CX-5 Dash full of Christmas lights...Help

Wife decided to T Bone someone in her 7 month old car. Replaced the front bumper, one headlight, and hood. Wasn't major, but still cost 11K.

Get it back, and one of the other headlights started to get moisture in it. Wife drove it. Then came the AFS warning light on the dash. See image.

Took it back to body shop, they put in a new headlight. Cool so two new headlights.

Every time the car starts, the AFS light comes on. If you turn the light stalk to off, then back through all the settings to on it then goes off. However, the headlights dont turn when the wheel turns. Ok so maybe they put in a wrong headlight. Whatever.

Now, I noticed this happening in the video.



What the epic heck? Can an AFS sensor MIL make this stuff happen? I also had the windshield replaced today and re-calibrated. I only noticed the video stuff after the windshield. This is like a big can of worms.

I know i know... take it to the dealer. Been there. No one has ideas so I want to pick your brains.
 

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also just had the windshield replaced. could they have messed up connecting a heated wiper or rain sensor etc? or could it be related to the AFS still. can't imaging the AFS would cause the HVAC stuff to go nuts. can imagine a messed up windshield would.
 
IMO, you're never going to get an answer to your vehicle's issue(s) here, or anywhere else, without doing hands-on, diagnostic testing. It's nothing but guesswork without testing.

If you're planning on trying to DIY, then start by finding out what DTCs have been set, and then start doing electrical testing based on those codes. But if you're not up for that, then find a good auto-electric shop - preferably one that's been in business for a long time.
 
well, that's one opinion. the reason one asks is b/c maybe someone has had a similar experience and can be like "oh yea windshield people did that to me" or "body shop used wrong headlight" etc..

Right now codes/faults/symptoms/diag. I know that much.


The problem I have is the there are no modules to throw DTC codes for a center consol flashing lights. What I have done for that so far is disconnected the 20a fuse to the heated wipers. Made no difference. If thinking logically that fuse isn't even energized until a button is pressed on the dash triggering a relay somewhere. So if they messed up the heated wiper, one would not know until they used the wipers. The auto rain sensor, that I don't know much about. No fuse to it.





AFS/ALM (Adaptive Front Lighting System/Auto Leveling Module) FAULT
DTC B1D01:13 (general) [AUTO LEVELING CONTROL MODULE]
Additional Fault Symptom: Circuit Open
DTC Codes:
B1D01:13-8A
B1D01:13-48




DTCs are stored in the electrical supply unit (ESU).
Headlight LO (RH) circuit malfunction

Front combination light (RH) connector or terminal malfunction
Auto leveling control module connector or terminal malfunction
Short to ground in wiring harness between auto leveling control module terminal H and front combination light (RH) terminal N
Open circuit in wiring harness between auto leveling control module terminal H and front combination light (RH) terminal N
Front combination light (RH) malfunction
Auto leveling control module malfunction
 
Problem is.... i dont even know where the auto leveling control module is. Mazda is telling me it is sealed inside the headlight. headlight has three plugs on the back i believe. wife has the car atm.
 
First off, although you didn't provide your vehicle year, "7 month old", sounds like it's probably 2022. So a disclaimer that anything that I'm looking at with my 2020 might not be the same as yours.

The auto leveling module on mine is supposed to be located in the lower left dash area. However, I've never had to mess with anything related to that, so I can't confirm what the doc is saying.

But even before trying to locate/inspect the actual physical module and its connector/wiring, you might be able to pull some useful OBD information from it, if you have an advanced Mazda-enabled scan tool. The module name is AFS/ALM, and there's a collection of PIDs which are produced from that module. There are a couple of power supply PIDs, along with some others that might help diagnose why it's setting that code.
 
This is unique problem to your vehicle after the accident.

You may not have had a dealer body shop available to you. this is one reason I use dealer body shop for any body work during car warranty.

That being said, as I'm not electrical expert, my steps would be to have my local mechanic look at it for no/nominal charge. Then as @edmaz suggested off to the auto-electric shop in the next town for a pay for diagnosis.

Once I have diagnosis, submit to insurance company and make them get the body shop to fix it or withhold payment(if body shop messed up) or get insurance
company to pay for extra repairs at the auto-electric shop which were caused by accident.

The $$ spent at the auto-electric shop diagnosis is well worth the time and aggravation spent trying to determine what's wrong. Plus the auto-electric shop would provide documentation of what needs fixed which you could use with insurance company to have included as part of the claim.

The longer you wait trying to figure it out yourself, the harder it will be to claim repairs under insurance.

Also, did you think about having insurance send the adjuster back out ?
 
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Are we sure if the control module is broken or it simply needs to be re-calibrated?
 
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