2017~2025: CX-5 Brake Fluid Change Questions

[brownbearuva]

Greetings all. I was all set to (DIY) change my brake fluid out (2020 CX-5) when I did my last oil change. I was planning on following ChrisFix’s method of using a Gatorade bottle and a tube. However, I ran into two issues that I was hoping to gain some insight on:

1. Pretty simple, but I didn’t have the proper wrench size for the brake line nipples on my wheels. Does anyone happen to know what size wrench I’ll need/is it worth getting a flare nut style wrench?

2. I couldn’t fit a turkey baster in the main reservoir to suck out the old fluid, due to the long-necked shape of the reservoir. Can anyone recommend a way to suck out as much of the old fluid as possible?

Thanks in advance— I couldn’t find any information about these items from a cursory search. Also open to any general advice or tips y’all may have for doing the brake flush.

 

[RokkuAni]

OK I both my Mazda last year.. My best advice, go old school. Don't buy those $20 kits, pump. The fitting won't work. I went through 2 of it.

Get a small Gatorade bottle, 1/4 in. I.D. x 3/8 in. O.D. x 20 ft. Clear Vinyl Tubing. Cost me $7 buck at home depot. And one of those cords to hang bottle high

1) I think I just use small adjustable wrench. It's very small in size, so it's hard. Don't over tighten it.

2) Even a blaster won't go all the way in. You can some lint free towel and drain it. Or better yet, just flush it all the way out. Break fluid is cheap...$5 for largest size... You want each line to bleed clean. Check my photo out. What you want is to cycle new through each line...I got so much leftover from a large bottle still. I'm keeping it in case need for something, but you can't keep open brake fluid too long. It WILL absorb moisturizer. I have special bin.

3) check out at least 3 YouTube video. Remember to bleed in order...

4) bonus tip I went through 7 major brands so brake pads. So far oem Mazda last the longest for me. Rotor wise, oem has the anti rust with salt thing. So if you swapping to 3rd party.. It can be cheaper. But if you upgrade to "high end with salt protection"... Oem Mazda is better.

 

[AL Cx5]

If you have an air compressor, this vacuum brake kit it the ticket. I use it to vacuum the excess fluid from the reservoir and then the brakes. It's quick and contains all the fluid. I use it for other fluids I want to remove as well.

Most imports bleeder valves are 8mm. I use an 8mm box wrench 90% of the time. A set of box wrenches can be had cheap these days. It's not worth the risk of rounding off a bleeder valve. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

When bleeding or flushing brakes, I use this device and for the final check, I still have my wife press the brake pedal to get those last few air bubbles. She presses the peddle about half way and holds until I shut off the bleeder valve.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[Gozo]

A set of box wrenches can be had cheap these days. It's not worth the risk of rounding off a bleeder valve.

I worry less about rounding off the hex head of the bleeder valve and more about twist shearing it off. I’ve done that more than once and wound up replacing the whole caliper. About due for the first brake flush in the Mazda. A squirt of WD-40 maybe the day before?

 

[AL Cx5]

I worry less about rounding off the hex head of the bleeder valve and more about twist shearing it off. I’ve done that more than once and wound up replacing the whole caliper. About due for the first brake flush in the Mazda. A squirt of WD-40 maybe the day before?

I don't live in an area that treats the roads with salt and other chemicals in the winter. So don't I have corrosion issues.

If your calipers and bleeder valves are corroded, pretreating them makes perfect sense. I mix up a 50/50 solution of acetone and ATF and spray it on suspect threads works very well.

Also applying heat and gently tapping stuck stuck threads often loosens. I have one of those small butane torches for this purpose. This is like welding a bolt to a broken stud/bolt on an engine block. The heat does most of the work.

Knowing when to stop and try another method is the ticket.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)