2017~2025 CX-5 Bypass Voltage Regulator?

If you bypass the regulator, what makes you think you'll have any voltage control at all? I had a stock pickup that would run the battery up to 16V sometimes.

I *think* the ECU controlls the alternator. Perhaps Orangevirus can reflash your ECU to run a few tenths more.
 
If you bypass the regulator, what makes you think you'll have any voltage control at all? I had a stock pickup that would run the battery up to 16V sometimes.

I *think* the ECU controlls the alternator. Perhaps Orangevirus can reflash your ECU to run a few tenths more.
This is what I’m trying to find.
 
2018 CX-5 2.5L Non-Turbo
Has anyone tried bypassing the voltage regulator to charge at a constant 14.4V? Some cars it is as easy as unplugging the plug from the alternator...I'd like to try this myself, but I'm hesitating because I'm currently running a headway lithium bank in the back instead of a standard AGM battery and it can not take a charge over 14.8V without possibly becoming a back seat bomb lol. Pretty sure our max charge voltage is 14.4V but not sure if it COULD be higher with the plug unplugged...
Hello, im trying to see if you also figured out on how to run a high output alternator correctly. I’m also in the market for a high output alternator but trying to see if it will work
 
Hello, im trying to see if you also figured out on how to run a high output alternator correctly. I’m also in the market for a high output alternator but trying to see if it will work
I have finally. Stock, the car does not like anything over 14.6v, so whoever is making the alt needs to use a Toyota 14.4v regulator. With a higher voltage, the car will throw codes and go into limp mode too often.
 
Maybe I don't understand something here, but alternators aren't designed to run full output continuously. It might have a shorter lifespan than you estimate. And what about overcharging the battery? That's one function of the voltage regulator to prevent overcharge. I remember seeing batteries with swelled sides and hearing them bubble as they "cooked" due to a faulty voltage regulator. Like I said, maybe I don't understand but to me it sounds like trouble ahead.
 
Maybe I don't understand something here, but alternators aren't designed to run full output continuously. It might have a shorter lifespan than you estimate. And what about overcharging the battery? That's one function of the voltage regulator to prevent overcharge. I remember seeing batteries with swelled sides and hearing them bubble as they "cooked" due to a faulty voltage regulator. Like I said, maybe I don't understand but to me it sounds like trouble ahead.
My car has no regular batteries, and runs on lithium. But, max charge on AGM batteries is 14.8-15v depending on the battery, so they will not be overcharged. My alternator has been running full field for almost a year without issue, but with what I’ve done with the car having to change an alternator sooner isn’t any real concern of mine. I’m actually changing the alternator again now (though it isn’t needed) for an alternator with an external regulator (for adjustable voltage by dial) so I can test some theories on how to get past the limp mode being triggered by high voltage in the CX-5. I am already PCM bypassed, so the car no longer controls my voltage. It has been locked at 14.6v all the time for about a year.
 
I must know how you did this with the Toyota regulator, about to install 2-12s in my son cx-5 and would like to see the alternator charging at 14.4v constantly. Please help.:)
 
I must know how you did this with the Toyota regulator, about to install 2-12s in my son cx-5 and would like to see the alternator charging at 14.4v constantly. Please help.:)
I've long since this post beat this charging systems butt lol. Send me a DM. I'm currently running a 250a alt at 15.7v with 87ah of SCIB LTO.
 

Attachments

  • 20250517_095241.webp
    20250517_095241.webp
    292.7 KB · Views: 34
If you are running a Lithium auxiliary battery, why wouldn’t you simply do what everyone in the 4WD and RV world does, and use a DC/DC charger between the FLA starting battery and the lithium auxiliary??

They work perfectly for charging lithium aux batteries on cars with modern smart alternators like CX5 has.
 
If you are running a Lithium auxiliary battery, why wouldn’t you simply do what everyone in the 4WD and RV world does, and use a DC/DC charger between the FLA starting battery and the lithium auxiliary??

They work perfectly for charging lithium aux batteries on cars with modern smart alternators like CX5 has.
Because I'm pulling closer to 2000a from a bank with a 75C rating on a car that only has room for a single alternator. A buck converter cant support near that amount of power.
 
Back