
After exactly lining up the bar(this was actually my first step, before I bought the nuts/bolts), I left it loosely lined up with 2 sharpies, just to clearly show where the holes are, in case anyone wants to put the actual appropriate part on.
After install. My only gripe is that I couldn't find a 7/16" locking nut for the 'narrower' side. I'm checking the car every day, if the nut starts to back off, I'll slap a 2nd one on there with a dab of loctite.
So for about $16 at Lowes, I got this on the car. It plays very well with the stock suspension and wider wheels and tires I'm running. When I first stuck them on, the car stopped feeling like it rotated around the midpoint of the car. Sure the car was grippier, but it didn't really 'feel' the same. With this mod, the car again feels like it's turning around the mid-point of the car. It works for me, for the car, now, but when I upgrade the suspension, it will probably be a bit outmatched.
I made one also out of stainless tubing.Nice cheap and easy solution. I've been running this with crazy spring rates on a Bilstein coilover setup for the last few events while I re engineer my setup. It's held up quite well. As you mentioned, not as effective as other solutions out there, but for less than $50 all in, it works, and available from any local parts store.
I used an old Autozone store credit I had. Retail on the Chinese bar is somewhere in the $24 range. Grade 8 hardware was $11 from Home Depot.
I used an old Autozone store credit I had. Retail on the Chinese bar is somewhere in the $24 range. Grade 8 hardware was $11 from Home Depot.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
I saw that--looks a LOT nicer than than mine, and also more effective. Props!
I'm very satisfied with it. I can't wait to get upgraded shocks/springs, which I will be buying this winter and putting on in the spring.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
I just did 23 hours of overtime this week, and have roped a friend in with a new 3, so I will be placing a fair-sized order with Corksport in the next few days. Also, my lady's 4 year old Nissan Versa's exhaust just disintegrated and is being replaced, so that makes my purchase very defensible. She really loves the new 3's but can't afford one yet. If I manage to convert her, I might need to ask CS if they do 'fleet' accounts.(cabpatch)
I could machine you some delrin ones if you want. I think it's overkill but I still have the bar and the stock to do it.
pm me if interested and I'll get an idea of cost.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
Delrin rear bar bushings are coming soon, Corksport Catback is going on the car today, and I'm cleaning off my winter steel wheels and getting them ready for a change of color. I think I have the color finalized to a medium green, or white. I'll try to post a few photoshops tonight, as I've already got the tire lettering colored.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
I'll grab one tomorrow. It's holding up pretty well, actually.
Some ideas for my steel wheels this winter.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
Here's a pic of my steering wheel wrap and shift knob that I never posted:
This is the car with only the stock cat and resonator on it. This is what my red E30 sounded like for the majority of the time I owned it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsmKWIknxys&list=UUXi-6cOVMzfT17qQaXGoWmg
Midpipe/stock cat/resonator junction
Not for me, but there's definitely some potential for someone run a sidepipe out from underneath the PS rear rocker area. The heat shield goes within a couple of inches of the edge of the undercarriage.
This is the car with only the stock cat and resonator on it. This is what my red E30 sounded like for the majority of the time I owned it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsmKWIknxys&list=UUXi-6cOVMzfT17qQaXGoWmg
Midpipe/stock cat/resonator junction
Not for me, but there's definitely some potential for someone run a sidepipe out from underneath the PS rear rocker area. The heat shield goes within a couple of inches of the edge of the undercarriage.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
Winter wheels/tires are on. Plasti-dipped stock steelies with 'custom' center caps. Tarted up the tires some too, for giggles. looks like a little rally car now.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
You're only a few hours away from me, we should meet up when the setup is complete! I wanna hear that.
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
About 2 weeks ago, I ran in one of the soggiest events I've ever seen. Parts of the A-X course had several inches of standing water. Everyone was running 30's and 31's, and somehow I laid down a heroic 29.7. In the end, the course dried out so I was relegated to mid-pack, even with a quicker 27.7. But there is something satisfying about having "the slowest" car, yet not being the slowest. I could use all 100hp, and the new CS springs/struts set to the middle feel perfect for 205 street tires I'm running.
I'm really happy with everything about the Corksport strut/spring combo. I was going to dump some cash into my WRX for some oiling upgrades this coming winter, but I find myself staring down the 'more mazda parts' rabbit hole. (shady)
I'm really happy with everything about the Corksport strut/spring combo. I was going to dump some cash into my WRX for some oiling upgrades this coming winter, but I find myself staring down the 'more mazda parts' rabbit hole. (shady)
deadlydave
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda 2
Following some others' DIY, I pulled my engine mount and filled the gaps with Polyurethane. McMaster-Carr sells pour-able stuff in tons of different hardnesses. I went with the 94 durometer black poly, and gave it the full week recommended to cure. Cons: At cold idle, and when first slipping the clutch from a stop, the NVH increase is substantial, you can feel more vibration in the wheel too. Pros: Under hard accel/decel and shifting, i'm not missing any shifts, which was happening on occasion before. Overall, a good mod for the work/cost, though I'd recommend softer polyurethane for most street applications.
