custom enclosure plans?

M

mazdarx7power

Member
i'm planning to do my own fiberglass enclosure i drew a pic of it on ms paint just to get some general opinions or suggestions on changes that would be good. the mdf i was thinking of only going as high as 4 inches in height for the subs area and than make the amp rack and blend the fiberglass into the amp rack. now i've seen people use the wood rods to hold up the 12" molds for the subs.
1. would i just basically fiberglass around it with a couple layers and blend it all together with the molds or would i wrap the rods in a tube like form kinda like bazooka's and than form more fiberglass on top to form the enclosure??

2. also would i need anything special to cut plexiglass i was planning to close off the amp with it. also where the mazda sign are and the protege are going to be shaved into the mdf there and probably wrapped in that pleather material. also gonna have some blue neons under the mazda sign and protege to shine through because the amp i'm getting has a blue led on it.

3. also which way should i face the subs?? should i invert them?? which angle should i place them at angling towards the trunk or angling towards each other? subs are going to be 2 12" infinity kappa, think they'll sound good in a custom??
any suggestions and help is greatly appreciated.
 

Attachments

2 Subs Infiniti Kapper Perfect 12.1
Sensitivity: 96 dB
RMS Power Range : 75-350 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 1400 Watts
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Low Frequency response: 18 Hz
High Frequency Response: 200 Hz
Diameter: 12 Inch
Power range: 75-350 watts RMS
Peak power: 1,400 watts
Frequency response: 18-200 Hz
Sensitivity: 96 dB

Don't give them more than 350W

1. I would make it all as one complete unit out of fiberglass.
2. not sure
3. don't invert thema nd aim them towards the roof or the front with ports int he back. should sound good as long as the deminsions are right.

Are you going to tune the enclosure for completition or street use?

Check out www.caraudio.com they have a fiberglass how to.

You may find this helpful also: http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

(cheers) (thumb)
 
nah just street use maybe in like a year or so may take it to the comps but needs cosmetic work. the amp i'm getting for them pushes 370w to each sub so should push them pretty good.
 
First off, I suggest reading up on fiberglassing. Search this site, car audio sites, and the web for keywords such as "fiberglass subwoofer box".

Once you think you have a grasp of how it's done, try making a little test project. This will help you learn how quickly the fiberglass cures and how messy it can be.

When you are ready, go back to the drawing board and redesign your system. Box volume is very important, especially if you want to make a ported box. Take lots of measurements and figure out a design that will work for your trunk. The designs you see in magazines are the result of 100s of hours of work by trained professionals. Don't expect this to be a weekend project.

One issue I see with your current design is that it doesn't appear to be big enough to incorporate the air space required for 2 12" subwoofers or the depth of the magnet structure (well if you invert the sub that isn't an issue I guess). You will probably have to use the space in the spare tire well if you don't want the subs to stick up too far. That will affect their location.

A more common approach is to mount the subwoofers perpendicular to the floor so they fire straight back towards the back of the car. Then you use the spare tire well to house your amplifiers. The reason this design is popular is because it works...it gives the subs plenty of airspace and still leaves you with useable trunk space.
 
the box isnt going to be a straight up and down square, the blue section is the fiberglass i'm planning to build the sub areas alot higher than the sides of the mdf board. yea i was planning to aim the subs towards the back at an angle close to facing the back spoiler.

question though should i put at least two 3" holes in the back or should the whole enclosure be sealed??
 
There is a science to ported enclosures...or any enclosure for that matter...you don't just cut holes and expect it to work. The box volume has to be precise and the ports have to be a specific diameter and length. Stay away from ported unless you are prepared to do alot more work.

As for your design...take a look at some of the installs in the link below. It will give you a good idea of what can be done in a trunk with 2 12" subwoofers.

http://www.carstereo.com/installs/rate_installs.cfm
 
kinda something like this but more of a curve going towards back seats and only one amp.
352087_15_full.jpg
 

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those are actually pretty decent, the only thing i was worried about was the spare i wanted to keep it in there. but that design is pretty nice.

i do have one question though would i build the enclosure up from mdf or would i only use mdf for the base and use fiberglass for the rest, or would i use mdf all the way to the top and cover it in fiberglass??

i added a pic above that you had post chy before, i actually like that setup but want more of a rounder look to it.
 
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Access to the spare tire with any of these designs is not easy. In most cases, it would require a 30 minutes to an hour to pull everything out and get underneath.

The bazooka install is pretty feasible. You could do that except make the face of the box out of fiberglass to give it a more curvy look. However, that box doesn't look big enough for 2 twelves. Its hard to eye things but I would say it's only 1.5cuft.
 
theres ways to keep the spare -- mines not fiberglass or as pretty, But its 100% functional.


edit-- and i can change my spare in 5 minutes :)
 
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Nice work Bones! I'm doing something similar in my car...except with 2 8"s and the box will be supported by the sides of the hatch the same way that the factory cargo tray was. I'm keeping the weight down by using fiberglass and 1/2" birch ply where possible.
 
how would i measure how many cuft the enclosure is??

also were can i get fiberglass at, went to home depot the other day and just happen to check they said no??


chuyler1 said:
Access to the spare tire with any of these designs is not easy. In most cases, it would require a 30 minutes to an hour to pull everything out and get underneath.

The bazooka install is pretty feasible. You could do that except make the face of the box out of fiberglass to give it a more curvy look. However, that box doesn't look big enough for 2 twelves. Its hard to eye things but I would say it's only 1.5cuft.
Click to expand...
 
For small amounts, try the automotive section at Walmart. For large amounts, try www.selectproducts.com. You can order the vinyl, carpet, and other stuff from them also.

If you don't know how to measure cuft...I really don't think box building is going to be your forte.
 
bonesmp5 said:
theres ways to keep the spare -- mines not fiberglass or as pretty, But its 100% functional.


edit-- and i can change my spare in 5 minutes :)
Click to expand...

Very nice job,on that. I like it.
 
chuyler1 said:
For small amounts, try the automotive section at Walmart. For large amounts, try www.selectproducts.com. You can order the vinyl, carpet, and other stuff from them also.

If you don't know how to measure cuft...I really don't think box building is going to be your forte.
Click to expand...

That web site is kick ass. (thumb)
 
different subs require different airspace, you also have to figure in the displacement of the sub and the port when figureing the right amount of airspace, you don't have to have it exact if you need say 1.75 you can do like 1.73 to 1.77 boxes can be built to suit different sounds if you don't know what your doing you should go to your locale stereo shop and get price's cause by the time you by all your materials and try to build it it might be cheaper in the long run. when i first started building boxes it took a few trys to get it right. i have an 04 mazda 3 hatch my box is done so i can lay the back seats down slide box up and get to spare...
 
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