Dead Battery Already?

lxpony said:
battery has ZERO function when the car is running - battery's only to power the car's starter - once car is running, anything and everything gets it's juice from the alternator- if your car bogs when all that crap is on while car is running it means your alternator cannot keep up- absolutely separate funcationally from the battery....:cool:

Yes, it could be problem with alternator output or regulating the power.

- ZoomFive
 
Tondano_P5 said:
2 years + 3 months still going strong.
I make 1 full hour drive from home to the office in the morning and 1 full hour in the evening (going back). So the battery always gets recharged 2 hours everyday. I think the more short drives you make the worse it is for the baterry.

That's assuming that the battery still takes a charge or the output of the alternator is ok. 45-60 minutes each way for me. Sometime traffic, sometimes not.

- ZoomFive
 
i paid 109.00 for the red top with the 3 year replacement warrenty. i got it at advanced auto parts
 
My battery was dead when I picked up my car from the shop after sitting for almost a month. I want a Yellow Top Optima, but can't justify the cost. How's that Red Top treating you?
 
The alternator on our car doesn't run all the time. It has a clutch which only engages when the voltage drops sufficiently. You can see this by putting a volt meter on the battery post and watch the voltage drop until the alternator kicks on. Any bogging is probably just noticing when the alternator kicks on.

There are also some ground loops I noticed when checking my car out. The standard wiring on the highbeams and the radiator fan and aux radiator fan draw the entire system voltage down by up to 1/2 a volt. These have been mentioned in other threads in performance.

The car idle bumping up when the fan is on, it most likely is when using the defrost which activates the A/C. There is no active indication the A/C is on when using the defrost. The idle speed with the A/C on if 50RPM higher than normal idle. The fan switch also actives the A/C, with no fan on the A/C compressor is idle as is the Aux radiator fan.
 
erockp5 said:
The car idle bumping up when the fan is on, it most likely is when using the defrost which activates the A/C. There is no active indication the A/C is on when using the defrost. The idle speed with the A/C on if 50RPM higher than normal idle. The fan switch also actives the A/C, with no fan on the A/C compressor is idle as is the Aux radiator fan.

Don't forget that the A/C compressor also runs when the vent is set to blow on the floor-only position. I've never seen any other car that does this. I've mentioned in other threads that I hate this and wonder if there is a way to change it. It's a needless waste of HP and fuel.
 
I ended up getting a top of the line Duralast battery last night from Autozone($80). 800CCA! Better than the stock Panasonic battery wity 300CCA. :wtf: I'll get an Optima later.
 
the battery killer is the deep discharge, aka i left my headlight on kinda time.

about 4 deep discharge, the battery lead plate loose it ability to function well.

the other thing that is kinda unknown to most of the guy is that the battery tie down is VERY important, you will shorten battery life with all the acid and water flowing up and down and all the bumps in traffic.

those info are straight from my ase manual:)
 
Check your water level too. The level on some of my cells were pretty low on my new 03.5 battery. (add distilled H2O only)
 
elfhearse said:
Check your water level too. The level on some of my cells were pretty low on my new 03.5 battery. (add distilled H2O only)

da_n, you still sporting a maintaince required battery??
 
I have a ground wire system in mine, no difference other than the car not shocking me when I get out and the headlights don't dim with I use the powerwindows.
 
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