CX-5 Suspension noise

:
2013 CX5 GT
Hi,

I was checking my suspension to find issues and it seems I can hear a metal noise on the tie rod on the black square in the picture. I also notice that I can move the yellow part with my hand. Is that normal that i can move it? If not, might as well replace it?

Any other recommendations on what to check? I already replaced my control arm recently.

alex tie rod.jpeg
 
That's a sway bar link. The ball joint(s) SHOULD be movebale left-to-right by hand, but there shouldn't be noticeable play if you force the sway bar itsef up or down with a pry bar. They are very quick swap, and there are cheap, decent aftermarket sources. See RockAuto.
 
Thanks for the response. I was wondering if tie rods are easy to replace as well. Trying to learn to do this myself. I got some basic tools
 
Thanks for the response. I was wondering if tie rods are easy to replace as well. Trying to learn to do this myself. I got some basic tools
If you look up Chris Fix's YouTube videos, he has one on replacing tie rods. I replaced mine on a different car years ago, both sides then took it to a shop for alignment.
 
Hi,

I was checking my suspension to find issues and it seems I can hear a metal noise on the tie rod on the black square in the picture. I also notice that I can move the yellow part with my hand. Is that normal that i can move it? If not, might as well replace it?

Any other recommendations on what to check? I already replaced my control arm recently.
I recently replaced my end links at 57,000 miles. The nuts take a 14mm socket. I used needle nose vise grips to grip the ball (remove the rubber boot or pop off the end to completely expose the ball to grip it) otherwise the ball and stud will turn when trying to loosen the nut. The top nuts face outward and are easy to access the nut. I held the ball and used an impact driver to zip the nut off. The bottom nuts face inward and I accessed them as shown in the attached video. There are other youtube videos on this as well.


Naturally the rod should be able to be rotated left and right about the vertical axis but there should be zero play in the ball and socket. Mine was able to be pushed in and out of the socket and the boot was torn and leaked greased. And it was the source of a constant clunking over even small bumps. Only one out of the 4 joints was bad (lower right) but I changed both links.
 
Thanks for the steps on how to replaced it. Just waiting for the parts now. Do i need a torque wrench to tighten the boot part nut?
 
Thanks for the steps on how to replaced it. Just waiting for the parts now. Do i need a torque wrench to tighten the boot part nut?
If I recall correctly, I tightened them to 32 ft-lbs with my torque wrench. Also, I ordered new nuts along with the links because I didn't know if I was going to have to cut them off with a cutting wheel. The original nuts are a lock nut which made them harder to remove and their grip on the stud caused the stud to turn while trying to remove them hence the vise-grips. The new nuts (also Mazda OEM part) were not lock nuts and went on easy and snugged up nicely without the need to hold the stud. The end of the stud can be held with an allen wrench (4 mm I believe). The nuts and stud were M10- 1.25 thread.
 
If I recall correctly, I tightened them to 32 ft-lbs with my torque wrench. Also, I ordered new nuts along with the links because I didn't know if I was going to have to cut them off with a cutting wheel. The original nuts are a lock nut which made them harder to remove and their grip on the stud caused the stud to turn while trying to remove them hence the vise-grips. The new nuts (also Mazda OEM part) were not lock nuts and went on easy and snugged up nicely without the need to hold the stud. The end of the stud can be held with an allen wrench (4 mm I believe). The nuts and stud were M10- 1.25 thread.

********** Just remembered to add: while waiting for parts to arrive, you might soak the nuts with some penetrant a few times.
 
I always use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on stuck bolt/nuts. Made sure to soak them multiple times over the coarse of an hour or so. Then I use a breaker bar to brake them loose. Sometime i if It was really stuck I would tighten the bolt spray more of the PB blaster/liquid wrench. Let it sit for a little and it came off easier.
 
I am in the process of replacing the sway bar links and noticed my 2016 cx-5 grand touring does not have teh dampers listed on the specs. Did yours? Hard to see how they add much value, but if they will reduce noise and vibration I'll do it. Thoughts?
 
Back