CX-5 Class III Hitch available

Was happy with my Yakima rack's clearance, something I could never do with my Wrangler... use the rear gate with the hitch on. I don't think I'd ever opt for the 1.25" hitch... just for limitations with bike racks.
With bike rack

I just want to confirm what you are saying. With the Hidden Hitch Class III and Yakima rack, you can open the hatch with the bike rack on? Is that with the bike rack in the upright position or do you have to lower the rack to gain access? I am interested because I am looking at the Thule T2 bottom mounted bike carrier because I want to be able to open the hatch with bikes loaded. If it opens with the carrier up, I already have a Thule Hitching Post which has about the same clearance as your Yakima and don't need to get the T2.
 
installed and it works great. Only issue I have is when I have my bike rack on the back with bikes...I will trigger my BSM all the time.
 
installed and it works great. Only issue I have is when I have my bike rack on the back with bikes...I will trigger my BSM all the time.

Are you saying that it does trigger it, or you think it will trigger it? The radar zones for the BSM are not behind the car - they are in the rear quarter panels and "scan" back and to the left and back and to the right - basically behind the car, but in the lane on either side. Something directly behind the car (ie another car) will not trigger the BSM. I doubt that your bikes on the rack would either.
 
Well, I am moving back to CA soon and possibly towing; I discovered that U-Haul offers the Drawtite hitch and a wiring harness for the cx-5. So, if you want to have them install say just the wiring or just the hitch or both (or get a warranty on labor) you can check them out.
 
I just want to confirm what you are saying. With the Hidden Hitch Class III and Yakima rack, you can open the hatch with the bike rack on? Is that with the bike rack in the upright position or do you have to lower the rack to gain access? I am interested because I am looking at the Thule T2 bottom mounted bike carrier because I want to be able to open the hatch with bikes loaded. If it opens with the carrier up, I already have a Thule Hitching Post which has about the same clearance as your Yakima and don't need to get the T2.

Late reply to this but any hitch mounted bike rack will need to fold down to allow access to the rear hatch. A tray style hitch (T2, Yakima Holdup) will allow you to access the hatch with the bikes loaded, where as with a Mast/Hanging style (Hitching Post, Yakima DoubleDown) you'll need to take the bikes off to fold the mount.

Here's a couple of pics with my 29er and pretty wide bars on a Yakima HoldUp (1 1/4 Class II Curt).
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IMG_20130507_101030_463.jpg

IMG_20130507_101003_221.jpg
IMG_20130507_100728_856.jpg
 
Didn't know Uhaul would do installs. Do you know on average what they charge?



Well, I am moving back to CA soon and possibly towing; I discovered that U-Haul offers the Drawtite hitch and a wiring harness for the cx-5. So, if you want to have them install say just the wiring or just the hitch or both (or get a warranty on labor) you can check them out.
 
I just got and installed the Yakima Double Down Ace (2 bike version) on the OEM hitch. Nice rack, folds down when no bikes installed. Silver to match my CX-5 :)

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Class 3 hitch must be a bit heavier than class one.

etrailer.com has Curt class 2 and 3 available to buy, they don't say how much weight they are though.
But the Class 2 holds 350lbs, the Class 3 holes 525lbs.
 
etrailer.com has Curt class 2 and 3 available to buy, they don't say how much weight they are though.
But the Class 2 holds 350lbs, the Class 3 holes 525lbs.

The max rated tongue weight for a CX-5 would be 300 lbs. This means the heavier class III hitch would actually have slightly less rated capacity than the OEM class II hitch (300 lbs. Minus the additional weight of the class III hitch).

You would have to have a lot of over weight bicycles to even concern yourself with the weight ratings but I just don't see the point in putting a hitch on that is heavier and far exceeds the vehicles tow capacity. The hitches are already rated conservatively so even a class II hitch provides a large margin of safety.
 
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The max rated tongue weight for a CX-5 would be 300 lbs. This means the heavier class III hitch would actually have slightly less rated capacity than the OEM class II hitch (300 lbs. Minus the additional weight of the class III hitch).

You would have to have a lot of over weight bicycles to even concern yourself with the weight ratings but I just don't see the point in putting a hitch on that is heavier and far exceeds the vehicles tow capacity. The hitches are already rated conservatively so even a class II hitch provides a large margin of safety.

Thanks, I didn't realize cars have their own max tongue weight (first car I have with a hitch), Good thing I just ordered the Class II Curt a few minutes ago.
 
Just installed Curt 13127 Class 3 Trailer Hitch. I had no helper available, but I was able to put it on by myself.

I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)of pliers to remove 4 rubber hangers + some WD40.

I really like the fact that only the 2" receiver is visible and the rest is hidden. $136 delivered from Amazon (Seller: Trends-Auto).
 
Anyone try the Class III hidden hitch model? I'm looking at a local shop to get a hitch and bike rack. They recommended the hidden hitch (about $290) and the Yakima Double Down Ace bike rack ($300) so in total, including installation and taxes $730. I'm currently researching if there are cheaper options out there, but if anyone has any experience with either of these products, please speak up! Thanks!

**Edit, just saw some of the posts about the double down, looks like a nice rack. I'm a bit concerned about visibility out the rear window and if drivers behind can see signals/brakes, but I guess that probably depends on the bikes and how many, etc.
 
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Anyone try the Class III hidden hitch model? I'm looking at a local shop to get a hitch and bike rack. They recommended the hidden hitch (about $290) and the Yakima Double Down Ace bike rack ($300) so in total, including installation and taxes $730. I'm currently researching if there are cheaper options out there, but if anyone has any experience with either of these products, please speak up! Thanks!

**Edit, just saw some of the posts about the double down, looks like a nice rack. I'm a bit concerned about visibility out the rear window and if drivers behind can see signals/brakes, but I guess that probably depends on the bikes and how many, etc.

The Curts are easier to install and personally I think looks better than the Hidden Hitch brand and also a lot more one piece. Curt is also cheaper also more people have bought the Cuts.
As for Yakima Double Down is nice, but Yakima/Thule are super expensive also you need to spend more because they don't come with locks, cables, etc.

But $140 for installation? Seriously dude. If you know how to tighten a wrench, you can install the hitch with a friend in about an hour. And that's an overestimation. I did mine in 30minutes.
As with visibility, the CX-5 does have a third brake light like all cars.

Personally I got the Curt Class II (I should have gotten the Class III, more options for 2" hitch) and the Rola 3 Bike carrier: http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Bike-Racks/Rola/59403.html
The Class III hitches have anti sway systems, Class II doesn't so the Rola on my Class II wiggles and moves around. But I guess it's meant to do that.
Got them both from eTrailer.com
 
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